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(man/dude)
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g50 clutch stranded, need rough measurement, clutch fork past normal travel?
Hello all,
I am facing a car I cannot drive, I was driving along and went to shift and out of the blue the clutch pedal would only go down 1/2 way or so far and not disengage the clutch full;y. I initially though it might be a floormat caught or something.... I finally just pressed harder with my foot and it seemed to "let go" but after that pressing the pedal seemed to have no effect and I can actually feel through the pedal something "rattling" agains (I assume) part of the pressure plate?? Luckily I was able (with a little grinding) to drive to a buddy's place and am stuck in his garage with the rear of the car in the air. So I yanked the slave off and cannot see anything wrong other that (I suspect) the actuator fork is depressed too far, as though it's gone "over center", lost its purchase on the TO bearing, and will not return. If I stick a pen into the "cup" on the fork the distance from the cup to the slave cyl. mounting surface is about 2-1/2". So I cannot even get the rod of the slave cylinder to seat into it to get the slave back on.... Any help is greatly appreciated. Last edited by Jonny042; 05-11-2011 at 04:38 PM.. Reason: clarity |
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05-11-2011, 04:34 PM
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(man/dude)
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I am suddenly learning about the cross shaft update.....
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05-11-2011, 05:05 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Central Canada
Posts: 1,089
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I'm not an expert, but I'm sure someone will chime in soon. The only reason I can think that the tip of the clutch fork could get TOO far from the rod on the slave cylinder, is if the ears that the fork pivots on have broken off. This can happen if they have been drilled for the update, but I don't think it is common at all.
I guess the other possibility is that the slave cylinder rod is not coming out as far as it used to for whatever reason. There is nothing broken in the pedal box area is there? No fluid leak at all? As I said, I'm far from an expert, I'm sure those with more experience will speak up soon. Do you have access to a bently manual? It isn't too much work to drop the tranny mount and gear link coupler so you can lower the front of the engine/tranny. Then maybe with a mirror you could see into the clutch fork area and see what it looks like in there. |
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05-11-2011, 05:36 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 4,703
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hope that a trans ear didn't break, this is why I don't like any of the drill out upgrades
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05-11-2011, 05:41 PM
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(man/dude)
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&*%*&%*(*^&%$$$$^$$$$% this is not sounding good.
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05-11-2011, 07:05 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Central Canada
Posts: 1,089
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From all the reading I did when putting mine back together, it is a very rare failure. I mean, it was the official porsche factory fix. (Not saying they never did anything wrong mind!)
Need to have a look in there with a mirror. Check out the pedal box too, although if you said it was grinding on the drive back, I'd start unbolting the front of the tranny and trying to get a look in there. I think its coming out anyway by the sounds of things. If you have some help and do a little reading, an engine drop is really not that hard. Even I managed it and I never thought I could. Try to snap a pic with the mirror and post what you see in there. Last edited by andyt11; 05-11-2011 at 07:27 PM.. |
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05-11-2011, 07:24 PM
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(man/dude)
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Well I am learning all about it and you are right, even though it probably couldn't be worse, it's probably not that bad.
And at this point the most likely culprit is broken ears on the release bearing. I was not understanding until now how the clutch worked (pulls not pushes)!!! Which I have never seen before.... no comment 
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05-12-2011, 03:44 AM
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