Door bottom rust. Million dollar question....
 

I've read many posts/ articles on the topic of replacing the bottom few inches across the door where rust usually appears. I've had a quote for 8k + to do both doors (panel beating is expensive in oz) so I would like to tackle myself.

From what I've read these are the most common methods:

• Butt weld new bottom strip
• Lap seam/joddle/over under new piece
• Glue new piece
• Plug weld supporting strip

My concerns are:

• Butt weld. Lots of heat. Neat to be a real pro at welding
• Tricky again and need to be very good at welding. Creates a negative ledge on the inside of the door for water to collect
• Glue . The 356 forum has a great article on this method using hi tech glue but I remain skeptical

The final method is best described in this excellent article
Door Rust Repair - Autobodystore

This last method appears to be the easiest and most effective. I like the fact that one doesn't need a lot of welding experience and it will generate less heat than the other methods. Any thoughts please?

Rols, why not just buy a pair of dry SWB doors? Even with shipping via slow boat I think you could come in at a reasonable number and have a good product. Hell, you could have the doors completely stripped and e-coated and then shipped to you for final body work.

$8K (AUS?) Even if U.S. that is crazy money. Like stated above, buy a couple of SWB doors in the U.S. and have them shipped.

Import option
 

Yes panelbeaters live like millionaires in oz. Big money if you are very good.

I was stung badly last year when I imported an engine from Douglas valley breakers sight unseen (I understand it's politcally incorrect but these guys are crooks).

I guess that has put me off importing anything unseen, particlary when it's under paint and issues may be present even unbeknown to the vendor.

I would prefer to repair properly and know the job is done correctly.

I'm considering to move to Australia... Opening a new Body $$$$hop $$$$$$oon! :D

get a mig welder and a sheet of 18 gauge steel.
Sit in the shop and practice welding on the flat sheet until you can write your name with the welder.
You are then ready.

The rest of the work is work.

Rich

Roland ...tell im e's dreamin...

call Jason Bobruk at Real Steel Restorations 02 62391129. He and his father Luthi are great metal shapers.

Also for some perspective I am aware of a coach builder in US who has been quoting approx 2k to make an entire door in Alum.

Mental note send you the template for the ply pedal boards.

cheers

Michel

Sorry to hear you got burned on the engine. Why don't you try to find a Pelican who has the doors available, someone known and recognized on this forum. Or maybe someone here who fits the bill can step up to help? Everything I've heard about rusty doors is that it's easier to find some in good condition used and repaint than fix the rusty ones (being an owner of such a door, attached to my car, I have a personal interest in the subject).

Good luck with this!SmileWavy

Hi Rolly,

If you can't find some good clean rot free ones, I can put you onto a MUCH more reasonably priced panel shop about 20-30 minutes from you in Ringwood. They are a first class mob who completed some work on my Range Rover last year... and do plenty of other exotic stuff too. I was VERY happy with the result.

Oh and if you must do, there is a cheaper guy just around the corner... I haven't used him yet but will be in the next month or so.... actually planning on dropping some 911 lower body parts down to him next week... Seeing as I also have a couple of doors needing repair (and intrusion bars added) I'll ask for a "ball park" quote for you and PM you if you like.

Hoo-Roo, Dave & the crusty carrera

I'm not positive...but is there not a complete door skin available?
I have replaced door skins on several cars over the years...a fairly easy task because the is no real welding involved.
The old skin is completely removed and the new one slips on from the bottom...then the edges are folded over around the sides to "crimp" the new piece in place.
I would investigate this idea...perhaps it would save you time and money...plus...all exterior metal would be new.
Bob

You don't say the year of your car, but entire door skins are $285 each at Restoration Design They also have the lower 6" available for $48 each. This assumes, of course, that RD has the parts available and can ship. This has been an issue in the past.

My vote is to weld it if you're going to tackle the job. Do it right the first time! If you go to the Pelican paint and body forum, I'm sure the experts there can help you every step of the way.

Good luck. Let us know what you do.

Dude. . . you know you could fly to the US (or wherever), get some suitable doors that are nice (relatively cheap, $100's, not $1000's), ship them back to Oz and not have to do hardly any repair, for FAR less than $8k. I don't know where you are getting that-the guy is smoking crack.

Porsche 911 doors

1974-1989 PORSCHE 911 DOORS-BARE-NICE CONDITION-BEST OFFER

Just trying to help, maybe a pelican can check them out for you.

Warner

If you dont want so much heat in the weld, try silicon bronze wire with an argon/co2 mix. Smooth flat weld and finishes easy.
Bruce

Ditto

Get some more quotes... Try Jason Carrol at Checkered Flag in Bayswater Chequered Flag Restorations - Home

Other choices include using later doors (pretty sure there is no visible difference). You could flange and lap weld or use a glue as you can see and get to the rear of the weld for this repair, but I'd still butt weld...

Costs
 

The cost is a lot which is why I'm DIY ing however:
this includes gapping
It's silver paint with clear so he will need to shoot he whole side of the car
Hardware for door refinement, rubbers etc

For the melbournites- my quote is from one of the best in town so naturally they are expensive. If you have someone who just does the metal, has a reasonable turn around time and is competaively priced I'm all ears.

Thanks for the replies.

Hey on this theme theres something for you to ponder.... I believe there will be a day where early 901's will be worth big money. Sure it might be a while but as these beasts are chopped up, raced or modified good clean original ones will become hard to find- particularly when in RHD format. Once cars start pushing 60k - 75k + authenticity becomes a big deal. I know with 356 panels are stamped with matching numbers etc.

Where I'm heading with this is that i believe it's important to keep the integrity of the car. Irrelevant with what I'm doing as it's a Frankenstein but thought it worth mentioning nevertheless.

Quite right and even though doors from the last manufactured 993 will bolt to the first manufactured 901, the later doors have MANY different features, holes, bolt locations etc. It pays to do it right BUT if your existing doors have rust in the bottom seam then there is little that can be done to save them.

These cars rusted out within 3 years of leaving the factory back in the day. . .

Original panels
 

But dont you think that an original door with a new bottom peice is better than a non original door? With the right sound reading on the inside it will be difficult to pick?

Does anyone have any thoughts as the the best attachment method?

Thanks again for replies....

Any thoughts?
 

I've decided I definitely want to take the pepsi challenge and replace the bottoms myself. Can anyone pls advise as o which is the best method? Thanks rolls