Before you go too crazy trouble shooting that noise just remove your drain plug on the engine I think you'll have your answer.

I hope that piece of metal isn't what it looks like.

It definitely looks like rod bearing. The sound sounds like rod knock.

Take off your sump plate and let us know what you find before you go any further.

Ok, when I get home this PM I'll be taking off the sump plate and oil drain plugs.

I'll let you know what I find.

Best of luck!

Subscribing to the thread so I'll watch for your replies...

That stuff gets EVERYWHERE. IN fact I think that's often the worst part of a failed bearing. it's not the rebuild, replacing the rod, checking the crank or any of that jazz. It's trying to get the 34,000,000,000 pieces of rod bearing material out of every crack, crevice, oil line, journal, galley, pump, and cooler in the system. BTDT, hated it.

Thanks cstreit, I think I'll need a lot of luck in this one!!!

Don't forget to open up the oil filter.

No sump plate on a 1985 Carrera, right?

Put a thin rag, old white one, inside the tub/container you drain your oil into. That way you can catch the bits and pieces of metal to evaluate the overall damage done, if any.

Let's hope there isn't any, but then again that "noice" doesn't sound promising.

From the pictures, it appears that the left idler arm, driver's side chain box, is hitting the top of the chain box. That may be the knocking noice and proof that the chain tensioner isn't getting fed much oil pressure. Also, I noticed the left chain box, driver's side, has a dark colored hue within the box itself where the right-side chain box, passenger's side, is cleaner. Shows signs that there is oil getting circulated there, but not on the other side.

Just an observation.

Good luck with this!

Yes it does.

So this guy's car has a 3.0L engine in it?

Sorry, but you have a rod bearing failure, and here's what it will look like when you crack the case open:

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/100_0855.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/100_0880.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/100_0881.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/100_0879.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/100_0873.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/100_0857.jpg

All 911s have sump plates. What they did away with was the drain plug on the sump plate so you have to remove the whole sump plate in those cases.

James, are you sure about the sum plate in my car?

My oil drain plug is the same as the one shown in this picture (from the Bentley manual):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305733117.jpg

yes, no sump plate for you.

Wow!!! those pieces of metal in Zoa's first picture look like mine....I'm hoping for a miracle!!!

I couldn't work on the car last night, but will get on it today for sure.

Il take the oil out and filter it to see what I find. Also will open the filter as suggested by James.

Yep, sorry Max I didn't look at your car's year. Still, then drain the oil through a screen, and cut open your oil filter. I'm still hopeful that this is not it, but pretty sure you're going to find a mess. BTDT

The bearing parts are magnetic and stick to the drain plug. You'll know one way or another when you pull the plug.

Sorry. I was confused and therefore incorrect. Sorry if it caused any confusion.

Update
 

Ok, I pulled the oil drain plug, filtered the oil that came out, removed the oil filter and opened it.

Here are the pictures:

Drain plug and bits of metal that were in the oil:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305772792.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305772880.jpg

Oil filter, the shiny spots are small pieces of metal:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305772981.jpg

Looks like rod bearing failure, doesn't it?

Other will chime in but based on what you have found I would be stripping down that engine.

What's actually failed??? As others have suggested most likely a Rod Bearing but until you get her apart you won't know how bad it.
Hopefully not too much damage has been done internally.

Have you got some basic tools, jack and help if needed? Good luck with everything.

Its a bearing, but who knows which one: Rod, main or IMS. Doesn't matter because you need a new/rebuilt motor no matter how you look at it.

Sorry Max but that's definitely a rod bearing...

Now comes the hard decision, repair or replace. If you repair it's a tough road to clean everything out well enough to get all the bearing bits out of the oil galleys, etc... Scrap or ultrasonically clean oil coolers, flush lines etc... I had to redo my race engine last year because despite fastidious cleaning there was still some debris...

That sucks Max, very sorry. Keep us posted.

Well my hopes of a failed tensioner or broken valve spring have been shattered...!!!

My first thought is to open the engine to see how much damage was done. According to that, see if a rebuild is feasable or to get a new/rebuilt engine will be best, both moneywise and timewise.

I'n not afraid of getting into a rebuild, but Chris's thoughts about the fastidious cleaning of the debris worries me a bit.

What are the most common causes a rod bearing failure?, other than the obvious of running the engine without oil!

Is it mainly fatigue?

Thanks to everyone for your help so far. Guess I'll keep needing it, this would be my first engine tear down. And in the meanwhile I guess I'll be driving my 944!!!

Rod Bearing failure?

Low oil pressure and/or overrevving are the usual causes. Tired engines with worn out bearings start losing pressure and wearing faster, vicious circle.

Thanks Chris, I guess my failure was a combination of overreving with a tired bearing.

The problem came up after some hard driving. Motor is about 90.000 miles now. I've had it since 60.000 miles and have no clue of what could have been done by previous owner/s.

I can't say for sure, but I think I recall the 3.2 having an issue with failing rod bolts at one time. They use a smaller bolt than the 2.0-3.0 engines.

Don't worry about the cleaning issues. All problems can be solved. I have rebuilt several motors that were as bad as yours. In fact I'm doing a turbo motor right now that had a bearing failure. No matter what, you will have to clean the oil lines, cooler, and tank; and that is the hard part. So builders replace all those parts, but that's expensive.

FWIW, I replaced the P&C and rod for the #6 which failed during heavy acceleration following a tight turn which starved the engine of oil. Had the crank welded and resized to factory specs, and I've been racing that motor for three seasons since, without issue. You will likely find that one rod bearing has failed, but you will obviously want to replace them all and refresh the motor. It is actually a very fun project that will give you tons of confidence. Look to the engine rebuilding forum here for assistance.


edit: like cstreit said, it's definitely a rod bearing. That's what causes the deep knocking sound. I remember it well. :)

Like I ve said, Putting the cam restrictors in, especially on a Carrera, I would rather loose the cam than the crank and all it can entail. I have seen too many 3.2 wiped on the 2 or 5 throw and it wasnt caused by rod bolts, but oil starvation...
Bruce

Bruce, can you explain what you just said for the rest of us unwashed ignorant types? Cam restrictors? How does this affect oil starvation? What are cam restrictors?
Al

I feel your pain.

Youll love it even more after your done. trust me... Hang in there. Its actually fun and wont take too long. Good luck.

After recovering from the first moments of depression when i found all that metal in the oil I'm getting ready to disassemble the engine.

I have been getting info from the engine rebuilding forum and ordered Wayne's engine rebuild book.

I'm really looking forward to the learning process involved. And more important, enjoying a fresh rebuilt engine!!!

Found a discussion on oiling and cam restrictors: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/608132-cam-tower-oil-line-restrictors-redux.html

What he said is he would rather install the cam line restrictors that restrict oil flow to the cam housings in order to retain higher pressure in the case, thereby protecting the crankshaft and rods more effectively. There is sufficient remaining flow for the cams, so the restrictors are worthwhile. They are simply fittings that are installed at the rear of the motor on the cam housings where the oil lines enter. The factory fitting has a larger hole in it.

It should be mentioned that there is not 100% agreement that changing to the restricted fittings is advisable. I had stock, rebuilt engine with restrictors, now back to stock fittings. I remember some past threads containing more on this. I think the Wayne book recommends the restricted fittings. With the stock fittings the oil pressure is noticeably lower as seen on the dash. I noticed some issues with what appears to be rocker pad wear (after posting and getting many good comments, not sure what I saw is 100% lube related) and changed back thinking it would help.

Thanks for the explanation. I see Pelican sells a kit for both sides with replacement oil lines and washers for $32.