Front Suspension Creak When Turning Steering Wheel Help..Pic & 2min Vid

slow&rusty · 02-27-2011, 06:04 PM

Hi Gang - I have a new development in the arthritis department and would appreciate some help \ assistance...I noticed that when I turn the steering wheel I hear a very distinct creaking.

I slid under the car tonight and the only thing I saw out of place was the right side torsion bar adjuster is VERY loose fore and aft and also up and down, the left side is tight like a button no movement at all. This is with the car jacked up and no weight on the front suspension.

Can you please chime in and let me know what might be worn out, all other suspension busings from my inspection under the car tonight look to be OK.

Here is the 2min YouTube Video I shot explaining the issue and 1 picture:

YouTube - AMBA0002

My car is an '89 with 60K.

Many thanks!
Yasin

rusnak · 02-27-2011, 06:20 PM

The wheel bearings might be out of adjustment. I don't know about the height adjustment. If the squeaking occurs when going over bumps, then you might have worn a-arm bushings. Might as well pull the torsion bar and look for wear.

cgibson67 · cgibson67's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusnak

Might as well pull the torsion bar and look for wear.

Will this require an alignment/corner balance after the bar is put back but nothing changed?

rusnak · 02-27-2011, 07:02 PM

Normally you'd measure the amount of thread on the adjusting bolt first. His might be miles off already though.

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

No alignment will not be effected, just note the height then unbolt the height adjustment bolt and removed end cap the t bar will come out if not rusted in.

Also not the position of the end cap before removing.

Before that make sure those loose bolts are torqued properly on the ground, it must be on the ground for the proper torque specs, specs in Bentley.

Oh snap, just saw you vid, Ok that bushing is gone. there should be zero movement as in your driver side busing.

Remove as stated above to see what is up, just note everything so you can put it together properly.

slow&rusty · 02-27-2011, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

No alignment will not be effected, just note the height then unbolt the height adjustment bolt and removed end cap the t bar will come out if not rusted in.

Also not the position of the end cap before removing.

Before that make sure those loose bolts are torqued properly on the ground, it must be on the ground for the proper torque specs, specs in Bentley.

Oh snap, just saw you vid, Ok that bushing is gone. there should be zero movement as in your driver side busing.

Remove as stated above to see what is up, just note everything so you can put it together properly.

Thank-you for your response!!!! I figured the torsion bar bushing is completely gone but thought I would confirm. I appreciate the quick response and glad the video assisted in diagnosing the problem.
My best - Yasin

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

No probelmo, also you need to remove sway bar so the end cap will slide out.

I recently upgraded to Rebel Racing Bushings, those OEM bushing are easy to remove with a torch. Lucky you only need to struggle with the driver side.

slow&rusty · 02-28-2011, 04:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

No probelmo, also you need to remove sway bar so the end cap will slide out.

I recently upgraded to Rebel Racing Bushings, those OEM bushing are easy to remove with a torch. Lucky you only need to struggle with the driver side.

Draco - Are Rebel Racing Bushings available from our host?
Thanks - Yasin

Flieger · Flieger's Garage

Yes.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-RSR-FRBSH

Chuck Moreland · 02-28-2011, 09:01 PM

I assume both wheels are in the air at full droop when you shot the video. The behavior of the adjusters suggest your corner balance is whacked. Clearly someone has made adjustments at some point, and they likely didn't corner weight it properly.

This may be causing the noise.

Get the car onto a set of scales to measure corner weight.

The nuts securing the crossmember brace are loose. Perhaps you did this in your exploration and you didn't drive it like this, but if not - that would certainly make noise.

Porboynz · Porboynz's Garage

I agree with Chuck that the corner weight is out left to right but that movement is normal when all the load is taken off the adjuster. The adjuster positions the end of the torsion bar and with no load it does flop about. To check the A arm bushes you need to get in with a pry bar and see if there is any movement in the actual A arm front and rear where the bushes are. It all comes apart real easy (if the torsion bar is not corroded in position) Simply unscrew the adjuster nut, remove the adjuster and voila, out comes the torsion bar. In fact I would say that you need to back off the adjuster nut on the LHS as well if you are to check those A arm bushes as well. With the tension of the torsion bar removed it should be easier to note any A arm bush movement. Finding these creaks is hard work, I had nylon bushes in my 911 when it was on the racetrack and they creaked like crazy, so I recommend anything but solid bushes for the road if you need to replace them. It may be they have been replaced in the past and they need relubricating. Well, thats my experience for what its worth.

rusnak · 02-28-2011, 10:09 PM

I think it bears repeating - check wheel bearing adjustment. Car on the ground of course. Races slopping around will cause that too.

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

Check his video, it almost looks like the bushing is totally gone.

Chuck Moreland · 03-01-2011, 12:37 AM

The movement of the cap is not so unusual for an unloaded suspension in full droop. It is the left side that is still in tension (not moving) that throws the red flag.

Neither is an indication of a bushing problem, however if the bushes are original they certainly need replacing.

rusnak · 12:44 AM

He was moving the t-bar though. I admit that I don't run torsion bars, but they ride inside the a-arm. The arm itself can be tight - the OP never checked it. I was thinking "?" when I saw the vid. And since the noise is desribed as creaking when turning, sounds like front bearings.

The t-bar is tight when the adjuster pre-loads it IIRC? Just throwing this out there before the guy buys parts then gets possibly disappointed. Not trying to be a pain.

--Edit-- Chuck must've posted his when I was typing on Chiklet keys on my phone. I defer to him.

slow&rusty · 03-01-2011, 04:47 AM

Hi Guys - Thanks for chiming (Chuck, Draco, Porboynz, Rusnak et al), in the video yes both wheels are off the ground and no load on the suspension. The bushings on the car are 100% original and have never been changed and I will definitely check them for slop \ wear.

As Chuck noted the left side is very much in tension while the right side is very loosey goosey.

The nuts securing the cross brace are loose (good eye) ony due to me removing the metal shield under the steering rack as I was poking around before I shot the video.
Thanks so much!
Yasin

rusnak · 03-01-2011, 07:18 AM

Those particular bolts only hold the front part of the steering plate on. The two rear bolts that also mount the swaybar to the body are the important ones. I mean from a structural point of view. Forgive if I'm stepping on toes.

hpaull · 03-03-2011, 09:47 PM

I recently got a "creaking" sound in the front after an autocross. Pushed on the wheels to see if the bearings where loose and the front right one had loosened up. Adjusted it back and the noise went away. May be worth a shot first as it will be a lot easier of a fix, if it is the problem, then pulling apart your whole front suspension.

As a side note I thought it was my bushings too at first. After I did the wheel bearing adjustment I went to the shop I go to to have the bushings checked out since I did not know their condition, and all my bushings were good.