2nd gear

fstar · 03-03-2002, 12:42 PM

All right transmission guys!!! Need help bad! I was out driving with the top down, first of the year, and was up around 5G andshifted from 3rd to 4th and heard a slight noise...everthing did seem fine until i tried to go into 2nd! stopped and started in 1st but it will not go into 2nd. I went in and relaced the coupler that i have been meaning to do (between the seats).
Am i toast???
thank you guys for your help!
steve

tbitz · 03-03-2002, 02:08 PM

Can you put it in 2nd and feel the familiar clunck but the car doesn't move or you can not physically move the shifter in the 2nd gear location?

fstar · 03-03-2002, 03:05 PM

it will not go in 2nd at all.....

Jim Sims · 03-03-2002, 03:33 PM

I'd first check to make sure your shift coupling is adjusted correctly. Disconnect the front spline clamp and see if you can pull the tranmission into second by grasping the coupler with your hand; sitting in the driver's seat reach back and roll the coupling to the left (counter clockwise) and pull it forward to try and move it into second (clutch pedal depressed). If you can get it into second this way try readjusting the coupling per the instructions posted here in the Pelican tech articles. In this doesn't work, check the drain plug magnet for debris

before doing this ensure you can loosen the transmission fill plug as you'll need to refill later with a about 3/4 a gallon of Swepco 201. If there's metal debris on the drain plug magnet then it's time for an overhaul IMO. If no debris, then check to see if your tranmsission's guide fork has come loose on the guide fork cover plate (it has four nuts attaching it to the bottom of the transmission). You'll need a new gasket when you pull this cover plate. If the guide fork is loose, tighten or reattach (it's held onto inside of the cover by 3 nuts w/ washers, tighten to 6 ft-lbs) it to the inside of the cover plate. Then as you reinstall the cover (torque nuts to 17 ft-lbs) ensure the fork captures and guides the pivoting side lever of the selector shaft. That's all the "easy" things I can think of. Jim.

Early_S_Man · 03-03-2002, 03:36 PM

Steve,

Don't drive the car at all ... until some checks are done, and the diagnosis is definite!!!

1. Drain the gear oil and catch it in a spotlessly clean pan, and pour it up into a large, clean glass jug, gallon size ... to check for chunks/broken metal pieces in the oil! Or, cover the drain pan overnight, and pour it off slowly after it sits overnight ... and carefully examine any sediment or broken chunks of steel that settles out of the gear oil.

2. Remove the Guide fork cover -- trapeziodal cover with four M8 (13 mm hex nuts) studs toward the front of the transaxle. The guide fork is bolted to that cover with thre M6 nuts ... and they have been known to come loose and cause similar shifting difficulties. Also, with the cover off, the gears and synchros can be observed to a limited extend ... except for 5th and reverse, of course!

fstar · 03-03-2002, 04:35 PM

WOW!! thanks guys... i will begin with your suggestions tomorrow after work. i don't know anything about tranmissions but by the way you both describe the possible fix it does sound like i may not be "toast" after all. Thank you very much!!!

fstar · 03-03-2002, 05:56 PM

WOW!! thanks guys... i will begin with your suggestions tomorrow after work. i don't know anything about tranmissions but by the way you both describe the possible fix it does sound like i may not be "toast" after all. Thank you very much!!!

john walker's workshop · 08:02 AM

you most likely blasted all the little teeth off the 2nd gear press-on syncro ring. that would be the little bits in the drainplug magnet. (sometimes, there's nothing in the magnet, like the last one i pulled apart, so don't automatically rule that out). the syncro ring and brake band and stop dogs are now free to roam around inside, and they like to go thru and break as many gear teeth as they can. that's why you should not drive it until it's diagnosed. if you get in there to fix it, be sure to also replace the 1st teeth whether they look good or not, to avoid having them fail later.

Doug Zielke · 03-03-2002, 06:40 PM

Ouch!
That's a fine (if expensive) image for "Doug's Mechanical Mayhem Image Files".
Thanks, John...I hope I never see *that* in my gearbox!

Jim Sims · 03-03-2002, 06:52 PM

Steve, John Walker may be right if you shifted into 2nd instead of 4th like you think you did (a sloppy and worn shift coupler could easily let this happen) but your post makes it appear you made it to 4th successfully. Did your engine over-rev when you let out the clutch in "4th"? If it did, you likely hit 2nd, and may have worse problems (engine issues) than a blown 2nd gear synchro assembly. If you get to the drain the oil/inspect the oil/look at the drain plug magnet step: the fill plug is located on the driver's side of the transmission just slightly above and behind the throttle linkage bell crank and the drain plug is on the bottom of the differential housing. Be warned that transmission oil smells badly. These plugs do not have seals; they seal by virtue of having tapered threads. Do not overtighten them when reinstalling; the correct tightening torque is 17 ft-lbs. The guide fork cover gasket is paper; its Porsche part no. is 915.303.225.00. You may have to buy it as a set with the other two paper gaskets. These paper gaskets should be rather inexpensive. Take care scraping off the old gasket; use a piece of wood or plastic as a scraper to avoid marring the gasket sealing surfaces. Good luck.

Jim

fstar · 03-04-2002, 11:11 AM

The "noise" or it could have been a feel, happened coming out of 3rd going into 4th, no problem and on to 5th. (I am sure I did not go into 2nd by mistake.) After I came to a stop (not down shifting) and began in 1st then it would not go into 2nd. As i was a few miles from home i had to drive it and all the gears but 2nd worked fine with no noise at all. hope this narrows it down a bit.
thanks again!

fstar · 03-07-2002, 04:41 PM

John was right!! Did as he suggested and guess what i found...a 'ho bunch of teeth!! Not sure what to do now...get a rebuilt or have this repaired?? looking at the possiblities.
thanks to all you guys...not sure what us newbies would do without you!!!

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

The Magic 8 Ball says "Rebuild Now"

BTDT

john walker's workshop · 03-07-2002, 06:33 PM

generally, the cost is around $1500-$1800, including R+R engine/trans. cost depends on what you find inside. if someone just brought in the trans, you can deduct $300 from that.

howie944 · 03-07-2002, 09:15 PM

As soon as I saw the receipt I knew hwere it was from...Had to scroll to see shop name. I have one from the same place sitting next to me but for different work (work recently done on my 944). I trust that place with my life. They do quality Work and "Frank" is an "old school" kinda guy. A regular 356 guru and damn good on 911s also. Always willing to take a few minutes to discuss your real or imagined problems. Hope you were as satisfied with them as I am.

masraum · 03-08-2002, 12:39 AM

Awesome! I like how on the bill is says

Make

Porsche!

Anytime the guy writing the bill puts an exclamation point after the word "Porsche" you know you're in good hands.

Looks like some of my bills, P-wrenchs must all have the same handwriting.

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

I've got an invoice...looks just like the one above...except in Canadian dollars.

It was my first gear that was toast....

Oh well, it's only money. Good thing they give it away for nothing up here!