How to mount Weltmeister skid plates

[Brorag]

I am redoing my '87 cab suspension, part of which is to install the Weltmeister "spoiler protection skid plates (drilling required) pelican part# PEL-Sp7002".
I searched the web. There has been no definitive answer to this issue. There are lots of opinions and favorite orientations, some involving a 4th dimension, none of which resolve the "drilling required" requirement.

Yes, I know, I need to get a life. Welcome to my world.

There are 2 types of mounting locations, both appear to be tie-downs that were used when the cars were shipped from Porscheland. The above part# assembly clamps the tie-downs between the skid plates.




The guys at pelican suggested I call Weltmeister.

A careful web search resulted in my finding an accordion maker.

Subsequent calls revealed that the part is contracted out for mfg and sold by Automotion, owned by Ecklers Automotive Company in Titusville, FL. I finally got past the sales people to Bobby Varela (bobby.varela@ecklers.net) who promised to sort it out and call back.
His call back reveled..............no call back yet.
Details at 11.

[pete3799]

You got something against accordions
I only have 1 tow hook (driver side) If that's your case i would think some welding rather then drilling would be required.

[Brorag]

Bobby.Varela@ecklers.net
I cant find my under body pic…the first pic shows the early style tow hook…the second pic shows the late style pic. The skid plate gets attached to tow hook…I have a buddy taking a pic for me and emailing it to me…I will call you after lunch…

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[Brorag]

[Brorag]

The tie down is integrated into the protective bracket from 1987—1989 as shown.
On earlier models, there appears to be a piece of round stock welded to the same bracket.


The tie-down has been straightened and painted for corrosion control. Note wear on tie-down.

• Sandwich the skid plates as shown, using the existing hole in the center of tie-down.
• Align plates as shown. Note that the remaining 2 holes in skid plates are centered between parts of the tie-down that are solid/showing no holes.
• Tighten the center bolt/nut snugly, but where you can align the plates so they are parallel.
• The front of the skid plate sandwich should just touch the front point of the protective bracket where it forms a notch by bending to an ~90 deg angle.

• The rear of the plates should align so that they are even with the lower rear part of protective bracket to minimize the possibility of it being snagged should you have to back off an obstruction.
• Tighten the center bolt, making sure the alignment is maintained.

Drill the remaining two holes, using the skid plates as a template.




The drilled hole is smaller than the Weltmeister plate hole. I drilled the hole as far forward as possible, given the direction of the force applied if the plate contacts an obstruction.

• Completed assembly, showing washers assy’d as per Weltmeister catalogue photo.
• I inserted the bolt from the inside, having the locknuts face outward towards the wheels, in case there may be interference during the suspension re’assy process.
• If assured there was no interference, I would probably reversed the bolt/nut orientation for aesthetic reasons.
• In the kit from Pelicanparts, the bolt head is 13mm, and the nonslip nut was 1/2".

Finished sub-assy. On the car, the top/bottom orientation is reversed.

[Brorag]

I just rcv'd call from Bobby Varela of Ecklers Automotive, owners of Weltmeister and Automotion, confirming the installation shown above is correct. He is now working on a similar instruction for pre-1987 pcars which used a piece of round stock as a tie down.
JD

[Rot 911]

How much lower is that than the stock piece? Seems like it just creates more problems than it solves.

[Brorag]

Rot,
About 3/8",depending on where on the circumference the measurement is taken. The distance from the bottom of the skid plate (after it had been straightened) to the road surface is now -3/8".
Note that there was a good bit of metal rubbed off the original tie down after I straightened it.
My tie-downs were bent and significantly chewed up, which means that now something else scrubs first.
I figure it's got to be the front spoiler, or the cage around the A/C front condenser, either of which are more expensive than these plates.
Your circumstances my be different--If your driving surfaces are such that you're never bottoming out, you probably don't need them.
I've just spent a bunch of $$ on a new front condenser, and figured this was cheap insurance.
JD

[911pcars]

On the early wire-formed tie downs, the WM skid plates merely sandwich around each existing tie down. The nuts/bolts serve to clamp the plates in place. Adjust to suit, then tighten.

Sherwood

[RoninLB]

those brackets saved me a few times

lost one on the last ride along with the wire and the remainder was folded sideways and just snapped off when i went to straighten it at home

the new act is the Rennline front tie downs which actually bolt into the 3 holes going to the tub

i saved the little fuch'er as a reminder of wild times

[D911SC]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

On the early wire-formed tie downs, the WM skid plates merely sandwich around each existing tie down. The nuts/bolts serve to clamp the plates in place. Adjust to suit, then tighten.

Sherwood

I have this style only on one side which I assume it normal. Does this mean I only install the skid plate on one side of the car?

I ordered the plates and got sets for both sides so wasn't sure if I needed to make up some sort of bracket.

Darren

[Brorag]

I would suggest mounting on both sides.

Those wombats popping into the road can be a real bumpy problem down there, especially since they spin the opposite way due to the correolus effect.

Rons new setup (above) is a consideration.

If you bump into my kid in Melborne, tell him to write more often.
JD