Something I haven't seen covered when doing a valve adjust...
 

How do you tighten down the locking nut around the adjustment screw to a decent torque without moving the adjustment screw with it? This has been the most frustrating part of doing my valves. I adjust everything perfectly using equal parts backside and normal method, but when I tighten down the retaining bolt the screw will move--and I'm talking*barely*--but enough that the .0025 feeler won't go in anymore.<p>In short, I'm using a screwdriver to hold the screw in place while turning the bolt, but as soon as the bolt reaches what I would think is the proper torque, it moves the screw and ruins all the work I just did. What's the trick to lock down the nut and not turn the screw? And how much torque does the nut need?

just hold the screwdriver a little tighter, or back the screw off the amount that it moves when you tighten the nut. both ways work ok for me

The screw is gonna turn with the nut, so do as he says ^^^^^

more resistance on the screwdriver.

Edit - What those guys say above

Edit #2 - DOn't forget to check head stud nut torque while you are in there.

It has been covered in other posts, and if I remember, there is no scientific method to hit the four thousandths first time, every time.

I would like to try the thread pitch tool but I bet the same torque change will happen.

I just make mine a little fatter and try about three or four times per valve before I hit the right gap. I also use a dial indicator along with the feeler gauges. I don't do backside for no other reason than I can do it the "standard" way.

What was the problem with the clutch?
Bruce

What's the generally accepted torque spec on the nut? I know no one is actually putting a torque wrench to them, so is it 90 degrees past finger tight, two grunts, or what? I know they were a bear to loosen when I started the adjustment.

This is a very good question, since, as you say, nobody puts a torque wrench on those nuts. I crank them down pretty hard, but I'm not really sure what's right.

too tight and you will distort the threads and bind the nut, then they're even harder to keep the screw from turning. just good and firm is good. one small grunt. you should not have to lean on the wrench and strain to get it loose.

Don't know yet. I decided to drop the engine and trans to find out. I had never taken the engine out before so I figured it was time anyway. Now that I have it out I'm doing the valves and other normal upkeep before tackling the clutch issue. I'm very interested to know what I'm gonna find when I separate the engine and trans. I'm actually hoping the clutch fork is broken, so at least I have a solid reason as to why no amount of adjusting was working.

I think I'm good. Thanks for this, John.

I put some skateboard grip tape on a plain Sears short screwdriver. The take helps with grip even with oily hands.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313539490.jpg

I was wondering this same thing and thought that maybe if the screw and the nut are getting a little long in the tooth it would be harder to keep everything stable. Can you just replace the screw/foot and nut alone?

If you leave the feeler gauge in the gap when you adjust the screw and lock nut, you can tighten and feel the drag on the gauge. If it won't move it's too tight. If it moves freely it's too loose. Simply back up the adjustment screw to the point that when the nut is tightened, the screw moves to the point that produces a workable drag on the feeler gauge. This technique is not Porsche specific. All rockers with adjustment screws are done the same way. A little practice and you'll be fine.