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(man/dude)
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Loose valves - 4-5 thou' on backside?
Hello all,
Well, while I am waiting for clutch (repair) parts to arrive I am doing all sorts of fun things like setting my valves. I found that ALL my valves were quite loose, every single one would take a .004" feeler up the backside, some even a .005", and one a .006". So I've gone for a nice snug .0025" and am satisfied that I have done it correctly and quadruple checked them all. Of course the suspense is killing me....... will my car actually be quieter by a significant margin? will it run better, idle smother, and all that? It will be several weeks before I find out for myself. Thanks!! Jon |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
Posts: 3,059
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my personal experience is even when adjusted correctly, your valve train may be somewhat noisier after an adjustment. Valve lash tends to tighten (and become quieter) between adjustments.
Car should run smoother....how much so will depend on how long it's been since the last adjustment. But just because there may be a slight clatter doesn't mean there should be an irritating clash.
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() Last edited by kidrock; 05-27-2011 at 04:16 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Wilmington, NC USA
Posts: 635
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The spec is .004". You may damage your valves if they are too tight.
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69 911 2.3Ez 85 928S |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,435
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backside method is plus/minus. (ball park). the proper way, using the proper tool under the rocker swivel foot, is .004" exactly.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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The plus minus of the backside method is .0035" to .0042".
This method eliminates the need to develop a feel for the "magnetic" pull. People that do this for a living should have developed the "feel" early in their career. Those of us that adjust valves once a year, have no need to develop the "feel" with the backside method. With the backside method you can easily check the adjustment without loosening every valve. Saves time and is accurate.
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Doug Was 2.7racer. '76, 2.7 w/Webers, JE pistons, Solex cams. Elephant bushings front & rear, 23mm & 28mm torsion bars, big brakes front & rear, Pertronix. Track car. '85 3.2 stock, Orient red, comfy street car. |
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RETIRED
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With a big adjustment on all valves, I would suspect the "adjustment" b all fuch'd up......
But hey, I could be wrong.......
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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(man/dude)
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Quote:
I was under the impression that "go" with a .0025 and a "no go" with .003 was the way to do the backside method? This should net you at least .0035 at the valve, well within the factory spec? Anyway, didn't intend to start a debate on the merits of frontside/backside. Last edited by Jonny042; 05-27-2011 at 07:20 PM.. Reason: added |
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RETIRED
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Then make sure y'didz it right.....this ain't yer Daddyz Buick.....
I'm serious, if it ran well prior to the "adjust"....then.....hmmmmmm....know what I mean?
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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(man/dude)
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I haven't owned the car for long, but everything else I look at has bee half-assed or just plain wrong so I don't really have much faith in the PO's mechanic.
.004" x 1.4 = .0056"........ = every valve at least .0016 too loose. My only question was, is this going to make a big difference in how noisy the valves are? I mean, they weren't noisy all the time, only when the engine was running. And I'm pretty sure buicks have had hydraulic lifters since before I was born. |
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(man/dude)
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Quote:
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Registered
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I think Porsche 911 valve clearance actually increases as the engine gets hotter as part of the design. So, if you have clearance when adjusting, you'll have clearance when driving it.
Some other vehicles are set up so clearance closes when the engine warms up, which would make having adequate valve gap much more critical. I believe the biggest reason you need to make sure your valve clearance is within spec on a 911 is to allow the valve to contact the valve seat long enough while closed to transfer heat to the head, to help keep the valves cooler.
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Emery 1988 930 coupe - Silver Metallic TurboKraft 3.3L 8:1 CR, SuperSC Cams, GT35R, B&B Headers, TK intercooler, Tial WG, ARP, tecGT based phased sequential EFI & ignition, Wevo shifter/coupler, ... ![]() |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
Posts: 3,059
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Quote:
Why do we have so many other people that want to reinvent the wheel? ![]()
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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I have used a dial indicator to measure the 0.004" between foot and valve, is that an acceptable method?
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 200
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Kidrock,
Read my post #5 for your answer.
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Doug Was 2.7racer. '76, 2.7 w/Webers, JE pistons, Solex cams. Elephant bushings front & rear, 23mm & 28mm torsion bars, big brakes front & rear, Pertronix. Track car. '85 3.2 stock, Orient red, comfy street car. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lake Cle Elum - Eastern WA.
Posts: 8,417
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Amen Brother.............Been doing valves on motorcycles since 1966.....Just do it like the manual sez and forget all about this "go-no go" stuff.........Itn's not rocket science..........
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Bob S. 73.5 911T 1969 911T Coo' pay (one owner) 1960 Mercedes 190SL 1962 XKE Roadster (sold) - 13 motorcycles |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 2,674
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Because that is what the world is about. If man wasn't always trying to improve things and make them better we would still be living in the stone age. Times change and technologies change. Even Porsche changes things every year because they figure out how to do it better.
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james www.gruppe9autowerks.com Its not how fast you go...its how you go fast |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
Posts: 3,059
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I admit it, I'm a dinosaur. I've been doing it this way since I owned my first VW in 1980, and I just feel more comfortable doing it the original way.
I guess I find a little solace in knowing that a well-respected specialist still recommends doing it the way that Mr. Bentley and our own workshop manuals prescribe. Whatever floats yer boat, as long as the results are successful.
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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