Removing frozen alternator nut
 

Anyone ever manage to remove the fan nut using that POS pulley spanner in the tool kit?

I can't get mine off. Some have suggested sticking a screwdriver into the hole, but I don't see hoe that buys much leverage.

If you mean the pulley tool, it should work just fine, at least it always has for me, both the older type with the 2 prongs sticking out perpendicular, and the newer kind with the holes on the inside of the pulley rim.

Before I bought the tool, I used to jam a piece of steel in one of the holes. I think that might be part of what contributed to my needing a new alternator last year. I wouldn't ever do it again.

This is what I have. I can't get enough leverage with it. The pulley just turns it when I try to remove the nut.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316560210.jpg

have someone strong hold it with both hands. I wouldn't use the screwdriver method.

Did exactly that. No good. Nut is too tight. I put some PB Blaster on it, and will try again in the morning. If that doesn't work, I'll try some heat.

Also, can someone tell me if the bolt by the lower pulley (indicated by the red arrow) has a nut on the back or just bolts in? I can't figure out how to get to the back, and it is interfering with sliding the belt onto the alternator pulley.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316561417.jpg

Somebody posted this a while back.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316562018.jpg

As for the nut, you may need a ratchet/socket,
and some type of torque amplifier on your ratchet handle.

A long pipe?

Good luck,

Gerry

Not familiar with that design.

Ours looks like this.

By the way, NO HEAT!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316562268.jpg

Much nicer tool. I think the other came in my tool kit.

Tried the pry bar. Couldn't keep the wrench in the hole.

Why no heat?

The tool should have a much longer handle on it. Get a new one, then put a pipe on it, and use a long breaker bar on the nut. Position the pipe and breaker bar close to one another where you are pushing the two together. That's usually a good position to be able apply a lot of torque.

Brett

Some alternator shafts (my 2 do) have a hex key hole in them. Ive found that useful when doing this activity, but ive never had to resort to breaker bars on the nut, just a 1/2 inch drive ratchet has worked for me, or if i use the hex key, the appropriate size box wrench

use an impact gun it wont hurt anything taking it off

I found this additional piece to the one above in the garage. Never knew what it was for. Think I do now. It's a sleeve that fit's over the stubby spanner.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316572959.jpg

+1 on using the impact gun.

impact gun and good tight impact socket. Make sure the gun is turning in the proper direction.

Soak it with liquid wrench or WD 40 over night first.

Need to get a 24 mm impact socket. Soaking with PB Blaster now.

I've never seen that "tool" before. It looks like a poorly made homemade substitute for the proper tool. You can buy the proper one from Pelican for I think $30. Trust me, it'll make your life a lot easier!

muster with me at the gym

Christien. I've no doubt, and will order one from Pelican. However that would take about a week, in which time I'll be in Tibet. I need to do this yesterday. I'm wondering if the tool pictured is left over from my 356 toolkit. I must have the one from my 911 toolkit somewhere. I bought the car new.

Have located the proper tools from a friend locally. Thanks Matt.

I know what you're saying - waiting for stuff to come in the mail is a pain. Count your blessing you're at least in the same country as Pelican... I'm very much of the belief in the right tool for the job, but understand that's not always an option.

In a pinch, I think the metal bar in the holes would be ok once or twice, but a screwdriver won't be strong enough - it'll just snap.

But you found the right tool anyway, so that's good.

as some have said...leverage is your friend. first time I tried this just using tool nearly tore my hand off. Added a couple of pieces of two foot pipe to the process and finally broke free. You want to make sure and not rotate the engine the wrong direction, just FYI...can cause bad things to happen.

that was my post. set the handle of the proper spanner on top of the motor mount tab, like in the picture. then all you have to do is use a socket and ratchet on the but.

I have this off. A friend lent me the proper tools. Now that I have reinstalled the belt it is too tight. I am currently troubleshooting that.

Search here on shims - you should have 6, and you move them around (inside or outside the pulley hub) to adjust tension on the belt.

2 shims inside and a continental belt usually works. 6 total.

I have a 10mm on. Fits with 4 in, 2 out. At least it does today. Make sense?

9.5mm usually takes two. 10mm, maybe 4, so check it again after running for a day or two.

Ummmm... So what worked for you, besides the proper tools? Did you just need the pulley wrench alone, or did you need to use a cheater pipe on the pulley wrench? Or, did you use the wrench against the motor mount shown in the posted pic?

Brett

I used PB Blaster a few times over about 15 hours. I got a proper spanner wrench (Pelican variety) and a 24mm 1/2" socket. No cheaters necessary.

It was very useful to position the spanner so it pressed against the engine mount.