Problem fitting the brake line, caliper
 

I have problems fitting the brake line to my caliper.
1971 - 911t, rear

1. Has the rear calipers "cone shaped" fitting for the oil line?

When I installed new rotors, SS brake lines, pads, etc. on all 4 corners of my early 911 I also had a difficult time starting/threading the hard brake line into two of the calipers while the calipers were bolted in over the rotors. What I did was take the calipers off, and then installed the hard brake line into the caliper first and then I installed the caliper onto the strut assembly over the rotors. However, the hard brake lines are flexible to a point but be careful not to put too much stress on the hard brake line in doing so. Hope this helps.

I have already dismounted the caliper with difficulty, and the hard line seems to have an non coned fitting, while the caliper seems to have coned treads.

Is this the case, the caliper has coned treads?

I can't remember and recall with certainty if that was the case with mine. For some reason I thought the flared/tapered end was on my hard line & not the caliper itself; but then again I did the brakes a few years ago. Any possibility of posting a picture?

Remi,

No, the caliper does not have ‘coned’ (tapered) threads – they are straight.
There is a taper/cone to the end of the pipe and a matching cone/taper in the seat of the caliper fitting opening.
The seal takes place between the conical end of the pipe and the mating surface in the caliper body.
The ‘nut’ fitting serves to provide the sealing pressure.

I agree, it is easiest to start the threads with one component ‘free’.
That can be either the caliper or pipe.

Have you changed any of the components?
There are some ‘close-to-fitting’ but ‘no cigar’ combinations of DIN, SAE and other.

When installing the pipes, I move the fitting up the pipe and liberally grease the space between the nut and pipe for corrosion protection.
When the fitting is at the end of the pipe, I wipe off any excess grease.

If you get where the fitting won’t get started, take both components off the car and get them started.
Reinstall loose and tighten after everything is bolted/clipped back in place. Don't forget anything.

Particular aggravation is the big, flat ‘C’ clip that retains the rubber hose.
To remove, I grab it with a Vicegrip and pry against the pliers.
Reinstalling is done carefully with Porsche Special Tool P-1 (BFH) and grease.

Hope this helps.

Best,
Grady

Problem is, I can't get the fitting started. Even if I took both elements of the car and put them on my workbench.

I don't understand the last part, I have installed new rubber hoses and the flat 'C' clip. I didn't use any grease or special tool and it was maybe little tricky but not very much.
Where did you apply grease?

I think Grady is suggesting to apply grease to both sides of the "flat ‘C’ clip that retains the rubber hose." That clip has a tendency to rust which will make it difficult to remove in the future.
As far as not getting the fitting started...Do the threads look OK?

Grady is referring to the hard pipe and the space between the furled end (taper that mates to the inside of the caliper) and the rotating threaded piece that you are having trouble inserting into the caliper. Slide the threaded piece up or away from the furled end. Grease the pipe or use antisieze and slide it back down to thread into the caliper. Wipe of excess away from the furled end so you don't get it into the caliper.

I am wondering if the hard pipe you are having trouble with has the wrong end at the caliper? Have a look at the other end.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307738998.jpg
Only the right side line has the correct shape.

Mine had the wrong shape. Is this shape for both sides, the caliper side and the hard line side?

Is the coned shape on the right side correct for both ends of the line?

Yep, cone shape metric fittings. I got mine from Pepboys.