My clutch cable length...

jwanner1 · 02-28-2002, 06:42 AM

Perhaps someone might know what is happening with my clutch cable. I bought my 83 SC last year, I knew the clutch cable was bad when I bought it. The old cable was modified by using a brass natural gas compression fitting used for gas home kitchen oven/range. It had the threads end of the compression fitting ground off so it would fit in the stop bracket on the transmission to essentially make the clutch cable shorter. I just replace it with a new one and am finding that I have almost 1 3/8" of space to make up! I rebuilt the pedal cluster yesterday, made the cable connection at the pedal cluster as short as it will go, and moved the cable locking nuts as far to the end as they will go. The throwout arm looks fine, all the parts look fine! Any ideas??? Thanks!

jwanner1 · 03-01-2002, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jwanner1
Perhaps someone might know what is happening with my clutch cable. I bought my 83 SC last year, I knew the clutch cable was bad when I bought it. The old cable was modified by using a brass natural gas compression fitting used for gas home kitchen oven/range. It had the threads end of the compression fitting ground off so it would fit in the stop bracket on the transmission to essentially make the clutch cable shorter. I just replace it with a new one and am finding that I have almost 1 3/8" of space to make up! I rebuilt the pedal cluster yesterday, made the cable connection at the pedal cluster as short as it will go, and moved the cable locking nuts as far to the end as they will go. The throwout arm looks fine, all the parts look fine! Any ideas??? Thanks!

Here are pictures of the cable length and the old cable with the home made adapter... helllllp!!!

dickster · 05:55 AM

i've never done this but was thinking logically.

you might have a look and make sure the outer part of the cable is inserting correctly in the bulkhead or body work that it goes through. otherwise it could effectively shorten the cable.

long shot??

it might be total bo&^ocks but its all i can think of.

hope it helps

Jdub · 03-01-2002, 05:51 AM

I am going to hazard a guess that folks aren't replying because this seems so out of norm. A new clutch cable in a car without modifications to anything ought to fit just fine. From the sounds of it, your new cable is unable to "take up" the amount of slack that the outside of the cable (the sheath) ought to be taking up, or the cable inside is too long.

If you know that the clutch pedal is returning to exactly the right position, and you've tried to shorten the effective length of the cable, and thus lengthen the sheath at the same time, and still cannot get the cable taut enough to begin to pull the cable, then I am out of ideas.

All I can think of is:
= You have the wrong cable
= The body tube through which the cable is threaded to the front is broken/loose, or too far to the front for some reason, probably an accident, rust, or other.
= Any chance the "bucket" into which the cable threads and the sheath stops at is not of the correct length, or the sheath is getting pulled into the tube into which the cable is threaded?

Has the car had a major accident? Something that would tweak it badly? Is the transmission the correct one for your car (yeah, long shot...).

Sorry not to be of more help. I would pull the cable and look at the sheath end where it threads into the body. Any scarring around the outside might indicate it is being pulled into the tube.

John

dickster · 03-01-2002, 05:59 AM

i thought you were saying the cable was too short - dooh!!

why was the old cable modified to make it shorter???

then you may have your answer

Jdub · 03-10-2002, 01:33 PM

What was the resolution to this issue Jwanner?

Recent post showed that the horseshoe spring was "set" forward on another poster's car - same for you?

John

jwanner1 · 03-11-2002, 04:13 PM

No resolution as of yet... I was hoping to get my car back on the lift today to look again but I didn't have time. The throwout arm is right tight to the exhaust, it can't go back any further. Wayne from Pelican Parts is stumped too, he thinks my car might have been built originally with a sportamatic... The suggestions Jdub gave are very good and I will investigate them hopefully tomorrow. Thanks for keeping me in mind!! I'll keep you posted if I ever find the problem or as to my resolution. If you think of something, let me know!! Thanks again guys!

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

Looking at your picture, it looks like the fitting that the PO installed was taking up the slack on the cable.

Look to see if the sleeve that the cable goes through is anchored because if it isn't it will create more of a direct route to the transmisison from the clutch which will cause excess cable slack at one end.

Steve

Early_S_Man · 03-11-2002, 06:51 PM

Assuming you have the correct cable is risky ... have you double checked the part number from a couple of sources?

If it is the right cable, then your Bowden tube (the black plastic-coated flexible wire tube that the cable resides in between firewall and transaxle) may have suffered some amateur butchery at the hands of a buffoon ... which might explain the plumbing fittings added to the system! Both the length and preload of the Bowden tube are critical to proper clutch operation!

I am sure that ther is some SC/Carrera owner out there with engine and transaxle out of the car, currently ... HINT, HINT ... that could measure the length from forward edge of the forward nipple back tho the end of the rear threads, and post it here!

jwanner1 · 03-13-2002, 03:46 PM

O.k., I pulled the clutch cable back out and measured it, 81 1/2" or 207cm tip to tip. the part number is on the cable is 930-423-401-05, 911 clutch cable w/hooked end (1977-89) turbo clutch cable (1978-89. I inspected the firewall orifice very closely and it looks to be in factory condition. I'm starting to think about modifying the clutch cable to make it shorter... anyone??? Thanks for your thoughts guys!

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

Take a look at this pic and see if this is how your clutch assembly is set up

Steve

jwanner1 · 03-13-2002, 06:06 PM

It is set up exactly like in the picture! I'm losing my mind!!! What the f%$k is wrong with my car????

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

There is a rubber stopper which the clutch pedal rests against when at rest (not depressed). It is about 1/2 inch thick. If this is missing then that may be where your problem is. I know when I did the rebuild on my clutch assembly, mine came off (tack welded on) so I just drilled a hole in the back side and drove a screw through it.

Check it out that may be where the problem is.

Steve

jwanner1 · 03-14-2002, 05:47 AM

Nope, the rubber stop is still attached... Thanks again guys.

Jamie79SC · 03-14-2002, 07:53 AM

I hope I'm way off base...

Could your clutch fork be cracked and bending? I once replaced my clutch cable, couldn't take up enough slack, and found the reason to be the cracked fork. If so, plan on about $1,500 worth of new clutch when all is said and done...

There is a bright side. The new light weight clutch plate makes the car quicker than ever...

jwanner1 · 03-14-2002, 06:15 PM

To be honest, I wouldn't mind if that was the problem because I know how to fix that. The throwout arm is in the proper position, it's tight to the exhaust. I certainly and sincerely appreciate any and all suggestions. Thanks!

dickster · 11:55 PM

are you following the correct adjustment procedure??

post some pics of the new cable installed. both ends.

try getting the cable length (inner and outer) measured against a known good one, or at least another "new" one. new parts are not always what they should be...........

go from there! there's got to be a simple explanation

i couldn't adjust mine to the exact specs, and used up all the adjustment in the cable. at first i put it down to a stretch cable but now i suspect all the clutch components are past their best.

jwanner1 · 03-19-2002, 08:37 PM

Would someone out there have a new cable ready to install that you could measure for me before you put it in your car? I took my car off the lift and rolled it to a corner of my shop with the clutch cable out... I can't get to putting it back up for a while so I wouldn't be able to take a picture of the pedal cluster connection. I have pictures posted already of the transmission connection, the pedal cluster connection has the "yolk" on the cable screwed in completely taking up all the slack it can. I think I will have to resort to plan "B", modify the cable it's self to make it shorter. Any suggestions?

dickster · 03-20-2002, 12:45 AM

jwanner1

sorry you haven't solved this yet.
well, i can't help with the measurements, but there are only so many explanations for this (and i don't think shortening the cable is the long term answer)

1. its the wrong cable/badly made cable
2. the clutch is incorrectly adjusted
3. clutch or one/some clutch component is worn/broken/defective

i have my cable at its limits and couldn't quite carry out the factory spec adjustments at the trany end - i have put this down to worn clutch (80k??) but who knows. at least mine operates

sorry i can't be more helpful, but eliminate the above and i think you'll solve it.

good luck and keep us posted

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

I was looking at my clymer manual and the pedal adjustment free play is as follows:

Pedal Free Play Adjustment (1977 - on)

Measurement of the clutch pedal free play is no longer made at the pedal. Instead measure the distance between the adjusting bolt and positioning lever as shown in figure 2 ( that was the pic I posted) (area D). The correct clearance measurement is 0.040 - 0.043 in. Adjust, if required by loosening the locknut on the screw. Turn the screw in or out as required. After adjustment, tighten the locknut.

This may solve your problem.