Anyone have ITB's with A/C ??
 

As much as I love the fact that my car is lightened. I simply do not drive my car enough because it does not have A/C. I know, call me a candy ass. However, I am not racing to make money. That having been said: I am willing to gain weight for comfort.
What I have is a 86' coupe' with Jenvey ITB's on a well massaged 993 based engine which is 3.9 liters. DTA etc..., too much to list. It does 350hp to the wheels which equals heat as well.
I hope to find a solution to cool the cabin on summer days, so I can enjoy the car in what is already a short season in the upper Midwest.

Here is a picture of the engine. Thanks to all that might help.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309796117.jpg

Check out Singer Vehicle Design (most people already have). Look for engine shots of the green car. Looks like a tight fit but it's possible. I believe it also uses a 993 engine as a starting point.

Might be a good excuse to look up the owner of the green car I think he is in WI somewhere.

I have AC (sanden compressor) with PMO ITB's. The fuel rail (PMO) is abit long.

This was a major project. I cut the SC AC brackets so it would sit 1 inch lower, shopped belts at my local NAPA to get one the right length.. and I have 1/8 inch between the fuel fitting and back of compressor.
Eventually I plan to do a custom fuel rail on that side with the fuel line tapping the bottom of the rail instead of the side. This would make the stock position work or give me a full inch which would be nice.

I am in houston, its 93+ every day from May 1 - October 15... so driving with no AC isnt remotely an option.

Yes, it can be done and as I understand it there was a bit of cussing involved....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309821235.jpg

It appears to me that my conundrum might involve different throttle bodies than my present Jenvey's.
Or, I need to source a compressor that gives enough room. I can re-locate the TPS and the fuel line. However, if I do that I still have no room, from a depth standpoint, for compressor or belt alignment. Hard to tell from pictures of manifold configurations etc.. Thanks to those who chimed in. Keep em coming. I would rather skip the multiple cuss session this is looking to become.
All the best, Steve

Yup- got it
 

My mechanic (Matt Hazlett @ TPWS in Austin TX) made this bracket and we mounted the compressor on the left. No dizzy MoTeC running dual COPs.

http://gallery.me.com/richard_lucian...13099640880001

Then we mounted up the compressor. Uses a 928 part for the belt tensioner.

http://gallery.me.com/richard_lucian...13099640810001


Cut out the driver's side battery box and added a 993 condensor up front. :)

Cool air in 100+ central Texas

Thank you for all the replies so far. Still looking for a solution that is somewhat painless (LOL).
All the best, Steve

Picking up this old thread in hopes of finding some more recent solutions. Am planning to keep my AC while converting my '83 911SC to an EFI 3.2SS. Current thoughts and questions below.

PMO ITBs with short stacks and short filter assemblies allow decklid condenser to remain in place.
PMO ITBs also allow my Kuehl compressor to remain.
I am aware the passenger side fuel rail may need customizing for proper fitment.

Will fabricating an idle air control manifold for the PMO ITBs, used in conjunction with an IAC valve, give me enough idle air to have good/excellent drivability in all street conditions? I am particularly concerned about super slow-speed driving like parking lots, etc, constantly on and off the throttle/brakes.

Any other challenges or tricks folks have encountered in keeping Air Cond with an EFI conversion?
Any other ITBs recommended which are designed to keep AC?

Thanks for any assistance.

Ren Tilden
Winter Park, FL

Electrocooler and then you don't have to worry about it on the engine....

plus one on that. I ended up going with the classic retrofit system. It works well and the weight is up front where it belongs.
As far as an IAC. In my opinion I don’t think you need one unless you plan on the idle being about 800rpm. Also keep in mind the elaborate plumbing involve to make it happen. I don’t think it’s feasible. Usually something used with single throttle bodied engines where the bypass air is easily routed around the tb.
Enjoy your project.
Regards
Steve

I appreciate the advice re: Electrocooler. If I hadn't recently spent a bundle on a new Kuehl system, I would consider it. But the Griffiths system works great, and I couldn't justify removing it.

Fredie- Thanks for the opinion on not needing an IAC valve and the additional complications it brings. I like an idle of 950RPM, and even 1000RPM is OK (with AC off) if it allows decent drivability when the AC is turned on. I just don't want the engine decelerating and dying with the AC on, when throwing out the clutch and hitting the brakes.

Any other thoughts or experiences from anyone reading would be appreciated.

Tuning
 

Most modern EFI systems will be able to be tuned to compensate for so many variables it will make your head spin. Don’t sweat it and pay the money to have an experienced tuner lay out a good program on a chassis dynamometer. It should not die with air on and decelerating with the throttle closed....
Be advised 911 engine parts are expensive as you know. Broken parts are worthless.
Be patient and do it right. You’ll love the raw and visceral feel of ITB’S. And the sound is awesome as well.
Regards,
Steve