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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 59
Plan for 1971 911T

Hello, Pelicans, I've been reading and learning. Thanks to all who generously share their knowledge and experience!

I have a 1971 911T, with S trim, matching numbers. The body is basically sound, a few minor rust spots, and several dents from a run in with a tree limb. The paint is badly faded and flaking in spots, there was an original color repaint about 20 years ago. The engine hasn't been started in several years because of an electrical problem, but was otherwise strong. Interior is ok, except for the door pockets and the seats, where the cloth inserts have worn out. It's time to get this Porsche back on the road! I toyed with the idea of a 3.2 conversion, but after reading here, the following is my tentative plan:

Step 1: Get it running and drivable, using the checklists and procedures offered in other threads.

Step 2: Repair body, fresh paint; freshen up interior.

Step 3: Replace/Upgrade suspension components for street and autocross use.

Step 4: Upgrade engine, 2.2 presently has Maraelli distributor and Zenith carbs.

I will be doing most of the work myself. Your comments and suggestions are appreciated!


north central Florida
Old 06-04-2011, 04:03 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Clayton NC
Posts: 1,453
Wow, long time between posts. As many have said before, these old long hood Porsches are becoming more and more rare. Most would say keep it as close to stock as you can. That is the path I took with my 70T. The only big changes I made were to go to bosch distributor and PMO carbs. Redid the rest. If I were you I would absolutely root out all the rust you mention and kill it. Everything else can be relatively easily to deal with. It's actually a lot of fun and very satisfying. Good luck.
70T coupe forever almost done
88 Carrera Targa diamond blue
Old 06-04-2011, 04:25 AM
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jjwood's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: just east of the Woodlands, TX
Posts: 926
My '71T has been a loooong project (25yrs prox). Started modifying way before prices went crazy -- who could of known. 71T was the belly button Porsche cuz everyone had one.

My advice is take your time and stay the course. It'll be worth it in the end.

Early in the process

Latest version

1971 911 Wide One 2.7
2012 911 Cabriolet
2011 Cayenne S
Old 06-04-2011, 10:36 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 59
Thanks for the comments - Jeremy, I like the orange; Gary, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I don't believe there's much rust, but sometimes you can't tell the extent until you get into.

Old 06-05-2011, 06:31 AM
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Grady Clay's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
First, WELCOME to Pelican
You will find a lot of help here.

Recently Pelican 924CarreraGTP purchased a 911T similar to yours.
It had had an electrical issue, sat for a looong period and he purchased it from an estate.
He has been addressing a series of common issues, usual for this age 911 having sat.

Look at ALL his threads (there are many for each issue).
Here is a starting point:
Bosch 3 pin CDI dismantling questions

You will (most likely) have a similar series of issues to contend with.
Address all the running and safety issues first.
Get your 911 running and safely driving.
Then address issues like paint and interior.

You have a good plan.
Before you do anything else, have someone with lots of Porsche chassis rust experience inspect your car.
If the 911 is rustier than you think, you need to know this before anything else.

Since the distributor is always a problem, not the least of which are no parts, buy and recondition the appropriate Bosch distributor.
That and new cap, rotor, wires, plug connectors and sparkplugs bring that system to new with your ‘new’ CDI.

The Zenith carbs can be cleaned and made to run acceptably.
I would postpone PMOs until you have the engine running and re-broken in.

Remove the valve covers and chain covers and inspect for rusty engine parts.
Check to see if the original chain ramps have been replaced with the latest plastic variety.
If not, replace them (5 of one kind, one of another).
The chain tensioners can be easily rebuilt with an inexpensive kit of new seals, etc.
Oil everything with heavy oil.
Check the valve covers and chain covers for damage and flat.
Install new (latest) gaskets.

Inspect the sump screen and cut apart the oil filter and look for signs of any damage (pieces of anything and ‘gold’ color metal flakes).
I recommend you remove the oil tank for cleaning. You will need a new gasket for the oil level sender and a new O-ring for the oil filter console.

I recommend you remove and clean the fuel tank.
There is a filter screen that is part of the outlet fitting. That should be removed and cleaned.
You will need a new gasket for the fuel level sender.
If the gasket between the tank and chassis need replacing, there is a home improvement store replacement. (Make sure it is fuel resistant.)
You should replace ALL the flexible fuel hoses with OEM hose from out host.
Be sure to use the Norma-Schellin (N-S) type hose clamps and not the common ‘screw-type’.
Replace (or install) the fuel filter at the engine.

Your electric fuel pump is under the left end of the rear torsion bar tube, just inboard of the chassis.
This might be an opportune time to move it to the front suspension cross member (like ’69-’70).
That Bosch pump is very expensive and high quality. Preserve it best you can.

Drain and replace the transmission oil. (Loosen the fill plug first.)
Inspect the magnetic drain plug for debris.
If you need more inspection, remove the shift pivot and look inside. (You will need a new gasket or O-ring.)
Use regular 85- 90W Hypoid gear oil.

How old are the tires?
This might be the time to research what you want with tires & wheels.
What wheels are on your 911T? ‘Appearance Group’ (S-trim) can have any of several: 5½x15 Mahle 10-spoke, 5½x14 Fuchs (usual) or 6x15 Fuchs.

One of the most common (and dangerous) malfunctions from setting is the brake master cylinder failing.
The failure mode is damaging the seals allowing brake fluid to leak at the pedal assembly (where you can’t easily see).
The brakes function normally (sorta) until the reservoir runs out of fluid.
Then suddenly – “NO BRAKES”.
Replace both the master cylinder and the four rubber flex hoses with new OEM parts.
Cycle the pistons in the calipers (Do one-at-a-time, don’t push one out of the caliper.)
Inspect for leaks. If any of the eight pistons aren’t free, have all four of the calipers rebuilt.
Replace the pads with new (Make sure the pads are free to move in the calipers.)

Once you have it safely driving, then assess whatever else you want to do.


ANSWER PRICE LIST (as seen in someone's shop)
Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75
Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25
Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50
Old 06-05-2011, 08:38 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 59
Wonderful info, Grady! Thanks for the info and suggestions. It's a '71, but actually constructed in late '70 - the fuel pump is located at the front. The wheels are Fuchs, 5 1/2 x 14.

I appreciate the help.

Old 06-06-2011, 03:11 PM
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