Rear Torsion Plate Bushing Clean Up Question

[ivangene]

so AFTER cleaning up my reat torsion bar plates I got to thinking........

and I searched.....

my question is in regards to the factory corrosion resistant (CAD?) plating on the surface of the parts where the bonded bushing once was. I have seen several "
clean up" pics and it looks like the cad is removed by use of wire wheel or other method.....

borrowed pics:





so am I right? and if so, what is being done to inhibit rust in the future/over time. Should I just grease the things and stick em back in? paint them? any thoughts would be appreciated,

TIA!
Ed

(BTW - removing the rear per the rennlight write up was super easy, no issues and only took a short time - hardest part so far was jacking the car up on 4 points)

[Chuck Moreland]

The right way to do this is to have them re-plated.

CAD plating has been largely regulated out of existence in the US. so the accepted alternative is yellow zinc.

You don't need to strip the CAD. Just remove all the rubber, undercoating, grease and other crude. Completely disassemble. Take them to a specialty plating company. Take all the hardware too. Be sure to have them perform a 'post bake' to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. Else you may have cracks later on.

While you are at it, you might look the car over and find other parts you'd like replated. Typically a plater will charge a minimum regardless of how few parts you take them. You can probably take some additional parts at no extra cost.

[ivangene]

obviouosly NOT removing it "would have been" the best way, but I am passed that point in my brilliant execusion of rubber removal

I guess I have to weigh the cost/time of "doing it right" over some other option....

My guess is the ones in the picture above didnt get re-plated and I am wondering how many opt for that method and what did they do to counteract the intellegent removal of CAD....

darn it !

[Chuck Moreland]

No worries. I said you don't NEED to strip the CAD. You can still get them plated.