Stupid guide of fitting emmision plugs in three steps...
 

OK, guys, don't laugh! :) I know it's an easy thing but i just felt i needed to contribute to "forums whealth of knowledge and bad expiriences" It's not a rocket-scientist guide for rebuilding your engine but it might help somebody from frustration of burning your hands on exhaust and/or losing one of six emmision plugs that you bought from England for 2$ a piece.

Step 1:
Drive your car to the nearest car-lift.

Step 2:
Undo all air injectors with good tool (as in pic), remember that good tool saves life/marriage/money/time etc. Use troublelight. (it will fall to the ground so take another bulb with you)

Step 3:
Cover those waste-water grid-ducts on the floor with a roll of paper beacuse Murphy says that you'll lost one of those plugs while wrenching and it will fall straight down into the drain.

Step 4:
While engine-heads are still warm, put a drop of blue loctite on a each plug and screw them carefully into the holes. Use straight shaft for right side, and "cardan"-style wrench for two of those troublesome places around heat-chambers. Again, be carefull or you'll drop it.

Tighten it with fingers w/o using whole wrench shaft until you feel resistance. (plugs are tapered) Back it a quarter of turn and tighten it finally by hand (not too much!).

Voilá!

Pics:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...ds/tool_bb.jpg http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...enching_bb.jpg http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate.../fitted_bb.jpg

Any advice on getting the old injector lines off? Mine seem to be stuck solid!

Chris:

First: drop the heat exchangers. This will free up space needed to work in this area. Note: if exhaust studs and nuts are in bad shape, you might think about capping the injection rail where it joins the rubber hose to the injection pump.

If you decide to bite the bullet and drop the H/Es, make sure you have the tools and parts to replace any studs that give you a problem.

Once the H/Es are down spray the rail to injector connection and injector to head point with lots of your favorite solvent (WD-40, PB blast, etc).

Seperate the rail from the injectors. Use heat, as needed, but be careful of O-rings in return tubes. If you find that the rail nut or injector threads are shearing off rather than coming undone, stop and decide whether you want to go forward.

If so, use a deep well socket on the injectors. I found that the injectors either started turning without a great amount of torque or started to shear, not much in between. Use heat if they start to shear.

Worse case, get out the tap set, and well you know the drill at this point.

Good luck.