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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bama Gulf Coast
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3.2ltr oil leaks

So, I had an oil leak on my oil return lines. I ordered from our host and had the things like within 2 days and I'm all the way in South Alabama; Wayne your on your game my friend!

Anyway, when I get the thing in the air I noticed that the damn thing ALREADY had two piece lines in it. Though they aren't even close as far as quality IMHO. The OEM Pelican zink tubes are MUCH larger, have far better Orings. The first photo is of the old lines. They look really nice and weigh nothing, but use really small Orings. I may keep them as back up's once I find out who makes them? If anyone can tell let me know.


The main leak was from the line closest to the oil cooler, then one on the drivers side rear of the engine. The other two seem to be fine now but I will change those out when I do my next oil change I think. The only real PIA during the job is the Pelican part has such tight fitment that when you compress the tube to get it in place they are a real PIA to spread apart. I used the two hose clamp process, putting a clamp on each pipe then your able to shove against those rather than the pipe itself. This worked best using really large flathead pry bars. The other hard thing was getting the split ring slid back in place, that was only hard on the drivers side. The pass side you have enough room that you can use 90deg split ring pliers.

I somewhat cleaned the bottom of the engine case (gosh was it nasty) so that I could see if anything else may be leaking and found this. I'm guessing the first picture is of the bottom of the 'oil cooler.' I haven't looked at the book to see if that is the name of the part so forgive me if I'm calling it the wrong thing. It looks as if it may have an Oring inside it? Can you just unbolt the two bolts shown in the picture move it to the side enough to get a new Orings in its place? Or, do you have the same type setup above the cooler closer to the top of the engine? If that is the case is this a 'drop the motor' endeavor? If I have to do that I may have to wait until I need a new clutch. The last photo I'm pointing to an oil line that is also leaking, does this thing have a an Oring inside it or once they start leaking you need to replace the line? I would really like to sort out all these easy to get to leaks and tackle the hard once when and if I drop the engine. The engine is sooooo nasty from both road funk and past leaks that it needs a bath in the worst way. So, how do you guys clean its still in the car? Jack stands and a pressure washer?

I would really like some guidance in where to go from here.
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
SCOTT

Old 04-13-2011, 03:36 PM
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Your 2nd and 3rd pictures didn't totally load up but the first line your pointing to is a compression fitting (no O-ring) may just need to tighten it.
The last picture is the oil cooler and yes there are O-rings (3) 2 on top and one where your pointing. 4 bolts hold it on so it has to be removed in order to replace them. Easier done when the motor is out but some have done it in situ.
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:58 PM
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I too have been contemplating doing an under engine cleaning with a power washer although I know you have to be very careful around the rubber bits. Does anyone else have suggestions?

Michael
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:43 PM
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I did a partial drop to remove the oil cooler, but I had everything apart recently so everything came apart easily. You maybe leaking from above and it could appear to be the cooler. I also had my intake system off, that made it easier.

Degreaser and power wash does wonders. Makes a nice stain in the driveway that you have to pressure wash off when you are done. I think the only delicate items where the heater ducting.

Last edited by dhg1337; 04-14-2011 at 08:43 PM..
Old 04-14-2011, 08:38 PM
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I did the power wash thing not too long ago in order to detect where the leaks are coming from. They use hot soapy water under high pressure. Did an amazing job at cleaning up the underside of the engine. I have before and after photo's in linked thread below.

Playing Oil Leak Detective
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MH911 View Post
I did the power wash thing not too long ago in order to detect where the leaks are coming from. They use hot soapy water under high pressure. Did an amazing job at cleaning up the underside of the engine. I have before and after photo's in linked thread below.

Playing Oil Leak Detective

KIPP,
Thanks for the reply. I've read your thread and will go back to it I'm sure!
I too have oil cooler leaks and well, many of the same issues you resolved.
Mine aren't too bad but bad enough to make the car smoke when its burning
off the drips.

I really need to find someone around here that does cleaning like that. I too
don't want to just jack up the car and let it go into my fishing waters. I hope
to find someone that can do as good a job as you had done.
Old 04-16-2011, 11:12 PM
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Ok I think I fixed the photo's.
I know the cooler will have to come off to replace the orings. The one I'm really
wondering is, can something be done to the oil line? I've tried to tighten it up
that didn't fix the issue. Now, on a scale of 1-10 I would call this leak a 2 at best.
my thought really is to not worry so much with it rather focus on other pressing
worse issues. Perhaps valve cover gaskets, oil cooler, so on.

thoughts?


Old 04-16-2011, 11:58 PM
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The only other thing you can do with the oil lines is to drain the oil, disconnect the line, clean the threads (male and female) and apply some Curil-T or other similar sealant. I don't have the torque values handy, but that one is cranked down pretty good. I'd say 35lb+ or so, please verify before you tighten too much.
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:39 AM
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I have a 84 911 and had a nasty oil leak. Looking through these forums, I discovered that it might be the unholy 3, breather gasket, oil thermostat o-ring, or the oil pressure light switch. Yesterday I also decided that it might be the seals in the oil cooler and managed to replace them without dropping or partially dropping the motor. Yea, it's a bear! I also found that the seals were in good shape and most likely didn't need to be replaced. This added to the job. But the cooler was nasty with oil and now its shiny and clean and has to help in cooling. I also replaced the thermostat o-ring, ( I really think this was the leak), and the pressure switch. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on the forum for the help. Some of my oil lines appeared to be leaking also, but, when I repaced the seals, the lines dryed up. It's amazing how the oil will migrate and make you believe it is coming from somewhere else.

Old 04-17-2011, 08:39 AM
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