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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mill Valley, CA
Posts: 204
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Just got my 72 back from the paint shop. When I returned home I noticed a sag on the duck tail and one on the headlight ring.I had it painted about 70 miles from here so i'm not bringing it back up there. The car is painted with 3 coats of imron. How can I color sand this out. What grit paper and what compound after. It's such a small area that i'm afraid that if i sand the sag, which will take some work, I'm going to sand through the thinner paint next to it. Any help would be great.
Thanks. |
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,492
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If it was me, I would take the car back even if you do have to drive 70 miles. Imron is really hard paint to work with. If you try to fix it yourself and screw it up, you can forget about them fixing your mess.
Ok, now that I got that out, if you want to try and do it yourself, first wait one week for two reasons: let the paint continue to cure out and, two, a week from now it might not bother you that much. Now should you decide to sand it out here is what I would do (and I have sanded out alot of sags) using 600 wet/dry paper cut the paper into lengths one-half inch wide and 3 inches long. Get a bucket of water. Drop paper into water and let soak well. Just using the tip of your finger work on the sags themselves and try to avoid the surrounding areas. Replace paper often (although you can use both ends of the paper) Don't get in a hurry BE PATIENT!!!!! This takes time to do right. Once the sags are almost, but not quite, flush with the surrounding area, switch to 800 wet/dry paper and use the same technique. When flush, switch to 1500 grit and lightly sand the scratches out. Next, use some Meguiars Number 6 compound and work on the area, switch to Number 5, then finish with swirl remover. All of this takes time. To be sure you don't screw it up just work on it for 30-40 minutes at a time. Kurt V 72 911E |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Londonderry NH USA
Posts: 198
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Kurt has the right idea. You should take it back to the shop that painted it and have them remove the runs. If they are reputable they will fix the problem without causing another. Sometimes it is just aswell that you fix it yourself if you dont think the shop will do it to your standards. Personally nothing leaves my shop anymore, if I cant fix something myself I get the tools and learn how. My two pennies anyway....TargaEuro
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I agree with all the comments, I'd just add that I've had the best success when I can get a flat edge on the run or drip. Try to wrap the 600 grit wet (also a little dish soap in the water adds a lubricating quality) sandpaper in a small flat block. That way you'll find you can remove the run and not touch the adjacent area as much.
At least it works for me. Bruce Herrmann 73911S |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 57
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go to an auto body supply store, not a chain like pep boys. tell them your problem. they have small blocks, about 1/2x1/2 of various grits for just this problem.
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Londonderry NH USA
Posts: 198
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Meguiars makes the sanding blocks that BMB is refering to. They do work well but they are expensive. The blocks must be soaked in water with a touch of Meguiars #62 mixed with it prior to use....TargaEuro
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 43
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Take it back, they wont have a problem fixing it; but you might have a problem if you try to...
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mill Valley, CA
Posts: 204
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Since I did half the body work, I'm willing to give it a try. Thanks to all for the great advice. Will wait a couple weeks for the paint to cure. It's at a shop having a new headliner and the windows installed. Then it is back to my house where i will spend the next 2 weeks putting it back together. Will post pictures when done.
Thanks again. |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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bodyshop supply stores sell a shaving block for this purpose. it just hits the high spots. it has a blade in it. hopefully the color is a solid, or the sag is in the clearcoat. if you get into the metallic, you will see a mark.
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mill Valley, CA
Posts: 204
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The color is solid. Will look into the scrapper method mentioned by walker's workshop. Thanks!!
P.S. I know I should take it back. I called the shop and that is what they said, "bring it back, we will fix it." I'm just one of those people that love to give things a try. |
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Try www.autobodystore.com they a bbs for ?like this and sell all the stuff to do it with.
Jerry 911SC |
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I do a lot of paint repairs with Awlgrip which is very similar to Imron.
Although all of this advice on how to cure it is very valid and interesting esp. the scraper suggested by J. Walker (must get one of those for the boat!) My choice would still be to return it to the shop. If they sand too hard they can respray! I have, in the attempt to blend in tape lines, burnt through to primer layers beneath the gloss coat. Unless the respray is the same colour and there are plenty of thick coats I would not attempt sanding!. Once you have sanded thru, you may be sorry!. Good luck if you do attempt it yourself though! ![]() |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mill Valley, CA
Posts: 204
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The hell w\trying this myself. Just brought it back to the shop. They didn't even noitice it when it was on the hanger drying. Me either though when i picked it up. Thanks for all the advice
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