Removing Inlet Manifold Studs
 

I'm currently undertaking a project to replace my CIS with PMOs (will post a seperate thread on this). The kit won't arrive for a couple of days yet, but I want to get the car to the point where I can just bolt them on etc.

I understand that the inlet manifold studs on the cylinder heads need to be replaced by longer ones from the PMO kit. I have done a search on both the technical and engine rebuilding forums, but cannot locate a thread that addresses this issue.

My questiuon is, what is the best way to remove the old studs? I have bought a stud removal tool, but the base looks too deep for the head studs. Is it just a matter of applying liberal amounts of heat and then getting into them with a pair of mulit-grips?

I wouldn't use mulit-grips unless I really had to. (broken stud)

You can use tow nuts locked together to get the studs out... Gentle heat only.
You may not even need to use heat as these don't get anywhere near as hot and corroded as the exhaust studs.
Recently I took some studs out of a gear box case and I used this method with no problems.

Good luck with the PMOs.

+1 for using the double nut technique.

Some penetration solvent like PB Blaster in advance can't hurt. Double nut and try to heat the head more so than the stud. Ken

Do you then put a box end wrench on the bottom nut or can you drop a deep well over both?

When I tighten the two nuts I try and line up the flats or the top nut point half way between the flats of the bottom nut...
So a 12 point spanner ring will fit over both nuts either way. Hope that makes sense.

Yep - what I pictured. That should provide plenty of torque to get it out after a little heat.

Double nut and be careful not to drop stuff in the intake.....

I made some little bags full of foam that I stuff in the intake manifold. Picture a big but ugly hacky sack.

It's easy. Just cut a piece of fabric into a 4 inch by 4 inch square. Cut a piece of foam like from and old chair or something into a cube about 2 inches by 2 inches by 2 inches.
Place them in the middle of the cloths and bring the four corners up into the middle.
Tie of with some string...

I store them (I made six) in a plastic bag with my other "home made" Porsche tools. :D

Thanks guys. I have found some rubber chair leg ends that fit perfectly to block the inlet chambers.

I'll give the double-nut approach a try with some gentle heat - would a paint stripping heat gun be sufficient?

Will post my attempts/outcomes in due course.

Sheldon,

It may not be necessary to install the longer studs, I was able to use the stock studs with my pmo's and spacers.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1289158049.jpg

What these guys said. But I would heat around the studs, spray something like PB Blaster at the bases and let them set awhile as you heat around the bases a few more times and add some more penetrating fluid. Sometimes it helps to gently loosen and slightly tighten the stud back & forth if they are contrary. Until you get them moving, don't be too swift to apply too much torque. Sometimes it's good to let them set over night (or more). For me, I would put a very small amount of copper anti-sieze on the new ones.

to "plug the intakes .. I use old dress socks ..
The double nut usually works but try to lock the nuts down the stud not up top .

The studs (well 1/2 of then towards the centerline) often go through the flange into open space ... so the studs dont have to be screwed any deeper than the flange itself.

I did Webers with insulators and didnt need the longer studs

i used blue loctite on new studs

i used permatex gasket sealer [brown crap] for the lower stack of gaskets and manifold only

Shane, thanks for the advice. I think I'll wait until my kit comes through now, before removing the studs. If I can fit the PMOs without having to remove the studs, then this would be an absolute blessing!

By the way, how is your car running on the PMOs? Have you got it set up for street or trak use?

Glad you asked...
 

Check out my video on this thread. I love the PMO's, and I had a fuly working CIS when I switched. No issues at all, set and forget.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/596812-sound-video-preview-m-k-rarlyl8-headers.html