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Registered
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Distributor cap & wires question
Dumb question, but feel there is merit asking:
1. When replacing a rotor and cap, I assume the whole works should be assembled "dry", e.g. - no dielectric grease on the rotor. Right? 2. When installing new wires to that cap, these should also be "dry"? For reference, this is a 1985 with 3.2 I'm doing a cyl head temp sensor, new cap & rotor and Clewett wires. PO history is unclear - but from the little I know, none of this stuff has been done for a long time. Last year (my first real season with the car) I was able to get the WOT sensor working, throttle linkage adjusted, and did the "adjustment" of the flapper wiper in the air sensor (get the contacts onto a clean part of the strip). Also have new fuel filter, new plugs (copper core), etc... Also put an o-scope on the o2 sensor, and that seems to be ok as-is. So- The current roughness (mainly at idle) is hopefully going to be gone. Can't wait to see the results. Thanks for any input. ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: sectors R&N, SE Pa
Posts: 3,117
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Dry here. no dielectric.
You might want to put a little 3 in 1 oil on the felt pad in the ctr before installing the rotor on top.
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Dan '87 Targa Carrera 3.2 - Fabspeed Cat Bypass, M&K Muffler, SW Chip Venetian Blue |
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John W
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 273
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I like to use a little SIL-GLYDE on the rubber boots where they contact the distributor cap to make it a little easier to get them off the next time.
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----------------------------------- John 89 3.2 Targa 123k miles |
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