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FIG FIG is offline
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Tacho jumping, lights dimming - '78 911SC

Hi All,

Just a quick one....

The Tacho started jumping around with no change in actual revs??? At the same time, the dash lights dim and then get brighter (not drastically).

All this happens for about the first 15mins from a cold start and then settles into SOP (if that makes any difference?)

Alternator ready to pack it in????

Cheers

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Old 05-09-2011, 08:48 PM
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Put a meter on the battery terminals......AFTER fully charging the battery....

12.5-12.8 at rest
13 at idle
13.5-14 at 2500 rpms
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
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Alternator ready to pack it in????
Yup.
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Put a meter on the battery terminals......AFTER fully charging the battery....

12.5-12.8 at rest
13 at idle
13.5-14 at 2500 rpms
Thanks Joe Bob, will check... not be liking my chances?

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Originally Posted by scottb View Post
Yup.
Hmmmm... hope your wrong scottb (but that was my thoughts too, just wanted 2nd opinion)
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIG View Post
Hi All,

Just a quick one....

The Tacho started jumping around with no change in actual revs??? At the same time, the dash lights dim and then get brighter (not drastically).

All this happens for about the first 15mins from a cold start and then settles into SOP (if that makes any difference?)

Alternator ready to pack it in????

Cheers
The very first thing I would do is remove/clean/burnish/tighten ALL connections, positive & negative/ground, between the battery core and the alternator. Don't overlook the front to rear positive connection at the engine starter solenoid and the ground strap between the engine and Chassis.

Probably the alternator but the regulator is a LOT easier to get to and change out. Then on the other hand if you end up having to change out the alternator the "new" (Ebay) one will likely have the regulator built in....

If you use a voltmeter to check for voltage variations the best place to do that would be back near the engine. Across the battery you will get only average system voltage.

The CDI design flaw is the source of the tack jumping and it's responding to the LOCAL system voltage, voltage in the engine compartment.
Old 05-10-2011, 07:03 AM
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Immediately prior to my cdi unit going out the tach was jumping. The occurrence was on a 1971 914-6. I had the cdi unit rebuilt all problems solved.
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:07 AM
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Immediately prior to my cdi unit going out the tach was jumping. The occurrence was on a 1971 914-6. I had the cdi unit rebuilt all problems solved.
You sure you didn't also replace the alternator or regulator at the same time or shortly thereafter..?

Tach jumping is the result of "self-firing" of the SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) within the CDI, which is the result of the CDI capacitor charge exceeding the breakdown voltage of the SCR. DC-DC upconverter, 12 volt to ~300, is unregulated so 12 volt system going significantly over-voltage will result in tach jumping.
Old 05-10-2011, 07:49 AM
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a LOT more common for the regulator to go out....
Old 05-10-2011, 01:18 PM
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a LOT more common for the regulator to go out....
I'd thought the same thing too. But my experience has been that the lights got brighter when the VR was about to take a dump.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:21 PM
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After my experience with our '78 Targa I pretty sure that an intermittent short within the alternator stator windings was the BASE problem. In addition to the tach jumping if/when we hit a good solid bump the engine would just quit.

The bump would cause the windings to short, maybe only a single phase of the three, the alternator output voltage would drop accordingly, the regulator would then increase the rotor current, possible substantially so, to compensate.

The short would clear almost immediately and the alternator would run for the next few (10-100-200 milliseconds) with a severely "pumped up" rotor current.

The SCR begins avalanching, self-firing, due to the momentary 16-18 volt supply, the tach jumps into the over-rev range, the rev-limiter opens the fuel pump relay circuit and then latches up itself due to intolerance to the over-voltage.

The engine QUITS.

The only way to "clear" the latched up rev-limiter is to turn the ignition off for 4-10 seconds.
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Thanks for all the advise guys, very much appreciated!!!

I'll start the problem solving (conections, grounds etc etc) and work through as per all the suggestions.

Hope to have some good news, quickly ???

Cheers again!
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Put a meter on the battery terminals......AFTER fully charging the battery....

12.5-12.8 at rest
13 at idle
13.5-14 at 2500 rpms
Ok, so...

At Rest - @ Engine 12.84V / @ Battery 12.71V
At Idle - @ Engine 14.03V / @ Battery 13.72V
At 2500rpm - @ Engine 14.08V / @ Battery 13.84V

Also, what is the box under the voltage regulator as a lead comes from it to the regulator, and is there any 'visual' signs the regulator is toast?

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Old 05-11-2011, 03:48 PM
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Some good readings.....must be something else......was the tach bouncing when you got these reads?
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:56 PM
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No it wasn't Joe Bob, the Tacho bouncing pretty much only happens on cold start (or when the car has sat for a while) and lasts about 15mins. Unfortunately I had driven the car already.
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
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Ok, so...

At Rest - @ Engine 12.84V / @ Battery 12.71V
At Idle - @ Engine 14.03V / @ Battery 13.72V
At 2500rpm - @ Engine 14.08V / @ Battery 13.84V

Also, what is the box under the voltage regulator as a lead comes from it to the regulator, and is there any 'visual' signs the regulator is toast?

It's been awhile since I took one of those modules apart but I seem to remember it was a capacitor pair to filter the Alternator PWM switching rate electrical noise from interferring with the radio.

I would temporarily "bridge" a small motorcycle or lawn tractor battery into the 12 volt alternator output circuit in the engine compartment to check and see if that abates the tach jumping.

Your measurements mean NOTHING absent knowing the level of voltage ripple riding atop the base DC voltage. You might try a voltage reading using the AC scale provided the measuring device, DVM, DMM, etc, uses capacitor coupling for that function.
Old 05-11-2011, 05:56 PM
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Ok, so after 2 cold starts the 'Tacho jumping' thing hasn't happened?

After further investigation with a Multimeter, I've found that when the heater blower (engine compartment) is activated by the floor levers, the voltage drops from 14.03 to 13.5ish? After trying all the other electrical items in the car (other fans, radio, wipers, defroster etc etc) this seems to be the only thing that interfers with the voltage.

Could this have something to do with the jumping (which as I said hasn't happened now for 2 days)?

Also, should the heater fan motor take a few seconds before activating (the relay I'm guessing) after the levers are raised?

Hmmmm?
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIG View Post
Ok, so after 2 cold starts the 'Tacho jumping' thing hasn't happened?

After further investigation with a Multimeter, I've found that when the heater blower (engine compartment) is activated by the floor levers, the voltage drops from 14.03 to 13.5ish? After trying all the other electrical items in the car (other fans, radio, wipers, defroster etc etc) this seems to be the only thing that interfers with the voltage.

Could this have something to do with the jumping (which as I said hasn't happened now for 2 days)?

Also, should the heater fan motor take a few seconds before activating (the relay I'm guessing) after the levers are raised?

Hmmmm?
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIG View Post
Ok, so after 2 cold starts the 'Tacho jumping' thing hasn't happened?

After further investigation with a Multimeter, I've found that when the heater blower (engine compartment) is activated by the floor levers, the voltage drops from 14.03 to 13.5ish? After trying all the other electrical items in the car (other fans, radio, wipers, defroster etc etc) this seems to be the only thing that interfers with the voltage.

Could this have something to do with the jumping (which as I said hasn't happened now for 2 days)?

Also, should the heater fan motor take a few seconds before activating (the relay I'm guessing) after the levers are raised?

Hmmmm?
No delay on my '89 heater fans...

I wouldn't consider it abnormal for that amount of voltage drop when loaded....different fans will pull different currents..

CDI is off my list of ANY expertise or experience (sorry).

Maybe something IN the tach...

BEST!

Doyle
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:44 PM
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It seems it is the external voltage regulator.

Have you tested at higher revs than 2500?

Anything above 14v is dangerous, and the CDI can easily fail due to overvoltage.
Old 05-13-2011, 03:34 PM
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Ok, so Update...

This morning (damn crazy cold ass Melbourne morning mind you!)

My Tacho decided to start the 'jumping' scenario, being the first time in about a week it has happened (weather related?)

I quickly grabbed my multimeter and tested the voltage at the engine (whilst on idle).

16.90V

Switched ignition off and restarted, all good.

Voltage Regulator Kaputzki or on the way out????

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Old 05-17-2011, 04:17 PM
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