Front suspension problem.
 

Right side wheel is more inner than left side, also rubbing on "inner" side. Camber was just checked -1.5 on both sides. Strut spindle should be ok, i measured gap between rim and shock, it was equal. Maybe A-arm is twisted ? Any ideas ?

check the part numbers inside the wheels. Sounds like your offset if wrong with one wheel. If they are the same swap wheels left to right and eliminate the wheels as the problem. You could also have different sized hubs, so check those when the wheels are off too.

Offset is same at both sides, that was a first thing to check. I will look for hubs next. A-arm bushings are not so good, but unlikely thats the problem for this issue ? But must be fixed also.

http://carrera.kuvat.fi/kuvat/IMG_0153.jpg/_big.jpg

Where is it rubbing? When? These cars are not perfect and there are commonly variations here and there. For instance, my tire clearance in the rear is not the same on both sides. Plus, if you're talking about rubbing at full lock, that is very common. Even the stock 185/70-15s rubbed at full lock on my car...

Its rubbing only at the other side (into body,not fender), i know rubbing is more or less normal, but wheel really is approx. 1 cm more inner than other. Measured from chassis. I just got the chassis dimensions measures, so have to check those as well..

You may be able to remedy it with an appropriate wheel spacer, to keep the wheel just far enough from the body.

Yes i could, but problem is still there. So i skip spacers :)

You need to answer the question of where on the chassis you are getting rubbing.

Just how did you take the measurement which tells you that your rim on one side is 1cm closer to the inner fenderwell (chassis) than it is on the other side.

Twistig of the A arms isn't likely, you would have seen it, and couldn't do this anyway.

The ball joint mount at the end of the A arm can get worn and enlarged some, but not 1cm, certainly not without your noticing it is loose.

The aluminum reinforcing crossmember can't move from one side to the other, as it sockets into its chassis mounts where the two bolts that hold things on go.

The only other thing involved, really, would be the rubber bushings. If one side wore in, and the other side wore out, perhaps the total offset might be 1cm?

You say you have equal camber. How equally positioned are the camber adjusters up on top of the strut tower? If the strut towers were both bent a bit toward the same side, that might have this effect, but this seems unlikely to me. And would probably show up as unequal gaps on either side of the hood.

Most of us who run fairly fat front tires just live with full lock rubbing. Or we install a stop on the steering rack so it can't be turned as far. And it isn't always symetrical rubbing.

Problem solved, driver side a-arm attaching point was.. well take a look.. vanished. I could push a-arm in with no problem and im not the guy who has been in gym lately, it was really soft. So thats why whole suspension was "bend"....

Car is 1989 model, i was like whatta *uck. But reason for this was simple, in her earlier life a battery acid has made a way out... result is this.

Now im waiting new parts to arrive any day now.

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Almost there...

In these areas of your replacement pan:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310359465.jpg

Did you install what the aftermarket sheet metal vendor did not include (at least per your picture):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310359554.jpg

If not, I would suggest you weld around the perimeter of the reinforcing piece you have on the underside of everything.

I had the welded in nuts rip loose on me on my track car, which had a similar reproduction repair panel. The nuts were stoutly welded to the exterior piece, but that piece was held to the main sheet metal by only about six little spot welds.

Later I learned that the factory sheet metal had this interior reinforcement. It stiffens the tops of the "nut" pieces on end, and provides a better distribution of forces across a larger area of sheet metal.

Hi, yes i did install LCA reinforcing parts, just no picture there :)

It's amazing how many people have had this problem... I just did this on my 82 SC. I got it back on the road literally 3 days ago... I feel your pain...

I noticed your post just now, and your situation was ever worse than mine :eek:

This should be done day after tomorrow, i sprayed second etching primer today and tomorrow rock guard and then paint and done :)

Camber was equal and measured as - 1.5 at both side. But camber adjusters was not equally positioned on top of the strut tower.. so what does that mean :confused:

I added one more etching primer layer and then today i sprayed OEM rock guard . Tomorrow paint and finally its ready :)

http://carrera.kuvat.fi/kuvat/IMG_0183.jpg/_big.jpg

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http://carrera.kuvat.fi/kuvat/IMG_0197.jpg/_big.jpg


Done !

Here we are now, and no more suspension problem :)

http://carrera.kuvat.fi/kuvat/IMG_0213.jpg/_big.jpg