Are turbo tie rods worth the effort?

[autobonrun]

I've searched the threads and would like to know what makes the turbo tie rods so much better? Is the steering that much crisper or is it like going from 200HP to 202HP, you know it's there but can't feel it.

Before I align the car from all the previous work, I'd like to make this modification if it's that much better.

79SC

[Tyson Schmidt]

It is definitely noticeable. But it really is one of those upgrades best left for when your old ones need replacing anyway. Not really worth it unless the old ones are worn out.

[targa88]

Yes,
Given the age of your car, if it still has the OEM parts - they could be replaced. At the same time - of you are lowering the car - install a bump steer kit. Then have it aligned and corner balanced.
Nice, simple, efficient improvement.

[Clark Griswald]

I think the answer is - it depends.

If you have worn out tie rods, then yes definitely do.

If you have tightened up the rest of your suspension with bushings, shocks, adjusted bearings, properly adjusted steering rack, good ball joints, set ride height, then yes definitely do.

If you have a tired old suspension and don't plan on doing these other elements, then save your money.

The turbos add some precision and feedback, but don't compensate for an otherwise sloppy suspension.

[autobonrun]

Within the last 3 months I've installed new Bilstein Sports and 21mm Weltmeister torsion bars and new bushings. The steering rack was replaced about 2 years ago. Ride height is at 24.5 in the front and 25.5 in the rear. Overall the suspension is tight. The car has been lowered but does not have a bump steer kit. I'll recheck and focus on the tie rods to see if there is any looseness. Not that I'm complaining but it may be another 10 years before the originals wear out. Sounds like this upgrade along with the turbo tie rods may be in order. The point about waiting for the old ones to fail is a good one and I'll need to decide whether spending this money is really worth it at this time if the current ones are functional.

However, the tools for pulling the tie rods and those for replacing them are almost 2/3 the cost of the tie rods themselves. Did you guys just use the tools you have available or buy these specialty tools? Are they really necessary?

[Clark Griswald]

I've done it without any special tools...twice. It is not very difficult.

[Vipergrün]

Autobonrun, you indicated your ride height is Ride is at 24.5 in the front and 25.5 in the rear.

Euro spec is 25.5 front and 25.0 rear. Did you make a typo? If not, you probably want the front to be a bit higher than the rear. Just a thought.

cheers
-Brad
80SC

[wacky73t]

Where do you measure the ride height from? ground to somewhere in the fender or what exactly. I know you could just pick any 2 points the same on front and back but where is spec from?

[marcesq]

Measure from the ground to the highest point of the arc created by your wheel well in a straight line. (ruler against center cap of wheel should suffice).

[autobonrun]

Originally posted by bb80sc
Autobonrun, you indicated your ride height is Ride is at 24.5 in the front and 25.5 in the rear.

Euro spec is 25.5 front and 25.0 rear. Did you make a typo? If not, you probably want the front to be a bit higher than the rear. Just a thought.

cheers
-Brad
80SC

You are right. I had a typo. The numbers are reversed. You reminded me that I hadn't measured the height since I had changed to Bilstein shocks last month. The actuals came in at 25.25 front and 24.25 rear measuring to the highest point. These measurements are on the passenger side. The rear is considerably below the Euro spec you listed, however it does not rub and I like the look. I notice that the driver side is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher than the passenger side. I'll try to get the sides closer when I do the balance.