Stripping anodization

[gr8fl4porsche]

I have been on a break from my wheel refinishing project for a while now. Time to get back to it. One of my 8's is complete. I am having trouble stripping the 7's.

I have tried several brands of aircraft stripper, eazy off blue label, and sanding wheels. The dremel type sanding buff works, but is too slow.

Specifically what brand of stripper has anyone used that removes the silver lip coating? Black coating comes off with time and work but silver remains unaffected by chemicals.

[si Banker]

Take the wheels to a shop the does anodizing and they can dip them in a solution that will remove all of the old anodizing in a matter of a minute. Make sure they are clean and all the paint has been stripped off.

Anodizing is a chemical dye that is electrically bonded to a aluminum surface. During the process there is a etching of the surface so the dye penetrates the the material. I use anodized finishes on almost all parts that I make out of aluminum. It is easy to remove and the shop I use removes it for free. Paint stripper and sanding will not remove all of the anodizing without doing damage to the material.

[Jeff Alton]

Gemeric drain cleaner containing lye takes it off very easily. Just be careful and protect your exposed skin (make sure there is none) as it is nasty stuff.

Cheers,

[si Banker]

You use to be able to remove it with oven cleaner years ago.

I would be afraid to use drain cleaner on my wheels. You could pit the surface.

It is a lot easier to get them stripped by a shop that does anodizing

[rfuerst911sc]

Easy Off in the yellow can works great, it's what I used when I stripped my Fuchs. The yellow can is the heavy duty with more lye in it. Just be careful with your skin and eyes.Leave it on for about 10-15 minutes per coat normally takes about 3 coats and all the anodizing will be gone.

[randywebb]

Anodizing is not a dye, it is a surface change in the chemistry of the Al that creates a hardened surface. IIRC, the Al is converted to Al-oxide and then changes spontaneously to Al-hdrate .. of ir it Al-hydride?

A chemical dye can be added during or after anodizing - that is prob. what the poster above is thinking of.

Anyway - I'd let a good wheel shop do it.

[Zeke]

Originally posted by rfuerst911sc
Easy Off in the yellow can works great, it's what I used when I stripped my Fuchs. The yellow can is the heavy duty with more lye in it. Just be careful with your skin and eyes.Leave it on for about 10-15 minutes per coat normally takes about 3 coats and all the anodizing will be gone.

What he said, right down to the 3rd coat. Sounds like a man who has done few. Just finished stripping some rear quarter window frames and polishing. I'm gonna clear powder coat them instead of a clear anodize. If you ask me, I think that is what the wheel finishers are using too. I know one is, a famous one.

[Jeff Alton]

For wheels I found the easy off would not do it. The drain cleaner worked like a charm, no pitting. Get a scotch brite pad and gently scrub the surface after the drain cleaner has been on it for about 30 sec. Rinse with water and you are done.

Cheers

[BGCarrera32]

Even hard coat anodizing in a refrigerated bath only grows into the material (in this case the wheel) by .001". That is quickly removed by glass bead blasting them in a sandblasting cabinet.

The drain cleaner/Easy Off with Lye (not the non-scented garbage) can be dangerous for those stupid enough not to protect their hands and do it in a well ventilated area. Have a professional shop strip them down for you or get a blast cabinet for the garage.

edit: *Not* saying you are stupid...just be careful if going the chemical route.

-BG

[ddavidv]

I have a bottle of actual anodizing remover, it's some kind of white granular material. I bought it from the same vendor that I get my buffing supplies from. I haven't used it on wheels, but it does the job on my classic Ford pickup trim. If you want the supplier name I can dig it up.

[randywebb]

protect their hands and do it in a well ventilated area.


- Eye protection is critical. And - remember - really really well-ventilated - the surfaces in your lungs are a lot more sensitive than your skin. And lye will go after them.

[gr8fl4porsche]

I tried the blast cabinet using glass beads.
Seemed to work slowly and left the aluminum pitted requiring much additional sanding.

ddavidv,
I would love to know the brand name of the anodization remover.

I will also try the drain opener while wearing gloves, eye protection and outside.

[ddavidv]

Found it:
Jestco Products
I have nothing but good things to say about this company; I've only bought from them twice but have always received great advice, and the prices were the best at the shows I attended.

[si Banker]

The reason I would rather have the wheel "dipped" by the shop that does my anodizing is that in most cases I am going to re-anodize the part and in is critical to get ALL of the existing anodizing off. If not the new anodizing will not take.

I just finished redoing a set of Fuchs and used aircraft stripper to remove the all of the paint and had the anodize shop dip the wheels. Having them stripped by the anodizer took less than a minute or two. The set of wheels I was using also had some nicks and such from use and from the stripping process so I had them cleaned up by a shop that has a very large container filled with an abrasive medium which vibrates. The results were excellent; the wheels looked as if they had just been forged.

[BGCarrera32]

Originally posted by gr8fl4porsche
I tried the blast cabinet using glass beads.
Seemed to work slowly and left the aluminum pitted requiring much additional sanding.

Sounds like the wrong bead size and the wrong pressure.

[kramer747]

I assume the Easy Off doesnt hurt tires?! Would be hard not getting it on them

[FrinkFrog]

To do wheel refinishing correctly, wouldn't one need the tires off the rims by necessity?