Ball joint installation socket
 

The Ball joint installation socket for the lower front strut mounting point says that it is for installation only. Part can be found here on pelican parts..
Ball Joint Pin Wrench Socket, 1/2 Drive, NOTE: For INSTALLATION ONLY, 911 (1965-89), 914 All, 912

Question is why is this for installation only.....looking at the socket it would appear to be a simple design with no unidirectional specific fittings...

I know what it says. ....but why?

Picture of the tool
 

Oh wow, check it out. They must be reading my posts.

because it is made out of soft metal and will probably deform/break if you try to use it to untorque a nut which is corroded in place.

I wondered the same thing. It apparently the tool usually just breaks removing the nut.

When I did my ball joints I just used a dull tipped air hammer. Just put the tip of the hammer on one of the teeth of the nut and pull the trigger. It loosed right up. It was a very easy and fast way to get them loose.

My ball joints came with new nuts so the old ones were trash anyway. They go on with something like 160 ft lbs of torque.

well.........
 

Rusnak......I have never been accused of reading other peoples post;)

Maybe I was just looking for a conversation on a boring friday......


But I guess you guys did provide some insight.....I would not think that it would break...It seems to be beefy enough....but I could be wrong.

Wow, thanks guys I guess I will go with the air hammer idea and proceed... SmileWavy

The nut and the balljoint flange where it fits into the control arm should be greased before tightening it to 183 foot pounds.
The grease lubricates the threads so it screws on easier and gets torqued properly and helps keep it and the ball joint moint flange from rusting as quickly.

Use a hammer and chisel to remove the nut when it's been there a while, but if you wanted to remove it right after installing it for some reason you could probably use the expensive special ball joint socket without damaging it.. I havn't tried it though.

With the car on jackstands use a floor jack with rags or a piece of carpet on the lifting pad to hold the torque wrench snug up against the nut so it doesn't slip.

That tool is pretty much a one time use. It gets deformed in the process of torquing. Use the hammer and chisel as JFairman suggested to remove.

No, not you. I was talking about Pelican. No such warning existed when I bought mine. I ruined the pins the first time I tried to loosen the balljoint nut. I was looking at it and going "wtf, what do I do now?" Well, lightbulb went off, I realized that I have a 3' long pipe wrench and a 4' long box steel tube. I used the pipe wrench on the nut, and it came off so cleanly it didn't leave a mark on the nut.

I re-installed the same balljoint nuts with new balljoints (didn't come with nuts), with some copper grease, and used the fancy tool with a torque wrench, placing one foot against the inside fenderwell.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TOL-P210

It's a quality SIR tool made in Germany and will last a long time if used properly.
I borrowed a practically new one from a friend when I replaced my ball joints and the 4 dog teeth in the socket looked exactly the same before and after I used it.
If you only get one time use, you're not using it correctly.

Did it with the car on jack stands and a floor jack holding the torque wrench and socket up on the bottom of the ball joint nut so it wouldn't slip. I sat on the ground with one leg up over the torque wrench handle and foot against the inner fender well to push against so I wouldn't pull the car off the jack stands or slide myself closer to it.

Lower back does most of the torque work in that position and was a little sore the next day.

I used a pipe wrench /with an extension to get mine off and had the garage torque the new ones on the C/As.

My Back
 

Well, the info is good.....I guess I need a larger Torque Wrench...
Im glad to see so many other people have been in the same spot.....meaning Im not going at it alone.

Thanks guys...will let you know how it goes..

Chris

I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel and they were off in no time. Just cut and pry apart so they slip off or cut twice and let the 2 halves drop. No sore back, no busted knuckles, no torn up tool.

The Rusnak Technique:

Pipe Wrench
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...605_131426.jpg

We had the proper service tool but all it did was strip the nut and ended up using Rusnak's recommendations, worked like a charm. Installed it too with the Pip Wrench :eek:

This is what I used as well, that POS tool I bought would not bite enough.

We even tried the "using the spare floor jack for support technique to no avail :(

Car was too low to use a 600lb ft SNAP ON impact gun.

I use the cheap 4x4 tool from NAPA with air gun to take off, then reassemble with the good tool and torque.

Draco: ouch! I hope more people just use the pipe wrench to start with - it would save a lot of folks a lot of trouble.

Agreed Dr Rusnak :D.

My buddy was doubtful but he in now a Believer, Thanks Again!

I did not have air hammer in my arsenal, started with liquid wrench, dremel, heat, after 1 hour made some calls, borrowed an air hammer and had both sides off in a few minutes.
Air hammer is the way to go.