Front swaybar U tabs
 

On my 72 and I think all 911's, the U tab that connects the front after market sway bars has the tabs mounted where the openings are from left to right, not front to back. If one wants to make the front bar less stiff, one moves the drop links forward, but if you move them to much they bind because of the U tabs. Are there any issues with me removing these and mounting them so the openings are front to back thus allowing the spherical joint to not bind??
Thanks

Thats what I've been doing for 30+ years,...:)

One other option would be to use some high-misalignment rod ends on the droplinks to safely accomodate the angles. I've had good luck with that solution as well.

Thanks much!

Do you have any pictures or a link?? Everything I've tried has looked to flimsy.

FK makes solid quality rod ends and their site is nice for dimensional info.

FK Rod Ends- Home Page

Do you mean like this...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313528198.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313528221.jpg

Yep.

I can't tell from the above pictures, but the little "buttons" that are used between the drop link end and the u-tab, they almost appear to have the flat part against the drop link and the "female" part towards the u-tab.

I installed the u-tabs in the orientation above, and placed the u-tabs by connecting the drop links to the sway bar end and letting them hang and seeing where the u-tab would best fit. Once you put the little "buttons" in, it takes away some of the lateral movement, to the point to when the car is fully off the ground the drop link is about an inch from the sway bar arm if disconnected.

Has anyone dealt with this?

Todd

Do you mean an inch away right or left, up or down, front to back, can you snap a pic? Did you test fit the u tabs with the car on the ground, driver seat weighted down?

The drop link is too far to the outside, up and down is not an issue. Don't have a pic handy. They fit fine if the little "shims" are not used. It binds on the inside "shim".

Todd

Does it bind when it's on the ground and are the U -tabs welded or mounted with a bolt, might have to reposition U-tab. If you remove the rod end spacers does it fit ok with out lots of rattling?
What kind of bars?

Doesn't bind when on the ground, no.

I suppose I can disconnect the drop links whenever I lift it. Thought about grinding down the top portion of the inner shim to release the binding.

Haven't tried driving it yet ;-)

Todd

If it was me, I would reposition the U tabs, but if it's ok when on the ground then test them out and have fun setting them up.

As Steve suggests, rotate the U-tab so the opening faces fore and aft. If not, the attempted workarounds to avoid running out of angular range won't work.

FWIW, the typical rod end has an angular range of about 23º, less so if a washer or an immovable object abuts it. Spacers on each side of the bearing usually provide enough clearance for normal angular movement. The orientation of your U-tabs (opening left-to-right) is probably preventing that (drop link touches the U-tab, yes?).

Connect the drop link to the control arm when the car is at normal ride height, not with the suspension unloaded. Otherwise, the two sides may be off and the sway bar will create an unwanted preload on these corners and throw off the existing corner balance.

Installation is best done with a roll-on alignment type vehicle lift (or equivalent) to fully access the underside of a vehicle at its normal ride height. Most repair shops don't have such a lift and neither do most of us. Here's one method:

Note: The following is only possible if the SB drop links are adjustable. Factory drop links don't provide individual length adjustments.

1. Measure and record the ride heights at both front wheels as they sit (floor to top of wheel well opening). Mark the tire position on the floor with tape or chalk so you can return to it. Let's assume we adjust the RF sway bar link.

2. Loosen the RF lug nuts slightly. This tire will be removed in step 4.

3. Assume the LF drop link is installed correctly (length doesn't have to be precise, but the SB arm should be more or less horizontal at rest). If it isn't, correct it at this time. Settle the suspension by rolling it back and forth, then raise the RF corner by lifting at the control arm. This minimizes camber change that will affect ride height and drop link adjustment when the vehicle is lowered. BTW, lifting under the control arm is going to be tight with a regular floor jack. A scissors jack has a lower starting lift height and will work nicely here.

4. Position another jack under the chassis as a safety backup, then remove the RF tire to expose the sway bar attachments

5. Lower the control arm jack (and b/u jack) so the RF ride height is at the exact measurement as in step 1.

6. Adjust the RF drop link and install so the bolts freely enter the rod ends and spacers, top and bottom.

7. Reverse the above to complete the install.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

It actually doesn't touch the u-tab at all. It's butting up against the spacer. With no spacer in there, everything works as expected without the spacers.

I decided on the orientation of the u-tab to not limit the front to back adjustment on the sway bar arm.

Very good setup info Sherwood.

Todd

Perhaps the incorrect spacers. The correct ones shouldn't interfere with the normal range of motion.

I'd try to minimize the possibility of the rod end moving from side to side on the bolt shank w/o the proper spacer(s). The rod end might bind at one end or the other which might limit drop link motion.

Sherwood