Broken PMO carb studs : AT THE CARB BODY (not the manifold to block stud)

[Geneman]

HI peeps. I broke three of these on one carb body awhile back ( in the paddock at a race .. re setting float levels ). using a high torque snap on electric ratchet. snApped like a twig.. (I know. I am an idiot... ask K. Lehman. he will confirm!)

I had the carbs on the bench today: on 2 of them there was still a nub to grab onto with my trusty lock jaws. well the focker snapped again, farther down into the body. turns out these studs ( seem to be SS) are red locktited in. WTF?

Has anyone dealt with this issue ?

Should I just drill them completely out and replace with thru bolt and nut?

or just ignore?

thanks again to all in advance .. FRANK

[Cory M]

Before you drill it out completely you should at least try to use an extractor. Get a new drill bit in the right size, drill it down the center, get the extractor in it and heat up that red loctite with a small torch to soften it up, then give it a go.

I had a linkage pivot break off (fatigue) in my PMO carb several years ago. I planned to fix it myself and just needed the part but Richard told me to send it in. He fixed it for free and sent it back. I heard PMO sold recently so that may not be an option anymore.

[1QuickS]

I've fixed many of these on Webers, I use my Bridgeport and by using the unbroken studs you can determine the center spacing between the studs. Then you can use a center drill followed with a 4.2mm, right hand drill. Heating with a torch will kill the Loctite, typically you will hear the Loctite pop. Then drill through, typically the drill will drive the remnants of the stud out. If you do the job with a hand drill you will probably drill off-axis. That's OK, you can install a Helicoil to repair the threads in the body. If drilling by hand be sure to use a fresh bit and put the top cover in place to help align the drill.

Loctite red is for studs and non-removable fasteners and blue is for items that need disassembly.