My shifter went to complete slop this weekend. I am sure its the same bushing ( number 12 ).

My question is this....

Pelican lists their shift bushing kit and the J West kit. Anyone have a preference and if so, why?


http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0821/POR_0821_TSHIFT_pg1.htm#item2

Thanks

G50 shifter bushings.
 

Recently bought my '87 Carrera. Apparently well looked after west coast car with 122,000 miles and service records. No record of any gear shift bushing replacements. Gear shifter feels precise and like new, but shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears sometimes has slightest "gear touch" (more so when cold). I suspect syncros beginning to be worn, but symptom might be aging shifter bushings. Any advice?
Thanks.

So weird, mine too. I was making a 2-3 shift and wondered why the throw felt longer with the noticeable sound of metal-on-metal contact. Well, looks like the ball cup bushing finally failed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdxBsDyPyqo

Done. Well, actually only the shifter assembly is done. I still have the console and the shift knob to install tomorrow.

Total time is around 2 hours installing (doesn't include taking things apart). Cleaning and greasing takes around 2/3 of it. The hardest part is the little o-ring. I use a little flat screw driver to jam it in little by little, probably around 10-15 tried (with little grease). Once the fat pin went in, twisting the white T plastic back and forth a bit then everything goes in place.

Hint:
- I pop the cup ball bushing on the ball first, then install the shifter into the shifter housing, then place the ball thing in the shifter before install the whole assembly into the car. With the "zip tie" as a hook to pull the shift rod up, it went is easy. In fact, my shift rod went in very smooth without any force.

- When I shift into 2nd and 4th hard/quick, I always hear the impact feel/sound. I discovered that is the part of the shifter hit on the rear bushing (shift rod bushing). What I do is to shift into 4th, and adjust the whole assembly a bit to the front, giving it around 1/4" space, before I bolts it to the car.

Thanks everyone

No opinion on which kit is better?

I used JWST-G50-BUSH. Most people said it was tight to get the shift rod through the bushing. In my case, it's was easy, with some grease. Maybe, people were using the other kit?
I drove the car twice after bushings installed. Everything is good, as before the problem happened.

I'm an idiot and have my console out but have yet to remove the shift assembly. What does it mean to "mark the housing on the tunnel"?

I don't want to mess this up.

I tried to muscle the cup bushing on to no avail.

I think what Dragco meant was that ... the hole bolts on the shifter housing allow you to adjust the assembly a little bit forward and backward. Dragco meant to mark the shifter housing on the console so that you can reinstall it at exact position where it was. I forgot to do this so I needed to adjust it when reinstall, but that was my luck. I think my last comment should be for this area:
"- When I shift into 2nd and 4th hard/quick, I always hear the impact feel/sound. I discovered that is the part of the shifter hit on the rear bushing (shift rod bushing). What I do is to shift into 4th, and adjust the whole assembly a bit to the front, giving it around 1/4" space, before I bolts it to the car."

Thank you!

That makes sense after looking at the assembly again.

I'll knock this out later this week. My center console is already apart anyway.

Replacing the ball cup bushing took all of 10 minutes after I got everything apart. I just massaged the shift selector off, popped on the ball cup bushing, then moved the assembly around, popped the shift rod into fourth, massaged the piece on by hand, and bolted it back up without ever pulling the shift rod off the bushing.

Very easy job and the car shifts like butter now.

To get the assembly out do you remove the pivot pin #14?

Chris
89 Carerra

Yes. Remove pin. I just did this used J West kit.
Used lots of silicone spray. Works great!

Ordered the J West kit. Looked at the linkage. It's very different from the 915 linkage. Same ball cup disintegration issues apparently.

Chris

So here is the trick to getting the shaft into the housing when reinstall the assembly. I struggled with this for hours like many of you. The transmission likely popped out of 1st gear when you were removing the housing. Access the coupling door and have the wife or a helper depress the clutch pedal. While it is depressed force the shaft back towards the engine. It will engage in either 1st or 3rd gear. Now return to the assembly and slide it in and on to the shaft. Many hours of frustration is solved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hadn't thought of that, good tip.

This is a very helpful thread. I felt something go while driving to Chicago this past weekend. Sure enough the black cup bushing was cracked and separated.

Like most Porsche projects you need to clear away various components like the heat control and hand brake to free carpeting to get to the third console retaining screw. Maybe some of these pics will help. I’m getting a head start while I wait for replacement parts from our host.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661908636.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661908717.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661908776.jpg




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661908838.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661908886.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661908933.jpg

This is a very helpful thread. I felt something go while driving to Chicago this past weekend. Sure enough the black cup bushing was cracked and separated.

Like most Porsche projects you need to clear away various components like the heat control and hand brake to free carpeting to get to the third console retaining screw. Maybe some of these pics will help. I’m getting a head start while I wait for replacement parts from our host.

If that one is bad...you should check the coupler in the back of the car as well. If you end up doing both, do one then get it back together and adjusted...and then the other. It is hard to get back adjusted perfectly when both are off.

Don't put more than a smear of grease on the ball or it will hydrolock and not let the ball into the cup. Put it in boiling water to get it pliable before install.

Yeah, you can replace just the cup bushing, but if the cup bushing has deteriorated, it's almost certain that the others are not far behind. If you need to get it fixed quickly for now, fine, but plan for the rest too.