ohm resistance in 14 pin connector

[Cdnone1]

does anyone have a list of the ohm resistance that I could use to track down a short to ground problem I am having?
I need to check from both the male and female ends at the 14 pin connector
Thanks in advance
Sorry the car is an 82 SC

[aston@ultrasw.c]

not sure i understand your question exactly....

however a short to ground will give you between 0 and .4 ohms. the reading may jump around a little if things are not completely clean.

sorry if that was no help :-)

[mnewport]

If your meter has a beeper function to show continuity, just hold one lead to ground and test for continuity across the pins.

[Cdnone1]

I have disconnected the batteries ground and apply the volt meter to the pins in the 14 pin connector and ground.
My understanding is that if there is a short to the ground I will get a reading if there is no short to ground I will get no readings

[mnewport]

I have disconnected the batteries ground and apply the volt meter to the pins in the 14 pin connector and ground. My understanding is that if there is a short to the ground I will get a reading if there is no short to ground I will get no readings

Use either your forward bias setting on the meter or the DC resistance setting. If you've got a short path to ground your reading will be close to 0 ohms and you'll get a beep if continuity exists. If your DC resistance is in the hundreds of ohms it's likely a problem too, as the circuit is seeing an unusually high load. If the reading is high (in the mega-ohm range or over the meter's limit) you're fine.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

I have disconnected the batteries ground and apply the volt meter to the pins in the 14 pin connector and ground.
My understanding is that if there is a short to the ground I will get a reading if there is no short to ground I will get no readings

Steve,

Set the multi-tester @ continuity test (with beeper) or use a simple test lite/lamp. I went over your data for pin #2 (male) with 86 ohms reading (???) This is a ground wire and not in use. Plus the other terminals that are connected to the dash instruments would show resistance (ohms) during the test. What made you think that there is 'unwanted ground' in one of the circuits? Are you blowing out fuses? How come you got ZERO reading for terminal #10? The WUR and AAR have a combined resistance of 50 plus Ohms. Thanks.

Tony

[Cdnone1]

Here's a link to long story
help with freakish non start problem
I'm at my wits and skills end. Electronics is not my strong suit

[Cdnone1]

Short story for my inquiry is that if I turn the key to start the car I am getting 12 volts at the yellow terminal 30 but the starter will not turn.
I ran a direct fused line with a momentary switch from the battery to the terminal 30 and the starter turns the car right over.
If I pig tail the yellow wire to my direct line and push the momentary switch the starter does not engage and the fuse in my direct line blows.
Therefore I figure the electricity is traveling up the yellow line to a short somewhere.
If I start the car with the yellow wire disconnected it starts fine but then after about 30 secs runs like crap
Thanks

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

Short story for my inquiry is that if I turn the key to start the car I am getting 12 volts at the yellow terminal 30 but the starter will not turn.
I ran a direct fused line with a momentary switch from the battery to the terminal 30 and the starter turns the car right over.
If I pig tail the yellow wire to my direct line and push the momentary switch the starter does not engage and the fuse in my direct line blows.
Therefore I figure the electricity is traveling up the yellow line to a short somewhere.
If I start the car with the yellow wire disconnected it starts fine but then after about 30 secs runs like crap
Thanks

Steve,

Please confirm that this is just a typo. Terminal #30 from your above post is misleading!!!! Terminal #30 has the RED cable wire from alternator, and the BLACK cable wire from the battery at this terminal. Terminal #50 has the YELLOW wire from ignition switch via 14-1 connector. Terminal #30 will always have 12 volts as long as a fully charged battery is connected. It has nothing to do whether you turn the ignition switch ON or OFF!!!!

Secondly, I know why the fuse in your direct line blew after connecting it to the yellow wire. But let's hold it until we clear the matter. It will only add to your confusion. First, let's establish that you are doing the test on the correct terminal (s)!!!!!! Keep us posted.

Tony

[boyt911sc]

Steve,

There must be some logical explanation to this and you're the only one who could help clear this matter.

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

Short story for my inquiry is that if I turn the key to start the car I am getting 12 volts at the yellow terminal 30 but the starter will not turn...............

The yellow wire is connected to terminal #50 not #30.

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

.............I ran a direct fused line with a momentary switch from the battery to the terminal 30 and the starter turns the car right over.............

You must have used terminal #50 to make it start because applying 12 volts at terminal #30 will do nothing. It has already 12 volts since it is directly connected to the battery.

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

If I pig tail the yellow wire to my direct line and push the momentary switch the starter does not engage and the fuse in my direct line blows.
Therefore I figure the electricity is traveling up the yellow line to a short somewhere.

But you just connected the yellow wire and the direct wire. See above 'quote'. What's the fuse rating used? Was the fuse blown because of 'short circuit' or too much current being drawn?

There is only one (1) connection you need from the 14 pin connector to activate the starter and that's 14-1 with the yellow wire. I re-read your original post and these guys namely:

Pete3799
Walter_Middie
T77911S (TY)
Ipacketeer
1990C4S

Had given you some directions to check your starting problem and they make sense to me. If you are interested in finding the 'ground fault' just use a continuity tester or a test light and forget the resistance (ohms). The information/data you have provided are not helping you at all.

Tony

[Cdnone1]

Sorry guys. I connected it to terminal #50.
The fuse was rated for 10 amps and does NOT blow when I start the car with just the direct line, but does blow when I pigtail the yellow wire at terminal 50. That is why I figure there must be a short somewhere because the yellow wire at terminal 50 will not provide enough amps to engage the starter and blows the fuse when pigtailed to the direct line
How do I run a continuity tester?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

Sorry guys. I connected it to terminal #50.
The fuse was rated for 10 amps and does NOT blow when I start the car with just the direct line, but does blow when I pigtail the yellow wire at terminal 50. That is why I figure there must be a short somewhere because the yellow wire at terminal 50 will not provide enough amps to engage the starter and blows the fuse when pigtailed to the direct line
How do I run a continuity tester?

Steve,

Take a good look at your multi-tester and look for the symbol on the face of the instrument. Or read the manual instruction if you have one. Or post a picture of the tester and people would direct you to the proper setting. I got a Fluke and another 2 multi-testers and they are set differently from each other.

When you successfully started the engine with the direct line (with in-line fuse), was the yellow wire still connected @50? Or disconnected? I'm not exactly clear with the 'pig-tail connection' but could you elaborate on it? Showing your set-up during tests with digital pictures would be much appreciated. I'm still having a problem understanding why you're having such a difficult time locating the fault.

I doubt if the yellow wire is 'shorted' but I could be wrong. Don't give up, it is something obvious that you haven't discovered yet.

Tony

[Cdnone1]

Thanks Tony and thanks for the PM. I may take you up on the offer this evening if I can't get this done today.
When I try with just the yellow wire attached to terminal 50-no starter engagement
If I try with just the direct line at terminal 50- starter engages and car starts
If I try with the yellow wire and the direct line both attached to terminal 50- no starter engagement and the fuse in the direct line blows

[Cdnone1]

Here's my volt meter

[boyt911sc]

Steve,

Place the selector to about 5 O'clock position where the arrow + & sound symbols are located. Plug the red wire @ RED and the black wire @COM. Keep us posted.

Tony

[Cdnone1]

Then do what?
Should I place the tips starting at the ignition switch and the starter? What would I be looking for and what should the meter do?

[boyt911sc]

Steve,

After you have set the tester for the continuity test (@arrow+Sound symbols), plug the probe wires RED & BLACK. Connect or make the tips (probes) come in contact and see if you could hear the beep sound. The beep sound is an alert that there is continuity on the line.

Tony

[Cdnone1]

Thanks
Yes when I touch the tips the meter beeps. Now what should I test?

[Cdnone1]

Thanks Tony.
Maybe you can help me out.
I disconnected the battery. I put the continuity on terminal 50 and a good ground on the ignition switch and got no sound , so that s good with no short to ground.
I disconnected the yellow wire at the starter.
I checked terminal 30 (both) on the ignition switch and got a sound, which I assume means the is a ground short somewhere.
I unplugged the harness at the 14 pin connector.
I retested terminal 30(both) at the ignition switch and still got a tone.
Does that mean I have a short to ground somewhere between the ignition switch and the 14 pin
connector?
To recap. I have unplugged the ignition switch and unplugged the 14 pin connector. I am getting a continuity sound at the 30 terminals on the ignition switch
Thanks

[Cdnone1]

Sorry
I got my terminals confused. If I am getting continuity at terminals 30 at the ignition switch with the battery disconnected then I must have a ground fault or short to ground between the two red wires and the switch, right!?