Getting close to that time - storage questions
 

Hi all,

Unfortunately our northern winter is fast approaching and it will soon be time to put the 911 into its winter sleep.

This is the first winter that I will be storing this car and have a couple questions.

Couple bits of info, it will be stored in a non-insulated, non heated garage. It will have a car cover on it. Winter will be -40F.

So my first question, will this California car grow legs and arms, break into my house, and kick my ass for dragging it to this arctic tundra?

If not, then I can proceed with the questions. It is a cabriolet. Should I have the top Up? Down? Up but not locked *i.e., loose)? What about the rear window? Zippered in? Off? Does any of this matter?

Typically with my bikes I fill them to the top with gas and then add fuel stabilizer. Should I follow the same here?

I typically like to change oils before winter but unfortunately I will not be able to do that this year.

Any other thoughts on cold winter storage?

No expert but I'd store with the top up, stretched when it's warm, and leave it. -40F, wow, I'd take the battery out and put it in a heated area on a block of wood. Make sure you run the engine long enough for the fuel stabilizer to get through the system. Take the weight off of the tires if you can, otherwise they will go square.

Reminds me of why I live in SoCal. It might get to +28F here in the dead of winter. I live north of Los Angeles about 20 miles at about 1,500' above MSL.

We kept our 911 in an unheated barn for many years in central upstate NY, which can have brutal winters (why we are now retired in North Carolina). The car was covered and always sat on sheets of thin plywood to keep the condensation rising from the concrete floor off the car when we had warm spells, which seemed to always come in January for a while (like 40 to 50f) Without the plywood over the concrete, the bottom of the car would be literally dripping water during the warmups. We kept a battery minder in the battery all winter, the car always came through.

Any recommendations on preventing flat spots on the tires? Pump them up to full pressure?

p911dad, thanks for the tip on the plywood. So just one layer of 3/4" plywood would prevent the condensation on the bottom of the car?

Finally, I typically would run my lawnmower dry by shutting off the fuel supply while it's running. Is it worth pulling the fuel pump fuse on the 911 to accomplish the same?

I live in NY and store my cars in an unheated garage in the winter as well. I have never had an issue with any thing. I like to put in 3/4 of a tank of gas as STA-BIL fuel stabilizer. It always starts right up in the spring. Make sure to disconnect the battery. Luckily since the 911 is air cooled you dont have to worry about anti-freeze.
+1 for the plywood, i have never done it but i will be doing it this winter, moisture can be a big issue, especially if it freezes at night.

best
dave

Im in the north east (New Jersey) and also have a cab. Every year when I store it in a enclosed car trailer I do the following: Change oil and filter, inflate tires to 50 lbs. to avoid flat spots, remove battery and put on a tender, wash/wax, store with top up and latched, DO NOT UNZIP REAR WINDOW IN THE COLD...it will crack, just leave it alone and let it expand and contract with the temperature and it will be fine, cover it with a quality cover, roll the windows up but leave a slight crack to let it vent, kiss it goodbye till spring. Have done this for last 5 years with no issues, good luck.

almost forgot....fill the tank and add a little drygas to soak up any moisture that may build up in the tank.SmileWavy

I bought a carbag a couple years ago - excellent for keeping things dry and mice-free. Also helps keep any stinky storage barn odours out.

I always say I'll fill the tires, then forget. Never once had any flatspotting, and that's parking on concrete. Full tank of gas - absolutely. The gas tank is metal and anything that the air touches is susceptible to corrosion. Stabil, yes - pour it in at the gas station when you fill it up, then drive to the storage space, to ensure it gets through all the fuel system. If you use a carbag, let the car cool down completely (again, moisture). I usually let it sit a couple days. Remove the battery and store away from the car, especially if it's unheated.

That's it - the car's always started fine for me in the spring. Takes a few chugs to get the fuel through the carbs, but I've never not had it start.

Excellent posts here. Stabil, yes. Full tank, yes. If you can, get the tires off the floor; jack stands, etc. Close the doors, but leave them on the "first" click, don't shut them all the way. Lower the door windows about a quarter of an inch. Remove the car battery and put it in a warm place with a battery tender attached.

If you don't want to do any of the above, move to Bakersfield, CA. It's still 95F here, but we're only about 2-3 weeks away from the time when we take our P-cars OUT OF the garage. We get about 4" of rain a year, and winter temps range between 45F and 65F. Snow? Nope. Going to display our SC at a GEM (Golden Empire Region) PCA event (called the CA Challenge) this Saturday. Forecast high - about 85F.

OMG my Northern brothers...

No disrespect -just wondering how our brothers-in-(Porsche) arms make it through such inclement conditions. God bless you and you cars - you remind us what four seasons are really all about...

Don't worry about flat spotting the tires. Modern tires really don't have a problem with this. However, I would still inflate them up to the max. If you remember. I didn't last year with no ill effects. The tires don't have to be off the ground. The cars are made to have their weight on the springs all the time. The plywood thing is a great idea, though anywhere in Saskatchewan, I imagine you won't have much in the way of occasional melting. Until March or April, that is...

Remove the battery or use a battery tender or the like. I use a Ctek with great results. And they're not that expensive. Removing the battery is a PITA. I did that until I got the ctek - sucks.

Full tank of gas with Stabil. Put some of the Stabil in the tank, fill it up and drive five or ten minutes and shut it down until April. Don't fire it up to get the juices flowing, or anything else. Once it's done for the winter, it's done.

I don't know that much about cabs, but I DO know to not unzip the window if it's cold or freezing.

Park it with the heater levers moved all the way in to the hottest position. This will close the flapper valves so critters won't be able to get in there. And the usual steel wool in the tail pipe is a good idea. I would be tempted to leave a note on the steering wheel to remind yourself to remove it before starting if you think you might be likely to forget about it.

Mine's going away soon, as well. Normally we get a few good driving days in the weeks before, but it's not looking all that promising this year...

A Sask. winter is so cold, it's dry as a bone. Very little moisture can be contained in air at that temperature. I store my car in a much different climate that constantly deposits moisture on metal surfaces as the temperature cycles. For this reason I use a Carcoon (bag) which tends the battery and constantly moves air around the car thus minimizing condensation (and mice). I store my car for six months and I usually do what all the others have said ( full tank, Stabil, max air in tires, clean car, etc) and I also take the battery out to clean and inspect the battery box. I've done this for five seasons now and the car has (touch wood) started right up every spring with no obvious deterioration in cosmetics or mechanics over the winter. Cheers

I apologize if this has been already mentioned, but I think putting a couple mouse traps on the floor around the car would be a good idea, if you can get around to checking them at least once a week. Luckily, none of my traps have been touched, but it can hopefully prevent chewed wiring, headliner, etc...

If mice are a possibility, I would really recommend a carbag, or some sort of closed containment. I say that because when I pulled my engine a few years ago I found a ton of crap in all the crevices, including a whole bunch of fibreglass insulation around the oil cooler, which kind of defeats the purpose of an oil cooler. All the work of mice or other similar rodents looking for a warm spot for the winter.

I've always wondered about this. Shocks are designed to spend most of their time compressed. Could it not be damaging to leave them extended for long periods of time?

When I operated my shop we had occasion to leave a car on a hoist for extended periods during mechanical restoration, etc. We also had damaged cars on chassis dollies to simplify moving them. We never experienced, in 25 years, a shock damaged by "hanging" at its extended stop. That said, we have had instances when Koni shocks seized when left in their compressed position.

I'm not sure there's a correct answer for this issue, but I can say that the Bridgestone RE 750s on my SC will start to flat-spot after about 8 weeks of non-use. I must say that if I forget to move the car a little, when I drive it with flat spots it takes about 20-30 miles for the buck-board roughness to disappear.

Carbag or dryer sheets for mice. Mothballs work but stink up the car. Sticky rodent sheets around the outside.....plug the exhaust.

;);) Sounds like a lot of hassle - why don't you just fit some winter tires on cheap cookie cutter rims and keep driving it............on second thoughts your roads are bad enough in the summer without winter conditions to boot, however your summer bugs are probably harder on paint then a little gravel on the road:):)

My California import is going to get a winter experience this year........we'll see how she goes in an Edmonton winter. Just picked up some winter rims and tires.

Best advise - battery tender. I froze a battery in my Boxster a few years ago in an unheated garage. Expensive battery. Resist the temptation to start it up just to hear the engine. Put it away and start it up in the spring

Some VERY good replies here...thanks everyone. I definitely do NOT have to worry about moisture due to winter thaw...there is no such thing...MAYBE it will hit 32F for a day or 2... but not we sit comfortably in a deep freeze.

I will look into a battery tender...I actually have a couple for my motorcycles...I wonder if I can just use that or if it needs something 'bigger' ?

As for Stabilizer... think I can get away with adding some SeaFoam?

all of the above...I allways put Large doses of Decon near all tires...I figure they have to go up them to get in the car

I don't think Seafoam will work as a stabilizer and for the cost of a can or two of Stabil or similar (the stuff that Yamaha motorcycle dealers sell is supposedly rather good, that's what I'm trying this winter) I'd just buy the correct type fluid.

I'm not too sure if a car cover is that good an idea, but I assume you're talking about an indoor fabric to keep the dust off? I'd be a little concerned with air movement moving the cover and scratching the paint as a result, especially if the fabric gets stiff due to the temperature.

I'd also consider taking out the battery and putting it somewhere a little warmer. Definitely get a trickle charger, too.

Seafoam is completely different than Stabil. Stabil stops your gas from getting varnish deposits, Seafoam helps to clean out crap in your engine and fuel system. Stabil is a few bucks and readily available at any Canadian Tire - it's not like it's expensive or hard to find. The right tool for the job, and all that sort of thing...

I'm in Winnipeg, similar conditions. Last year it was stored in an un-insulated garage. Plenty of mice about. As well as stabil, mouse traps, bounce sheets and steel wool in the exhaust, I also covered the air intake with mosquito netting and zip ties. The only other thing I did was park on some 2" thick, 2 foot square expanded foam. No flat spots, although as others have said it's likely not an issue if you just blow them up. You should remove the battery and pit it in the house unless you have a battery tender. Just a few weeks to go now.

What i will do different this year is spray some kind a oil dwn the engine so as to fog the cylinders...(while running)
Then once in awhile turn the engine over by hand (once a month ?)so as to lubricate cylinder walls and change who has their valves open...

You can get Stabil and ctek battery tenders at Canadian Tire. Using a trickle charger is NOT the same thing. Even though it charges at a slow rate, if left on for an extended period of time it will over charge the battery. And even though it is often a real pain, it likely is a good idea to remove the battery from time to time to check the metal underneath for corrosion.

What did you get for tires? Are you planning on driving it even on the really cold days or just the moderate -20C days?

Ended up getting a set of used Michelin winter tires mounted on cookie cutter 7's rims. Will be just the ticket I think. I am going to use the car during the 'warmer' days - yeah up till minus 15/20.............and will probably be the nicer days with blue sky but cold enough so no slush . The winter tires will be mainly for making it up my acreage driveway more than anything else.

Having a few second thoughts................had trouble driving it tonight with a few raindrops coming down! I just hate the thought of parking it for 5 months.

I also store mine in an unheated shed along with my motorcycle and other summer toys. To keep the mice at bay I make up four small sacks using cheese cloth and fill with few moth balls, the sacks are hung in the four corners of the shed.
I change the engine oil shortly before putting the car away (gets all the contaminants out of the engine) and add stabilizer to a full tank of fuel. Pump the tires to max pressure and park the car on 1/4 inch cheap plywood. Remove the battery and place on the shelf in the basement or connect a tender, cover the car and you are good to go.

I partly understand this, but isn't oiling the cylinder walls something more essential for a cast-iron block engine? Am I missing something?

Just me...a good dose of oil will not hurt it

So do you use specific fogging oil for this?

Is fogging oil supposed to be sprayed into the air intake with the air filter removed?

I have not made up my mind what to use....But yes while running I am going to give it a dose of something