Ignition switch ground fault?
 

I am trying to solve an electrical problem in my 82 SC.
I am trying to trace what I think is a to ground short/fault.
I have completely disconnected the battery.
I have removed the electrical portion of the ignition switch from the back. Not the part that is screwed into the ignition assembly, just the part that contains the wiring.
With the battery cable disconnected I am testing for continuity by placing one probe of my continuity tester at terminal 30 and the other probe on a good ground.
I am getting a sound when doing this. With the battery disconnected and the switch isolated this must mean I have a short to ground in the incoming red wires from the battery to the switch.
Correct?!
I want to make sure before I start taking that part of the harness out.
It would make sense and potentially solve my electrical problems but I am tired of chasing ghosts and want to make sure I am on the right track.
Thanks

Steve

An ohm meter on continunity setting will read through any connected load on that wire to ground. Make sure the wire you are testing has no other interconnections before it reaches the switch, including at the fuse block. On my car some of the fuses"hot" side are interconnected on the back of the block. I would remove the fuses just to make sure. If you have the circuit truly isolated and the test to ground gives you a "beep" then you most likely have a short. HTH Jim

do you have a schematic for your car?

Yes.
I have located the problem!!!
I have a to ground short/ fault at the 5 pin connector that brings the two red wires into the 30 terminals for the ignition switch.
One of the terminals in the 5 pin connector that leads to terminal 30 in the switch is showing continuity when it should not be.
Anyone know how to remove the 5 pin connector that comes through the trunk to under dash area?
Thanks

If it's anything like the larger but very similar connector for the tail light harness, just push it through the hole, maybe use a screwdriver to lift the lip (on the cabin side) just to get it started.

They're harder to get back in, especially if access is limited. They pop right in if the rubber is clean & flexible, they're lined up perfectly and you apply pressure just right. Otherwise they don't.

5 pin connector.......
 

Steve,

Could you post a picture of the 5 pin connector you are referring to? Is the 14-pin connector table sent any help to you? Thanks.

Tony

I am still trying to find to ground short/fault.
I have chased it back to the power supply of the fuse panel.
The red/black wire from the 5 pin connector going to the ignition switch was showing a ground fault. I chased it back to where it enters the top of the fuse panel on fuse #12.
Everything is disconnected and the fuse is out.
I removed the red/black wire from the fuse block and the ground fault/ continuity went away
When I put the continuity meter on the top of the fuse holder on fuse 12 and ground I get a tone meaning a ground fault.

Are the top of the fuse mounts grounded?
Are they connected to each other?

The only way I could have a continuity between the top of fuse block 12 and ground is if they where connected or grounded somewhere.
Thanks

Let's keep this all together in one thread so everyone can follow a consistent diagnosis. Why don't you delete all the other threads except this one: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/604624-fuse-panel-grounded.html

Or at least, refer everyone from now on to the above thread.

Pull the fuse panel off and check the back side.
Some of the fuses are bridged at the rear of the panel.
If that fuse holder is bridged than check the other wires for the problem.

So, no fuses blown?

Doyle