Is there a comprehensive list of what bolts/nuts get loctite, anti-sieze, or neither?
 

I am just looking for a list on the forum of what bolts, nuts, fasteners on the 911 get either loctite, anti-sieze, or neither. I've taken my engine and transmission out, and with them a lot of things were un-fastened. Just want to button everything back up as designed when I put them back in.<p>Does a list like that exist here? Thanks

Loctite is used specifically where a thread backing out would be catastrophic. Be advised that there are several color coded types of Loctite and you don't want to use the incorrect type. Antiseize is a good idea for any fasteners where heat or dissimilar metals can result in thread seizure and stripping. Wayne Dempsey's 911 engine book has some excellent discussions of the use of loctite and antiseize.

This is from my very poor memory, but I do believe someone did post some generic info along these lines once (Grady?).

I recall because I was doing my steering and tie-rods, and I think most of that hardware used loctite. Here is one pearl I saved: "The places where loctite is appropriate are the caliper mounting bolts and the two bolts holding the steering rack to the cross-member. ‘Blue’ is fine. Porsche installed these 'dry'."

My apologies if I am wrong as to the credit.

On an engine install, the bolts and nuts are "tight" and dont need lube or loctite.
Bruce

So would I use loctite on the CV bolts? I've seen long discussions about those, where they talk about safety wires and special washers when installing them, which makes me think you don't use loctite on those.<p>Do tie rods get loctite? I'm doing a turbo tie rod upgrade, removing the 36 year old stock ones while the car is already up on jackstands. <p>As far as anti-seize, lug nuts and spark plugs are all I've known to really use it on. But what else?<p>Lastly, what about the triple square flywheel bolts? Do those get anything?

This is one of those subjects that often can create a debate.

Steering- nothing has threadlocker on my car. There are locations in the steering system that have mechanical locking like washers (steering rack housing bolts) and cotter pins (tie rod end joint pins) but no threadlocker. That said, I see nothing wrong with using blue threadlocker to avoid vibration loosening. Red is overkill only because it's a pain to get loose- have to heat it up. That said, steering system is very important just like the brakes.

Spark plugs: majority say DON'T use antiseize. I have never had a problem w/out antiseize on the aluminum alloy heads. Antiseize is risky on spark plugs because they are a fine thread and the antiseize presents a good opportunity to overtorque and damage the threads.

CV joint bolts are done dry. Just need to make sure the female threads are clean and dry.

Flywheel bolts are typically done dry. Later 9 bolt cranks are more reliable as far as bolt torque goes. Earlier 6 bolts had some problems. But even the later 9 bolts have had loosening problems on race engines.

Caliper bolts- I found them to have copper antiseize on them in a lot of cars.

Rear shock absorber/trailing arm bolts use antiseize. Normally i'd think this is a risk because the trailing arm is alumimum alloy and fine thread. Plus the torque spec is high- 92 ft-lb I believe.

Lots of information you read says DO NOT use antiseize on wheel stud threads. However lots of people in the Porsche community use it on the threads and also on the nut seat to avoid galling the lug bores in the Fuchs wheels. I've yet to see a broken M14 Porsche stud on account of using antiseize

Antiseize is recommended on the engine support bar M12 bolts because those suckers more often than not will rust into the bar end threads. When you try to break them loose with a breaker bar or impact wrench, often the bar end will twist off.

wheels lug/nut and spark plug, I use the copper antisieze. Without antisieze, I feel like it's hair line from breaking the plugs.

For the spark plugs, I use a SMALL amount of copper antiseize, with a small amount of Lithium grease...(makes for a nice "color").......very, very little (followed this advice from Pete Z and have never had a problem),..they STAY tight,..and come out easily....

Same with the lug nuts.

Good advice within this thread....

BEST,

Doyle

just recalled that there is a thread title chemicals or something like that - might want to search that one up

The complete engine sealant thread . Henry from Supertech gives all the info :D Check link #223http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif