can you drive with the 14 pin connector unplugged
 

CAn I drive my SC with the 14 pin connector unplugged? I understand some things will not work like the tach and gauges but will it harm the car?

Steve

14 pin connector
 

Where is the 14 pin connector located?

Tom

At the rear of the engine bay, drivers side, right by the fuses

14 pin connector location
 

Thanks for the info, just making sure.

Thanks, but why?
Besides the starter and power for the gauges what other crucial functions run through that connector?

14-pin wire connections.........
 

Cdnone1,

You need two (2) connections from the 14-pin connector to make the engine run. These are pins # 14-1 and #14-10 (CSV & TTS) and (WUR & AAR) respectively. See picture below of engine running with these 2 connections in place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1303144157.jpg

Need #14-1 for start-up and #14-10 for warming up and once the engine is running and at operating temperature, you can get away without these connections. What is your goal or objective?

Tony

It seems that I have offended Mr. Conway with my directness and I sincerely apologize
if I was curse. A yes or no question was asked and I answered (no)

To further elaborate on the question I will kindly add the following.

The 14 pin connector is located on the end of the engine wiring harness and can be
found on the left side of the engine compartment near the No,1 spark plug. It is a part
of the main engine harness and connects the engine electric devices to the associated
components mounted on the chassis. Looking near the No.1 spark plug you Will see a
large 3 connector, black, tape wrapped, harness pigtail hanging loose. The 3 connector
pigtail consist of:

(1) 3 pin female connector that attaches to the voltage regulator (a black, metal, stand alone, rectangular box mounted on the bulkhead near, and forward of, the rear fuse panel chassis.)

(1) 6 pin female connector with a flexible rubber protective boot that attaches to the Bosch CD ( Silver, ribbed top, rectangular box, mounted on the right side of the rear fuse panel chassis.

(1) 14 pin female connector, ( as mentioned in your original question) narrow rectangular shape,attaches to a mating male connector that is fixed to the left end of the rear fuse panel chassis.

The 14 pin connector pin outs below:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1303145246.jpg



Cole

Thanks guys.
I have a short to ground in the harness that I believe is in the female side of the 14 pin connector. I ran some ohm tests and here is what I found
Thanks for all the help guys
I measured the resistance at the 14 pin connector
From the female end going out here's what I found out with my ohmm meter
Female side
#1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,11,12,13,14 all 0
terminal 9 1.6
terminal 10 6.4

From the male side
1-0
2-86
3-124
4-4
5-1
6,7-0
8-1.3
9-16.9
10-0
11-6.6
12,13,14-0
It was jumping around on the male side of the terminal so I'm pretty sure there is a problem there

Got any advise for taking it apart and solving this mystery?
Thanks
Oh it started with this
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/601096-help-freakish-non-start-problem.html

Correction needed........
 

Cole930,

I would like to call your attention about the chart you just posted. There are two (2) data in the chart that caught my attention, namely:

10. Not used - Red/White..........this supplies power to WUR, AAR, and TTV (optional).

12. Not used - red/Violet........... the wire from CDI that supplies signal to tachometer.

I believe both of these terminals are always in use as far I know! Please advise.

Tony

Sorry to hijack slightly
But would the pins in the 14 pin connector have the same functions on my '87, 930?

I currently have permanent 12v direct from the live battery pole powering my #14 pin!!:eek:

Boyt:

There are only about 30 different 14 pin drawings floating around and this happens to be one that covered a couple different models and seems the most accurate. I have had it archived for years. I do know that the color was wrong for the tach wire, should be Balck/ violet not red/violet. I have no way of changing them or updating them but I have always found them to be accurate enough to get you going through a process of elimination if nothing else. You have to understand there are many models and each has a 14 pin connector. The red white wire to the wur is correct, if you look at the 930 drawing below it is the same.

TwinPlug:

Here is one for a 78 930 which works for my 80. I will at least get you started in the right direction.
Pin 14 (will be hot) as it is being fed from the positive battery lead and attached to the starter post.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1303161560.jpg


Cole

Miscommunication........
 

Cole,

I was not calling your attention about the 'wire color code' (????). It was about 'not used' description on your table. Both terminals #10 & #12 were designated as NOT USED. My intention was to focus on the information and make appropriate correction. It was not intended to challenge you by any means. I have made a 14-pin connection table 5 years ago and I'm still find some typo's as of recently. I call this a living document that needs to be updated when error exists in the information. Otherwise, this error or mistake would be handed down to the next generation.

Tony

Tony:

I was not at all offended. It was obvious by your knowledge of the connector that you have, much like me, realizing there must be many different layouts and configurations. As far as addressing the "not used" if you have a tach there is no other way I know of wiring it and if you have a WUR you need the red / white wires. My only take on it is if someone uses that layout for some earlier chassis like a carb car or mechanical injection and relabeled to document what was different. The tach signal is a 5vdc square wave on most of the later models and all use the black/ Violet wire but I am not familiar with any earlier tachs.

Cole

Thanks Tony.
Maybe you can help me out.
I disconnected the battery. I put the continuity on terminal 50 and a good ground on the ignition switch and got no sound , so that s good with no short to ground.
I disconnected the yellow wire at the starter.
I checked terminal 30 (both) on the ignition switch and got a sound, which I assume means the is a ground short somewhere.
I unplugged the harness at the 14 pin connector.
I retested terminal 30(both) at the ignition switch and still got a tone.
Does that mean I have a short to ground somewhere between the ignition switch and the 14 pin
connector?
To recap. I have unplugged the ignition switch and unplugged the 14 pin connector. I am getting a continuity sound at the 30 terminals on the ignition switch
Thanks

Sorry
I got my terminals confused. If I am getting continuity at terminals 30 at the ignition switch with the battery disconnected then I must have a ground fault or short to ground between the two red wires and the switch, right!?

Back from a trip........
 

Steve,

I just got back from an out-of-state trip and read your post. I also read your other post about finding the culprit. I hope you're correct and happy you identified it. However, I have sound doubt at back of my mind that it might be another false alarm!!!! I'm getting ready for a day trip tomorrow to Hershey (rain or shine) which is my annual mecca.

If everything is good by the end of the week in your troubleshooting, it would save me some sleepless nights. I've been thinking about this problem for several days and telling my self how difficult it would be to locate the culprit? I like this type of troubleshooting and fascinates me more when you could not find an immediate answer. Hope you find the real culprit so we could move on to the next project.

Tony