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front oil cooler line removal

Has anyone tried or had any success removing these lines by carefully dremmelling the nuts on these small lines to the front oil cooler and hard oil lines?
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:16 PM
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Yes, but they will come off with a big ass crescent and vice grips.......maybe heat if really stubborn.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:26 PM
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The nuts came off the brass lines on my car without too much trouble but the nuts on the other end were fused to the threads on the aluminum cooler. I removed them with heat and a very long breaker bar but the aluminum threads were destroyed in the process. If I had to do it over again I would go with the dremel method. Good luck.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:50 PM
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I removed mine over the Winter when i changed the oil cooler seal and the thermostat ...
Use a torch with the MAPP gas (yellow bottle) and don't be afraid to apply the heat and soak it with lots of PB Blaster !

Takes a little more time but it's a safe way to do it without taking out the threads ...
I think i used my spring plate eccentric bolt wrench and a crescent wrench which i grinded the opening to make it bigger on the fittings as they are different sizes !

Cheers !
Phil
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:05 PM
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Just to finish off this thread...What a SOB to remove these nuts...brass fittings came apart with torch heat cycles and and PB blaster over and over again...the oil cooler nuts however were a completely different story..no amount of heat or lubricant was going to get these to release..even after cutting them they wouldn't even turn with a wrench. I had to tap the cut portion of the nut with a screw driver and hammer to get them to spin off. Luckily they cleaned up and the threads were not damaged and nothing entered the oil system. If anyone is doing this for the first time, remove the oil cooler from the car once you get the brass line nuts off and it is much easier to attempt to cut the oil cooler nuts off. Cutting those nuts is like doing cataract surgery with a dremmel.
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:20 PM
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I need to do this, dremel ready
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:56 PM
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Wish I had gone with the dremel method in the first place, it would have saved me quite a bit of dough.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:27 PM
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I just did this. Big wrenches and heat did not work. First nut, I used a dremel to weaken the nut, then a chisel to spin the nut. That worked. Next nut, I skipped the dremel part, and used a chisel to make a notch, then spin the nut. That also worked. Point is, you might not have to conduct the hair-raising dremel surgery, and just use a sharp chisel to spin the nut loose. Once I had a decent cut in it, I put the air chisel on it. That worked great, but jumped off a few times, damaging the pos trombone that I was getting rid of anyway. Just be carefull with the air chisel.
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:20 PM
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I had to dremel an oil line nut. I made 2 cuts at 180 degrees to each other. I very lightly tapped with a flat blade screw driver and separated the halves perfectly/easily.

I found this easier than the single cut and chisel method. I was too nervous about damaging threads.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:21 PM
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Stubborn fittings.....

I could not get the oil lines off of the thermostat in my SC, but I was able to remove the ends at the front and engine. So I dropped the thermostat with front and rear lines attached and made this tool to remove the frozen nuts on the thermostat. I supported the thermostat with a 4 foot long pipe wrench and put the plate wrench on the nuts and whacked the wrench with a large ball peen hammer. The wrench is cut from a piece of 1/2" steel plate. It is a fairly tight fit over the nuts and transfers blows from the hammer better that a regular wrench would have done. The nuts came off intact without damaging the threads on the thermostat. Some pics:



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Old 08-16-2011, 11:48 PM
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Here in the Northeast rust belt, when we replace a leaking hose, we never take the risk of damaging the thermostat. Dissimilar metal electrolysis causes the steel nuts to bond with the Aluminum threads.

The nuts are always cut to weaken them with an air cutoff wheel, then soaked with penetrant. After letting them sit overnight, we shock them w a air hammer and a round, blunt nose chisel to knock them loose.

So far, we never had one to damage the aluminum threads.

On those rare occaisions when the hose or the brass line is still good and you must cut off the nut, our friends at Elephant racing have a cool split ring washer for fitting a new M30 nut.

It allows you to save the hose or line and its still less costly than damaging a thermostat.

Len


Last edited by BoxsterGT; 09-26-2011 at 02:40 PM..
Old 08-17-2011, 03:24 PM
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I'm facing this to address leaks with these hoses but now am worried I'll damage the threads. Just to clarify, the threads don't offer any sealing function in the situation do they? So if I nick one using a dremel it won't result in a leak?
Must just leave them on there and ignore the leak...don't want to have to replace the cooler.
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Old 09-11-2017, 10:05 AM
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why dremel? you don't want to save that rotten line anyway?
just cut at nut-level and now you can acces it nicely with a socket grabbing it 360




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Old 09-11-2017, 10:20 AM
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OK...hadn't thought of that! Thanks! I assume lots of PB Blaster in order to make sure the threads don't come off with the nut.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:09 AM
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in 99% they wont.
if yes, the lines have more serious probs to adress.... and there are repair adapters that cut over the humps (as seen on fvd-brombacher.de)
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:19 AM
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The absolute best penetrant I have found is a mix of acetone and ATF (automatic trans fluid). I had my trombone cooler off today in prep for a real cooler. Dripped some of the mixture on the fittings, waited 10 minutes, a touch of heat from a propane torch and both came loose like they were installed yesterday.
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:01 PM
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Was looking this tonight and the hard lines are really close together...wll be hard to get a wrench in there to get the other end off, not to mention the ones on the oil cooler end. Is acetone something I can find at Pep Boys or O'reilly's? I've heard about ATF being good for this.
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:57 PM
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Replacing fender mounted oil cooler lines pictorial

Sorry the pictures are dead, photobucket sucks!

Using a dremel with a cutoff wheel is how i had to get my lines off. Cutting the nuts is easy, dont be too concerned about cutting into the threads on the cooler... if you go slowly you will barely nick them. The threads are simply to tighten the nut, they do not seal anything.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:18 PM
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I updated that thread with a photo dump of the original pictures...
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:22 PM
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Jon, thanks a million, those pics are VERY helpful! The other parts and their specific #s are particularly helpful.
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Last edited by 88911coupe; 09-11-2017 at 07:51 PM..
Old 09-11-2017, 07:36 PM
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