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Join Date: Sep 2011
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Adjusting idle

I have read a few posts on this idle bounce issue I have but I can't find any info on what pinouts to jump out when setting the idle

I have a 77 911 SC that has a 83 or 84 3.2L engine that has a newer non CIS fuel injection system. I guess that's the Motronic system? I'm not really sure. Most of the time the engine runs great except when it is first started. It starts fine but I get a lot of idle bounce or hunting. Aside from the posibilities of vaccumme leaks I was told by a mechanic to lower the idle as my idle is set too high and that could cause the problem. It is currently at around 1200 RPM and should be around 850 RPM. The problem is I'm not sure how to adjust it. I was told it is done by using the hex head screw front and center on the throttle body but first you have to jump out a couple of pins on the diag port. Does anyone know what pins I need to put the jumper on. I tried a few combinations and found a couple the brought the idel up but the rest did nothing. Also when I did jump out the pins and turned the hex head idel screw it did nothing. Is that the actual adjusting screw or is it just a cap and the screw is under it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If someone has a pin out diagram for the diagnostic port that would be great. Also if you know of a good book on this injection system that would be good also. Thanks.

Old 09-18-2011, 03:56 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Washington DC
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Do some searching " yes I know the search engine
Leaves much to be desired. But I will say this
No screw is fixing your problem. Give it a day
It's Sunday the big boys will chime in soon.

It simple methodology" you need to get a bently manual
You should also read some of the stuff on Steve wongs
Site 911chips . Idle is in the EPROM
Old 09-18-2011, 04:13 PM
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I use google to search pelican- just include the word "pelican" with your search.
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1977 911S
Old 09-18-2011, 04:50 PM
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EDIT!! I fixed my 3.2 by simply jumping points B and C and then turning the idle screw under the yellow cap; needs to be pulled off to access the screw. The cap is just a cover (which I destroyed removing, but it's cheap, like 50 cents). Engine running and warm, give it a little gas now and then while adjusting however many little increments; should work fine. Got mine to about 825, it loves it at all temps. Takes a little trail and error, but is easy. See: http://911chips.com/C1INSTR.pdf ...Page 3...
Search also "adjust idle" and scroll down to 3.2 idle adjustment....

Last edited by nesslar; 09-18-2011 at 05:18 PM..
Old 09-18-2011, 05:07 PM
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That’s fantastic I really appreciate the diagram you sent me. I actually have 2 of these ports on my car. I think the one is a left over from the old engine so it might not even be connected. The car originally had a 2.7 in it. I did find that when I jumped out a couple of the pins the idle shot up. The thing is when I backed out the screw, mine had a hex head and not slotted, it did nothing to the idle. By the way do those chips really work. It looks like a fairly easy upgrade if the chip isn’t soldered in? Thanks again for your help.
Old 09-20-2011, 05:03 PM
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yes, the SW chip works very well and is a simple install. I was a little intimidated to break open the DME initially, but it's really not brain surgery. 99 out of 100 Pelicans strongly recommend upgrading your chip to the SW, including me.

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Old 09-20-2011, 08:07 PM
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