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Question Deck Lid shocks - what's the trick?

I'm trying to replace the deck lid shocks on my 1988 coupe and could use some help. Other than having hands the size of a three year old, are there any tricks to getting the pins out of the shock mounts?

There is very little room, and virtually no way to use any leverage to hammer them out. I think I can get the rear (farthest from me) out, I almost had it all the way but decided to work on the front (closest to me) before I pulled it all the way out. Does anything need to be removed to get at these suckers? BTW, I was working on the drivers side.

Thanks for any tips.

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Old 03-19-2002, 04:44 PM
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It may help to have an assistant lift the tension off the decklid while you remove the pins.
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Old 03-19-2002, 04:54 PM
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I'm assuming your stock shock (s) are shot?, no lifting force? I just propped my lid up with a stick...adjusted it so there was NO force on the pins from the bracket or the shock hole, and it slid right out. I took a rough measurement, cut the stick to length, but did the fine adjusting by moving it's base fore & aft a bit...it's base resting on the sheet metal surrounding the engine.
Old 03-19-2002, 04:55 PM
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A trick I used was that once the circlip was off I lifted the hood/decklid just a little bit to take the pressure off and I was then able to push the pin out (with a hemostat on the front and my hands on the rear).

IMO, a hemostat and telescoping magnetic arm are a must for this job.

I did a search on "deck lid shocks" before I attempted this job and there was some good info out there.

The other things needed for this job are patience and perseverence!
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Old 03-19-2002, 04:55 PM
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Just a thought....If you get the pins out, that is, you didn't drop them or the retaing clip in the pit of no return by the filler pipe, here's what you do. When you put the new shocks in, tie a 12" piece of dental floss to the retaining clip and the other end to something else. This way, you can retrieve it after several attempts to install it fail. And if you're successfull, the next time you change the shocks just pull the floss and the clip comes right to you. Easier to reach and find the floss and you'll never loose the clip.
Old 03-19-2002, 05:12 PM
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All these suggestions are great -- especially the dental floss!

My only contribution is: don't put a DOUBLE shock setup on a non-whale tail rear deck.

The single new shock on each side will be fine.

The double setup will simply cause folks to work REALLY HARD to shut the lid . . . and dent the otherwise perfect deck .

Now I've got a couple of dents to get fixed . . . and a couple of extra shocks around. What a moron.

Cheers!

C.
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Old 03-19-2002, 05:26 PM
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D-OH! Thanks guys. I think it finally got thru my head...changing rear deck shock(s) is a WHOLE LOT harder on an '88 than it is on '72. My apologies...
Old 03-19-2002, 05:30 PM
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Thanks for the advice gents, keep 'em coming.

When I was trying this earlier, I had the deck lid supported by a stick so I don't "think" there was any pressure on the shocks. I still couldn't budge the pin without tapping on it with an old pair of needle nose.

I don't have a clue what a hemostat is. Also, I do have a factory installed whale tail, so I do have dual shocks.

Thanks again for the help.
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Old 03-19-2002, 05:39 PM
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A hemostat is an instrument used by dope smokers (and surgeons too, I think ) I think I used 2 when I changed my hood shocks a few weeks back. That bottom pin on the driver's side is a major pain in the butt. If you can get the pin back in in less than 30 minutes, you've got me beat! -- Curt
Old 03-19-2002, 05:43 PM
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"I don't have a clue what a hemostat is. " Just ask any MD or RN, basic is that they are mini adjustable clamps. Front end like small needle nose pliers, ass end like scissors. And they are relatively cheap...my daughter (RN) would have never just given me a pair if they weren't...(sorry Curt...I wouldn't have posted if I knew you had earlier.)

Last edited by pwd72s; 03-19-2002 at 05:49 PM..
Old 03-19-2002, 05:46 PM
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Haven't done the back yet. For the front shocks: Open hood, tie a line from hood latch to roof rafter to keep hood up and out of the way (protect paint with clean rag). Start with passenger side to practice technique and build confidence. Top clip comes out first; this takes pressure off bottom pin and allows the shock to be wiggled a bit to help reseat bottom pin through new shock. Pop bottom clip open with long shaft regular screwdriver. Remove clip the rest of the way with hemostats. Push pin through; retrieve pin with magnetic-on-a-stick. Insert new shock into place. Put pin in hemostats oriented approximately perpendicular to the hemostats. Start pin in hole, wiggle shock until pin slides in. Open hemostats and tap pin the rest of the way through. Put clip in hemostats, push it straight down to get it started on pin far enough so it stays in place. Push clip straight down with finger until it pops the rest of the way on. I did it in an unlit garage so the hardest part was getting light down the hole on the driver's side.

Looking back, if I didn't have the long (12") hemostats and the magnet-on-a-stick I wouldn't even attempt this (unless you have either a lot of time or a lot of spare clips and pins!)

Argo
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Old 03-19-2002, 06:32 PM
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Would a drug store have a pair of hemostats?
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Old 03-19-2002, 06:54 PM
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Fly fishing shop, for the hemostat's.
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Old 03-19-2002, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cary
Fly fishing shop, for the hemostat's.
Or...have an RN for a kid. But really guys, a set should be in all toolboxes. It's amazing how handy they can be from time to time.
Old 03-19-2002, 07:06 PM
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Releasing the tension on the pins is a good technique and the "prop rod" (broom handle cut to length works well). Something that works for me when removing those tiny parts that can get lost like the dirclips on the shock mount pins or the tiny nuts that hold the grille or logo in place, is to cover all the black holes by putting a bath towel over the top of the engine. Make sure it covers those part eating pits.
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Old 03-19-2002, 09:04 PM
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I found a decent selection of hemostats at the local Army/Navy surplus store. Dope smoker connection?

Alan - the dental floss trick is outstanding! Wish I'd thought of this when installing my new dash last night - many magnet fishing expeditions could have been avoided. Thanx!
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Old 03-20-2002, 05:31 AM
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Thanks for all the help Pelicaners. As usual, you came through. The tip that worked the best (for me) was lifting the hood up higher with the stick. I wasn't releasing enough tension on the shocks earlier, which in turn was preventing the pins from easily sliding out.

I only replaced the driver's side due to the fact that the shock mounting hole in one of the new shocks is too small for the pin. Go figure. I can either drill out the hole in the new shock or send it back since the deck lid is working just fine with only one new shock.

Thanks again for all the tips, you guys are great.
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Old 03-20-2002, 05:49 AM
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I had the same problem with the hole in the shock being too small. I just dressed it a bit with a round file - it only took a few passes with the file to open it enough for the pin to pass through. Easier than sending it back for a replacement.

Argo
88 Targa
Old 03-20-2002, 06:02 AM
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I just think it's great that on a board devoted to what are arguably the best engineered cars in history, we're having a serious discussion about the best kind of stick to use for these delicate jobs. I think that there should be a stick included in the factory porsche toolbox. They could call it a "multi-purpose poking and support device (I'm sure the german would be more impressive)," slap a porsche label on it, and offer it as a $250 option.
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Old 03-20-2002, 06:04 AM
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APKoas, .....After changing 6 or 7 sets of these shocks over the years, either on the trunk or deck and trying to use the magnetic thingy or the chinese cherry picker (spring grabber thingy), the simple solution of the floss makes the job less chalenging for me and now takes about 10 mins. Whe done, just tuck the floss out of the way and fagetaboutit 'til next time.

By the way, I've heard and don't know if it true, but just replacing one shock and leaving an old one in, makes the new one work a little bit harder than normal thus requiring its replacement a little bit sooner. Could be some marketing/sales ploy by the Mfg. If nothing else the old one will have to be replaced shortly and you'll have to go though this again in a little while.

Now if I cold just find a use for all these expended shocks (8) I have laying around. Do 2 bad ones make 1 good one ??????

Old 03-20-2002, 06:05 AM
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