This IS what I want how do I get them? I just looked at their site and see a set for $700! I do not htink so.

Also, you calibrate the gauge on the floor where the tire you are working on is and then set it in the tool so how ever the floor is, the gauge compensates for it.

Also they are selling the gauge for $200 and nothing else

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/LAR_78290_Longacre_Digital_Caster_Camber_Gauge/Caster_Camber_Gauges

Another ++ for the Longacre toe plates, just Google them up, lots of places sell them. I patronized one our our local race shops, Smart Racing

As a civil engineer i'm embarrassed/bothered that your whole back yard is concrete! :D Stormwater management/flood prevention gets harder and harder when everybody paves over everything.....

Agreed toe plates are great- especially for the front. Since the front wheels are physically connected and are pivoted by the steering rack, that's what allows you to use the relative measurement of front tire edge distance to rear tire edge distance to get your total toe and go with that number. No need to worry about the toe at each front wheel because the rack automatically shares 1/2 that total toe for each side (assuming all parts like tie rods, rod ends, ball joints are in proper condition).

Toe plates for the rear will give you total toe, but since the rear wheels are independent of each other, you have to check toe at each wheel relative to car/suspension centerline (or your parallel strings) to make sure it's the same at each wheel. For instance you could have 1/8" of total toe-in, but one wheel could have zero toe and the other could have all of the 1/8" of toe-in. Or worse you could have 3/16" toe in on one side and 1/16" of toe out on the other. That's bad......

My Entire Back Yard is 14 feet wide and 32 feet long! I live in the City in a1200 Sq Feet Town House with NO Garage only a Car Port!

My guess is All together (House & Yard) less space than a lot of Board member. Garage & Drive way. ??

I do not need the Toe Plates I need the Plates that allow me to turn the Front wheels while at rest 15 to 20 Degrees to adjust Caster

Make some... get some 1/8 alum plate, or stainless, heck even floor tiles and make a sandwich... put some grease or oil between two pieces and you will have a nearly frictionless turn plate..

We set the cars up on our Hunter Alignment rack at the track minor adjustments are done using toe plates and camber gauges.. stings, etc.

Toe plates are cheap

http://www.proracestore.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_ in_description=1&zenid=mokejkgep85qub6rleccoosbp2& keyword=toe+plates

I have used a long straight 2x4 for quick checks of rear alignment. I use strings to do my setups after major suspension work. When done I hold my special long straight (very old, so no warping) 2x4 against the rear wheel and notice where the other end is at the front wheels.
For quick checks and adjustments I can just use my 2x4 held against the wheels.

TimT
Heard of the floor tile thing before but always thought it wouldn't be the best but after reading your info it just hit me like ton of bricks.
I was fixing the drill yesterday and we changed out an 11" 3 piece ball bearing and I have other used ones, I'm going to use these bearings between some stainless plates and have real fancy swivels, I have corner scales from my racing days so I'm gonna put the swivels up front and some plates at the rear to keep it level.
Sometimes a guy like me needs a slap to start my brain back up, thanks for the slap.
Finn

A guy in NYC made these for $75 which is "Good enough I guess" but I will need to make degrees and locking pins
http://i.ebayimg.com/23/!B++UbLwCWk~...nQ03Q~~_12.JPG
And it is thin!
http://i.ebayimg.com/01/!B++U3WQ!mk~...v1shw~~_12.JPG

One nice thing about digital camber gauges is the fact that they can be zeroed to the surface you are using. For right side measurements, set the unit on the floor (or on something which is itself flat and a foot or more long to deal with minor irregularities), and zero it without reversing its direction. Now it sees a not quite level floor as being level.

Do same when you move to the other side.

Don't have to remember what adjustment to apply to the reading, or what its sign is.

The 3R race shop in Denver (home of Speed World Challenge champions in Porsche and now, of all things, Volvos) has a large steel plate on their shop floor - larger than the plan view outline of a car. In about a one foot or half foot square matrix it has screws recessed into its surface. These allow the guys to true this plate from time to time. Setting your level on the ground isn't going to produce quite the results these guys can come up with.

But it costs a lot less, and you can do it at the track when you find a place which looks to be pretty flat (as opposed to level, which will be hard to find because the paddock needs to drain). Same with your garage floor or driveway - flat is more important than level.

AMEN!!

I ordered mine on a Thursday evening (too late for that days shipping) and still got in on Monday. Opened the Box and the Case, Exactly as Advertised! "BUT" the right side latch Loop was not made perfectly and did not snap shut not to mention Looked crooked. I sent them an e-mail and immediately got a reply to return the case. I sent it FedEx Ground on Tuesday and today Thursday I have the replacement case that is in perfect condition. If they will go this far on the case latch I know they will take care of any "Real" problems. Now I cannot wait to use it.