Start then stall problem

[Cdnone1]

First a little back story.
Three months ago while working on my 82 SC I moved the tube that diverts the water from the cowl thru the trunk and out the bottom of the car into an area that went directly to the interior of the car and I forgot to move it back.
The car was outside for two weeks of the worst rain we have seen in LA for years. A couple of days after the rain I went out to take the car some where and there was several inches of water inside the cabin. I pumped out the cabin, pulled the carpet and the car started right up and drove fine. I tried to air out the car as best as I could over the next two weeks but it was like a green house in there for a while
Fast forward to a few weeks ago. I come out and the car will not start. I started chasing electrical problems and eventually found oxidization and corrosion in the Y connector of the yellow wire where it splits in the trunk. One wire goes to the 14 pin connector and one to the fuel pump relay. I fixed that and the car starts fine. I discovered that almost all of my electrical connections where oxidized or corroding. I have cleaned and di-electric greased most of them. but there is light corrosion every where
Now to the new problem.
Once I got the car to start I am having this problem.
The car starts and runs fine for around 25-35 seconds. You can rev it no problem, it idles no problem you would not know anything was wrong with the car. At around 25 seconds the car starts bucking, popping and will not hold idle. If I "give it a little gas" or raise the air sensor plate via the throttle cable it starts backfiring the pop off valve.
It seems like a fuel starvation problem to me. if left running the car will eventually sputter and die within 60 seconds of starting
Upon starting I know I have fuel, air and spark then I loose either the fuel or the spark.It feels like fuel
I am looking for any help, ideas or tests to run to help solve this. I am suspecting electrical because of what happened and what I found fixing the starter problem after the flood.
Any help would be appreciated
I have done a search but can not seem to find a similar problem to this
Thanks

[70SC]

It sounds like water in the fuel . Ask me how i know CIS is very sensitive to ANY water & sludge !!!!! Remove & Flush the tank . Change fuel filters ,Espec.the screen in the tank .Flush out lines/ injectors. You might want to have a spare set of plugs in case yours are fouled . I just went through my fuel system & the car runs GREAT Don't forget new fuel lines !!!!!!!

[Cdnone1]

I'm all for trying that, but why would it run absolutely fine for 30 seconds ever time I start the car. I go out and start the car a couple of times a day and it does the same thing. The car was running fine the last time I drove it and have not put new fuel in it since then. It does not sputter or misfire or struggle at all for the first 30 seconds. I have actually use the 30 secs to move the car around in the driveway
Steve

[schumicat]

did you check the frequency valve and 02 relay under the passengers eat? I imagine they were ruined by being underwater.

[T77911S]

this is an 82?

check for power at the warm up regulator.

a little less likely, did you do something to the cold sart system, mainly the thermo time switch, located on the front left cover? if it is not getting power it could be flooding, even though the backfiing indicates lean.

if this does not help, check fuel pressures, cold and warm.

[Cdnone1]

Can you point me to a thread or tell me how to check power to the warm up regulator?
Thanks

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

Can you point me to a thread or tell me how to check power to the warm up regulator?
Thanks

Steve,

The WUR, AAR, and TTV (thermotime valve, optional) get power from terminal #30 where the FP is connected. When the FP is energized, all the other accessories connected to terminal #30 also get power. So how do you get power to terminal #30 (FP relay)?

Remove the FP relay and with a suitable jumper wire with in-line fuse, connect terminals #87a & #30 and turn the inginition switch to RUN position (not START). You'll hear the FP run, the lines to WUR, AAR, and TTV (optional) are also energized. HTH.

Tony