por 15 substitutions???

bob tilton · bob tilton's Garage

looking to find a product to treat the surface rust on susp pan near a-arms. local body shop supply suggested a product called First Step. any one familiar with this product?
tx
bob

Jim T · 03-01-2002, 11:27 AM

POR-15 . . . there is no substitute.

Rot 911 · 03-01-2002, 11:37 AM

I agree with Jim T. Having used POR-15 products on a number of vehicles, nothing else compares!

joehahn · joehahn's Garage

kurt, et. al.
have you used it on floor pans? Mine has not reached an 'emergent" level yet but I would like to reinforce the flaky bottom part that inevitably will be bad in a year or 2.
I am looking at the catalog right now, p.18., floor pan resto kit. Is it like bondo or is it more like tape that is wet then hardens? Either way, 120 bucks seems like a no brainer.

Thanks,

Joe 68 L

Rot 911 · 03-01-2002, 11:56 AM

Joe, glad to see you are still toiling away on your car! The kit you are looking at is for floor pans that have holes in them. All you really need, assuming you have no holes in your suspension pan, is the POR15 Rust Preventative Paint. A pint will be all you need and only set you back $20.00! This stuff is thicker than regular paint and dries to a hard ceramic like coating.

jpnovak · 03-01-2002, 12:18 PM

POR-15 is the only way to go.

Just wire brush the area as clean as possible and then paint it. Incredible results. Kurt is right it dries to a very hard finish.

Jamie

pwm74 · pwm74's Garage

There are so many products at por-15 , must you use all those other prep chemicals first as suggested or is it just a gimmick. do you guys just brush really good and apply.

Rot 911 · 03-01-2002, 12:39 PM

Jamie's much too modest to show you, but he has done some very nice work on his car. Here is a pic of his suspension pan that he painted with POR15:

and yes I really do just brush and apply. I only used the marine clean and etcher when I used the POR15 gas tank sealer. The Rust Paint will even form loose rust into a rock hard surface, although I always use a wire brush to get as much rust off as possible.

joehahn · joehahn's Garage

kurt,
What if the wire brush MAKES a hole! Then i need the kit! Last question, was your car on stands or did you jack one side at a time?

Clark Griswald · Clark Griswald's Garage

There is another product that you might consider. It is called RustMort.

It is not a paint but a metal prep/rust treatment. I imagine it has active ingrediants similar to por15.

This stuff turns rust into a black coating and does a good job of preventing return. You apply a few coats of it, letting it sit for a few hours between each. Then you wipe off the excess with a damp rag.

Then paint with whatever you like. I've used it on body parts and suspension parts with good results.

You can get this stuff in automotive paint specialty shops. It is much cheaper than por15.

Rot 911 · 03-01-2002, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Clark Griswald
There is another product that you might consider. It is called RustMort.

It is not a paint but a metal prep/rust treatment. I imagine it has active ingrediants similar to por15.

POR15 is not the same. I've used RustMort prior to priming and painting. Rustmort is a rust convertor and POR15 actually binds and puts a hard coating over the rusted area.

And Joe, in response to your worry "What if the wire brush MAKES a hole! Then i need the kit! Last question, was your car on stands or did you jack one side at a time?"

Not to worry, just go to the hardware store and buy some STEEL wire screen material, not the nylon material. Paint around the hole with some POR15, cut the wire screen to size with some overlap, and with the POR15 still wet, lay the screen over the hole and then paint with the POR15. It will then make a solid surface. When I replaced my front suspension pan I placed jack stands under the A-arms back where you can adjust the torsion bars.

Early_S_Man · 03-01-2002, 01:22 PM

Dupont and PPG recommend the use of 'conversion coating' products under most of their primers, if rust has been encountered. I have had excellent results with 'Oxy-Solv' and PPG DP 40/400 Epoxy Chromate Primer ... a two-part epoxy product that has been recommended in Excellence restoration articles for many years.

Except on the doors of my old Datsun 620 truck ... ask Superman Jim about his rusted Datsun doors!!! They rust from the inside out from trapped water!

The Oxy-Solv leaves a Zinc Chromate layer where the rust was formerly! And, it is sold by J.C.Whitney at very reasonable prices!

epbrown · 03-01-2002, 06:32 PM

Can you sand POR-15?

Emanuel

Jim T · 03-01-2002, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by epbrown
Can you sand POR-15?

Emanuel

yep.

bob tilton · bob tilton's Garage

thanks guys. i wanted to work on this project this weekend but may have to postpone til i get the juice mail-ordered. does pelican sell the juice? don't see it listed. if not, who has good prices? also, can i go ahead and use the juice on the a-arms and bushing collars or should i use an enamel paint? tx.
bob

dtw · 03-01-2002, 08:45 PM

www.por15.com

-the juice man (I got Jamie hooked)

Superman · 03-02-2002, 08:01 AM

Warren's Datsun (rest its soul) was a Texas truck so you can imagine the rust issues my rain forest one has. Repair is no longer an option.

I am sure that the best late-generation rust-killing paint works great. I have always used "metal prep" prior to painting rusted things. It is an acid, available from auto paint stores. If in doubt, perform this treatment first. It is not expensive. Just wire brush then apply the metal prep (I forget what kind of acid this is) and the rust turns colors righre before your eyes. Apparently, it does something special to the rust which changes its chemistry and makes it not rust anymore. In other words, it is no longer rust. It becomes less brick-colored, and more orange. Stabilizes it and halts the rust process. Then, I'd paint it with the POR-15 or something. This would be a very secure, stable rust repair.

I've mostly done this inside gas tanks, where it works wonders. I suspect POR-15 contains this "metal prep" acid. Don't store it in a metal container and don't leave it on the metal too long. It's still hungry after it eats the rust.

Planter91C2 · 03-02-2002, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bob tilton
thanks guys. i wanted to work on this project this weekend but may have to postpone til i get the juice mail-ordered. bob

if you are anxious to start, call the 1-800# on the por-15 website to find a local dealer. that is what i did.

bob tilton · bob tilton's Garage

planter,
thanks for the good idea but they don't answer phones on the weekend.

well, i've got plenty of parts to strip and wire brush til next weekend. plus the adjustable spring plates, 24 mm torsion bars, new poly sway bar bushings can go in while i wait. i've already replaced the trailing arm bushings.

i want to use the juice on the pan area around the a-arm mounts, a-arms, collars, and crossmember. then i'll re-install with new poly a-arm bushings, tubo tie rod, f swaybar bushings, new ball joints and "new used" non-pitted 19 mm torsion bars. aside from removing all the above, i have only managed to add a strut brace in all the planned front end work, but that's got to count for some progress

.

bob
68 L

kepperly · kepperly's Garage

where you guys been. take a look at "Eastwoods" corroless
they invented that stuff for off shore oil rigs. its again a brush on that in the pint size can covers 25 sq ft. and is heat resistant to 500f. only about $15.00 a pint if memeory serves. tricks from the
muscle car days.
keith