Dual Jacking SC Rear End Questions
 

I am trying to figure out the best way to jack the rear end to get it up on jack stands. Here are some methods that I have seen and one that I have not noticed. The first I have not noticed.

1. Dual Jacks Under Sway Bar Body Attachements: Is it possible to put a jack on each side of the car in the rear under the sway bar body attachments? Would this be acceptable?

2. See-Saw Method: Use side mount jack plate, one side at a time. Though I feel very hesitant with this method.

3. Transmission Plate (where the transmission mounts are attached): Local Porsche shop recommended there, but I started jacking and the engine/tranny were moving more then the body. It seemed I scraped off some of the undercoating just fore of the transmission mount, but I stopped before I went too far. I am thinking my transmission and motor mounts need replaced, part of the reason I want to jack up the rear end. :)

4. Engine Sump Plate or Rear of Engine: I see a 50/50 mix of do and don't use this method, I would rather not go this route but will consider it.

5. Wheel Ramps: I have ramps and could use them, BUT what if I want to get the rear of the car higher.

6. Engine 2" by 2" (or so) Stamped Boss (front of engine/rear of car): I have seen people mention this as a suitable lift point also. My concer is same as my number 4.


I have done a number of searches but I am still on the fence with a number of methods. I appreciate any insight.

Thanks,

Chuck

I've been thinking about a way to jack the rear for years.

I use the "2. See-Saw Method: Use side mount jack plate, one side at a time."

What I'm considering is a bar that goes across the rear and attaches easily and quickly. Maybe on the tow beams going out to the bumper mount area???
I did see a guy here using a Gantry and two "extensions" on the rear wheel hubs. But again you need to remove the two rear wheels.

Normally use 2 x 4 blocks on the hydraulic lift under sump plate get as high as I can then jack stands under the end of torsion bar tubes, then see saw till required height.

I use a 1 foot square piece of 1/2 inch plywood on the sump plate then slide the jack stands under the torsion bar housings. Pretty much the same as Daviboy.

Maybe a variation of #2;

2 jackpad, 2 2 jack and a buddy to raise both side a the same time???;

Once you are on the ramp(#5), do you have enough room to put the jack stand under the torsion bar?

How about #7;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307181551.jpg

I do the engine sump if I am raising the rear just high enough to remove the wheels. If I go higher, I use the see-saw method. The absolute best is a lift, but see saw method uses the designed jack points. The see-saw could become dangerous if you try to reduce the number of times back and forth and creating a steep angle from side to side. I'm chicken and rarely have a side to side height differential of more than 6". It's more back and forth, but it's safer. One of these days I will buy a second jack which will make it much easier.

I would love to buy a lift, but there is too much slope in my garage floor right now so I would need to replace a section of my garage floor. Need to think about that one.

Chuck,
Not sure if an 82 SC has the round sump plate or not, that may affect where you can place the jack under the engine, however, for as many years as I can remember, if I want both wheels off the ground I have always lifted the rear of my cars by placing the jack under the engine.
In the pic below, if I am lifting the car, I place the jack pad in the area of the black circle.
If I am dropping the motor, the balance point is where the jack is positioned in pics. I made up a plywood adapter that is screwed to the jack plate and fits under the crankcase at the balance point.
Back to topic - do not be concerned about jacking the whole back end of the car by placing the jack under the engine. Even if your mounts are stuffed, it will still work OK. You may want to put something like a wad of newspaper between the jack pad and engine to avoid marking the crankcase.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307191145.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307191220.jpg

Great question.

I used to use the see-saw method until I got a lift. It is the safest in my opinion.

I lifted from the sump many times. But one time the sump plate bent - not good because the internal oil pump is just above the plate.

They do sell rear tow / jack pads which would be ideal. I have one but never installed because I'd have to get a couple of longer case bolts to properly fit it.

I use #2 (see-saw method).

The other option I've done with a friend's car was "synchronized floor jacks" with two plates, two jacks, two jack operators...

+1 on method number two.

One last question, can you just see-saw the rear end? Or do I need to do all 4 corners (front and rear)?

Thanks,

Chuck

You can just see-saw the rear end. I recommend blocking the front wheels.

Slightly off topic but vitally important for Chuck or future readers:
Do you:
-have quality jack stands?
-know where to place them?
-how to test that the car is properly setup on them?

Stuff like this shouldn't be relegated to majority vote (FWIW, I disagree with the popular vote).

Here's a search thread on the subject with a couple of threads I listed for emphasis:

Pelican Parts Technical BBS - Search Results

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/330931-did-my-po-jack-car-sump-plate.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/105936-ok-lift-rear-jacking-under-engine.html

Sherwood

OK, I used the "see saw" method today. Worked fine, though very slow method for jacking the car.

Another question, how long can I keep the rear end up on jack stands under the torsion bars?

Thanks,

Chuck

In my case, about 12 years. Probably not close to the limit though.

Sherwood

Time is rather cheap compare to repairs...