ignition system negative function
 

Ok...this will be my last post regarding the drama that is my heat exchanger backdate.

I've succesfully installed ALL of the bits ands pieces, and it looks damned great. So now for the startup....oh! denied! Here's the details:

1) Pulled the fuel pump relay, cranked it over until the oil pressure light went out.

2) Re-installed fuel pump relay, now car turns over, but won't start.

3) Gas smell at the tailpipe tells me I'm getting fuel.

4) I had run the battery dead because I left my hood open a crack for three weeks (dumb eh?)

5) I'd had a charger working on the car for about 3 hours prior to my startup attempt.

6) Car was turning over ok, but sort of weakly. I assume because the charger hasn't had a chance to do it's job yet.

7) I installed a new dizzy cap and rotor in the interstitial time during my exhaust job.

Naturally I hope that the car will start this evening after the charger has had a chance to do it's job. Here's a question though, in case it doesn't....

What should the resistance of the coil wire be? It's really stiff, and maybe I broke it during the cap install. Also, would a weak battery allow my car to crank, while not generating enough juice fopr a spark?

Any other word of advice or encouragement are appreciated.

:confused:

Ground
 

Check grounding strap from trans to body- even though it may look OK, if there's oxidation between strap and body or trans it may inhibit proper ignition system function.

Also, verify ground between electrical console, CDI box, coil bracket and left chain cover- this is integral with the leads from th CDI.

I had similar problem, wet plugs, no fire. I replaced the CDI ground (I have MSD 6AL) with a trans ground strap from the case to the motor mount = big sparks, nice low idle.

Good luck

Yeah Jasper, you probably just don't have enough leftover voltage to run the ignition system, since the battery is so weak. The starter is drawing it all. I bet she'll fire right up with a hot battery.

If the battery is toast, and I bet it is now, a jump from a running vehicle (preferably revved to about 2500 rpm) may be necessary. Or a new battery, of course.

Good luck! Bet ya can't wait to try the new set-up, eh?

Man oh man - that's the understatement of the week!

Thanks for the encouragement Tyson - you've said basically exactly what I wanted to hear (except the part about needing a new battery).

Hopefully we'll be seeing you again at the JWW swap meet or something.



SmileWavy

I vote for bad battery, after several weeks of deep discharge it would be heavily sulphated. I had the same symptoms after my battery became "compromised" due to overcharging by bad V regulator.

Well, I went and hunted down a new battery....found a Globelite battery that was a direct replacement for the INterstate MT-93 that was in there. A non-standard size of course. Central Auto Parts in North Van, $125Canadian - not bad I thought.

Anyway, I installed it and got a whole lot of sputtering and smoke. At first I thought I'd screwed up the firing order or something, but in the end I just needed to PUSH through the roughness, and after FILLING the garage with smoke, she's running like a top.

Turns out that I'd washed the heat exchangers with Solvent, because the donor car had leaked oil all over them. Also, I'd tried to dissolve some built up coke in the pipes with Techron a while back. I guess that a cocktail of Varsol, coke, oil, and Techron makes for an almost perfect smoke bomb.

She's running well though...real well.:D