A/C fuse
 

I have a 76 S with the dealer installed A/C. Can anyone tell me where I might find the fuse? Found the fuse while trying to remove the blower. Anyone with tips on how to do this?

In the smugglers Box? Our host has it.

or

#2 Fuse on the #1 Fuse Block.

removed the blower and dropped 3 of the 4 clips. Pulled the condensor PITA. Thanks for the non help.

Hundreds of people get excellent advice on these forums everyday.
You.........well good luck.

Oh M :)

If they attempted to stay OEM, then it would have been inside the smugglers box, passenger side wall. If not there, then just try to follow the wires, they may have located near the fuse panel, it should be a Box type relay, Metal Bosch or:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...161510301-M206

If you will note I already found the fuse I was asking about the blower motor. I will refraine from the gutter talk.

I am very familiar with my 3.2. A/C system, maybe too familiar, not by choice. I am trying to understand your question here?

Could you elaborate a little more? SmileWavy

If the blower motor went out, then it would be a melted or blown fuse #2 and the Fuse Block panel #1. If melted, it may look good but I bet it is loose due to heat shrinkage. I've had this on going issue for over 3 years, finally replaced my fuse block, all well now. The fuse block over time and useage creates too much resistance and melts or blows the fuse when the A/C is on.

By the way I was not complaining about DRACO, more help than most. There are no factory A/C in 76 all were dealer installed.

Can't we all just get along :-o

So the motor stopped but is the compressor still running in the engine bay or is the clutch just spinning? If blower shuts down then the compressor should not engage.

Jim

Hence my hack job comment. They were kits installed by Joe Bob the lot guy. Instructions were not always followed and there were more than one supplier.

The only thing worse were the radio installs.

Yeah, it all stopped, found the fuse melted on the fuse block/ relay and the motor nearly froze. There just is very little information that can be found. Will replace the motor. The good part is the plenum seals were all dust and the evaporator was dirty. So after cleaning and sealing it might be a little more efficient going forward.

Yeap, that is what was happening to me for the past three years. I alwasy attributed to just an old 911 AC system. Then kind WWEST and Gerry aka 1986 911 led me the right direction, first I check the voltage readings at the connectors and then swap my bad Fuse Block #1, cheap from the dealer $21 plus $4 for two new rails. The new block was not exact, I had to clip of a riveted rail in the back to match the OEM block. Bingo checked the temps at the fuse and it was 70 degrees rather than 140 degrees prior to the swap when AC was on HI. ( I posted a Thread about it )

If she continues to melt at #2 fuse, consider swapping out the fuse block.

At the Penlum if you remove the Bow Tie ( if dealer installed it ), removing it will help with flow and cool down to boot.