removing a-arm???
 

i am in the process of renewing my suspension. thus far i have the tie rod removed, drop link removed, strut freely suspended, brake line disconnected and got stuck on the removal of the a-arm. i will be installing new a-arm bushings. the rear bushing is wedged in there pretty good. everything else is removed from the a-arm and is only held in by the rear bushing. HOW DO I REMOVE THE A-ARM? please advise as i plan to continue tomorrow?
the rear is almost done. i installed new trailing arm OE bushings, new poly sway bar bushings, 24 mm torsion bars. i learned that the sway away outer spring plate bushings need to be shaved. this has stalled the completion of the back end. tia.
bob
68 L
ps here is the link to my project list
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59479&highlight=spirite d+daily+driver

Bob

There is but one large bolt hold the rear of the control arm in place. It passes through the front crossmember.

Around the bushing on the rear of the control arm is a metal sleeve with a tube welded to the side. The large bolt mentioned above passes through the tube. You are probably trying to pull the control arm out of the sleeve. You can't do that, you need to take the sleeve with the control arm.

You will remove the sleeve after you have the assembly out of the car. Heat the sleeve with a torch, put the control arm in a vice, then twist off the sleeve with rod (screwdriver works well).

Here is the sleeve:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...wedbushing.JPG

another view

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...ads/flame1.JPG

here it is installed.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...Frontdone2.JPG

The bolt on the far right of the cross member is the one you need to pull.

thanks clark. i'll give it another attempt with this in mind. it seems the '68 is a unique year in re: to the a-arm. btw, looks like you did a great job with your project. nice little touches like repainting the a-arm that you can't get from a wrench. i'm learning quite a bit about my car. guess i'm considered a checkbook mechanic but the suspension overhaul should build my confidence.
just a couple more questions:

1 what is the easiest way to remove old rubber a-arm bushings? heat and slice?

2 how easily should the new poly a-arm bushing go in? will they just slide on or do i have to pound them in? method?

again thanks.
bob

A can't talk to any specifics on the '68 since I haven't done one. But I think it is the same. The crossmember is steel instead of aluminum as in my picture, but I believe the rear bushing mount is the same. Even if it is a little different, I think you have the idea now.

Best way to get it off is to put it in a vice, heat the outer metal with a torch, then twist it off with a screw driver. Once the outer sleeve is off, the rubber comes off pretty easily (unlike the rear spring plates). Use a razor knife if it gives you any grief.

You are likely to find the new ones are very tight, in fact too tight and if you force them on you will experience binding in the suspension.

When I did my '77 I just squeezed them on and they created some resistance to suspension movement. Not good, you want frictionless. With several hundred miles on them now, they seem to be working in a freeing up. But I wouldn't do it that way again!

The thing to do is to mill down the bushings just enough to get a snug fit, but not a force fit.

You can use a lathe and a sanding block to remove material from the outer diameter (or perhaps a drill press if you can find a way to chuck the bushing).

To remove material from the inside, you can use a lathe with dowel that is just slightly smaller than the ID of the bushing. Then wrap a couple thicknesses of sandpaper around the dowel, spin it, and slide the bushing over the spinning sand paper. If you don't have lathe you might try a drill press with a sanding drum. If you don't have a drill press you might use a dowel with sandpaper by hand.

In all cases, use very fine sandpaper to achieve a smooth surface.

Once you put it together, hit the outer metal with a torch to heat the bushing and get it's outer diameter to conform a bit better.

Also, install zirk fitting in the outer metal. Make the zirk go through the bushing so it gets the grease to the inside. You want the inside surface of the bushing to slip, not the outside. So you will drill a hole through the bushing to accept the zirk. Also cut a channel length wise on the ID of the bushing where the zirk comes to help the grease find its way over the entire width of the bushing. Just a small channel, 1/8 inch deep - use a hack saw blade.

You want to take your time and do this one right.

got it. thanks clark. everything is out and ready for clean-up and repaint.
bob