To flatbed or not to flatbed...that is the question.
 

Car: 81' 930

Problem: Left wheel-bearings in the back is shot. I tightened it after detecting noise and lot's of play, driven that way a few months and then it finally failed with lot's of *screeeatch..rumble...screeeatch*. After few miles loud noises dissapeared but rumble is still there. I'm taking it to factory-deler service 50 miles away. They are going to change it for approx. 470$ all included (bearings/work). Should i flatbed it those 50 miles or drive 50 "rumbling" miles and risk damaging the axle/whatever? What are the risks? Flatbed ain't cheep either...

Thanx for the input!


P.S.
Notice that SC and 930 wheel bearing aren't the same...SC has one 930 has two...

Do you have towing coverage on your car insurance or AAA? I had to have my car flatbedded once. It cost about $110 but I have towing reimbursement up to $80 on my car insurance, so it only ended up costing $30 out of pocket.

The axle goes thru the hub, the hub rides on the bearing. You run the risk of hurting the hub....if you have AAA, they have the AAA plus that will tow up to 100 miles and reimburse for overnight expenses if you breakdown on the road.

Every older P-Car should have one in the glove box....it helped when I broke down in AZ on the way home from a DE event....
:eek:

AAA in sweden? i would recommend the flatbed. if you kill the hub, the car will be laid up longer as you wait for parts and more $$ too.

Mikez, is right. The AAA plus card is a must for older p-cars. I always carry that and my cell phone.

I would flatbed if possible....the bearing has probably seized...and the shaft is now killing itself inside the bearing!

Road runner,
Didn't you have both rear bearings replaced not too long ago?

OK!

I'm going to flatbed the car! It's going to cost me max 100$ , but it might be 100 well-invested dollars (1000 SEK). I drove 20 miles since noise appeared. I hope i didn't scorche the shaft.

Makaio: What a memory! Yes i did, i had both bearings replaced...but up front! :.-(

CAUTION!!!!!!!!
Many flatbed drivers, chain up the halfshafts and wind up ripping up the boots over the CV's. Both of mine where torn up and my CV's began to dry up like a fish out of water once the boots broke loose even more.

I did not a clue this happened until it was too late!! Be careful when using a flatbed. Actually, I am not sure where to set the chains in the rear on a long tow, but grabbing the halfshafts does not seem right.

Anyone know proper set up on a flatbed?

Regards,
Bob
73.5 T

The 'proper' way to flat bed? I don't know, but I do remember that there were NO chains involved when I had my 911 flat bedded. The guy used straps that are designed to fit over the top half of the wheel, and the bottom part of each strap was attached to the flat bed and ratcheted tight. The only other thing holding the car was the towing hook attached to the front bumper (via the towing loop that screws into the bumper).

My recommendation is to call a local Porsche dealer and ask them who THEY use. That's what I did.

You should see the destruction that a bad tow operator can inflict on a 993. Since the rear suspension is all alloy parts, the whole mess can be bent if those parts are used to pull the car or secure it. At least an older 911/930 is a little tougher in that respect.

The car should be secured to the flat bed only by the chassis or wheels, not by the suspension.

Ouch.

Drive it. The damage is already done, and you are not going to ruin the stubaxle/hub. They are protected by the bearing race, and the trailing arm is peotected by the outer bearing race. OTTO

Thanx Otto!

But is there a possibility of bearing-races get loose and start grinding against hub/axle?

No chance in hell! That bearing is captivated between the hub and axle stub. No way in hell! The first video that I did was of us replacing the rear wheel bearing on a 911. I just haven't had time to narrate the video to complete the OTTO'S HOW TO VIDEO SERIES. We are going to video tape all of our operations so all you PORSCHE people will be able to see how it is done. This is going to take some time, so bear with us. Anybody else want to attempt this????????? OTTO

Hehe...thanx Otto! :)

That's what i feared (otherwise i would try to replace them myself). Those double crimp-fitted bearing races and all heating/warming stuff is a tad too messy for a DIY-er like me...especially regarding prices of new bearings...

i've replaced quite a few hubs that the inner race wore down to the point where the race was sloppy on the hub. those bearings were noisy, but not yet disintegrated. seriously, who would want to drive even a few miles with a screeching, destroyed wheel bearing, and the wheel flopping around? potential bodywork, e/brake assembly damage, bearing spacer sleeve damage, etc.

It all comes down to how far along the failure has progressed. I can see the “no way in hell” response if you caught the bearing failure early. (Esp. on the turbo w/ 2 races.) Bearings “hang-in” for a long time after “failure” before they catastrophically collapse. So the big question is; how far along are they?
It makes it tough for me (and others?) to say go ahead, drive it.