Deathly afraid of re-installing the engine!
 

So I dropped the engine and trans for the first time back in August, by myself, with surprisingly very little issue. Some things I've done while it's been out:
<p>New clutch, pressure plate, TOB and release fork
New fuel injectors, sleeves, and o-rings
Removed, cleaned CIS, new hoses, and installed new intake boots
New oil pressure switch
New oil breather gasket
New belt
New mini starter
Valves adjusted
<p>So here's my issue: I am scared as hell to put the engine and trans back in. Taking it out seemed so easy when I think about trying to re-install it. I don't think this is one of those "Installation is reversal of removal" situations. Does anyone have any tips or pointers for re-installing the engine and transmission?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319770197.jpg

Just back the car up!!!!!

Just kidding, if you can take it out you can put it back.

You can also ask for help here.

W

Putting it back together........
 

Sit down and make a list of the steps to reinstall the engine. Try to get the steps in a reasonable order, such as: 1) lift engine into body and install motor/transmission mount bolts. 2) install the shift coupler. 3) install wiring on top of engine, etc. You can look thru Waynes book and pick out most of the steps. Then, once you have your list, just work thru it checking each step off as you go. This way, you should not miss connecting wires or plugging in vacuum lines, etc. This probably is not necessary for someone that has done the job many times, but would/should help a novice. By the way, when I put the engine/tranny back in to my SC, I raised the body high enough to roll the engine underneath and then lowered the body to a safer working height. I also used an ATV jack with a 2 ft. by 2ft piece of plywood bolted to it for added stability. Worked like a charm! Good luck with your project.

You'll do fine. Just watch the shift rod as it goes into the tunnel. Very easy to get the angles wrong and get stuck on that rod. My other "learned the hard way trick" from doing it alone, is that I have two, 3ft pieces of threaded rod that I stick through the motor mounts and into the engine mount bar to keep the rear end aligned as I raise it up to the car.
It's all about the angles though... your car is nose down and the engine is flat. Take that into account as you are jacking the engine up into the car. Watch out for that shift rod on the front of the tranny. Wait, I already said that :)

You'll be fine! Just take your time and get a friend to help out. I've always used a floor jack with the engine/trans balanced on it. Looks like it'll be much easier with that jack in the picture

it really helps to have 2 people so one can watch the trans shaft go into the opening. watch the clutch cable doesn't get caught on top of the trans. don't squish the hoses on the heater box. don't try to raise the engine high enough to attach the mounts; once it is under the bay, lower the car so you don't have to raise engine very high.

Last year, I dropped and re-installed mine by myself using an old floor jack with a plywood topped furniture dolly under the engine. I did the same as Fred... lowered the body after getting the engine to that magic point where the tranny shift shaft won't hit the floorpan and the fan won't hit the back of the car. (But then again I did not remove my bumper or valence, so my car body was really high -- too high for the old jack).

Schumicat's right... lay your clutch cable and such on the tranny bracket. The starter is really good at crushing a heater hose.

You may be surprised how easy it is.

Shawn

p.s. I am a firm believer of putting lots of blocks under the engine on each side of the jack, just in case.

Looks as though you have a nice jacking arrangement (not sure how that sounded) that
accomplished as long as you get the shift rod aligned into the tunnel correctly everything
else will pretty much line up on it own..
Also having the bumper off is good precaution to allow sufficient height for re-entry...
good luck and let us know how it goes...Bert

Don't Worry Brother HWM, Like I posted on your other thread, once you have the engine/trans under the car, lower the car onto the them so all you have to do is raise the engine a couple of inches to guide it in the tunnel, this will insure a lower angle of attack, just watch those CV joints and accelerator cable.

Since you decided to remove the heat and it's components, you will not need to worry about the heater flap hoses.

Once in the tunnel where you want it, check to make sure it is not binding on anything inside the tunnel, then raise the engine to the engine mounts, but right about 4 inches before you mate the eninge mounts, connect the fuel line, electric components and any hose that are hard to get to. Trust me when i did it the second time I found it easier take care of it with the engine partly dropped. Now mount the engine but loosely, you want to align the trans mounts not, BE VERY CAREFULL not to cross thread them, very easy to do. I had to use some C-clamps to help align the trans mounts but was easy enough and insured there was no cross threading.

Now tackle the CV's, just be methodical here and in gradient fashion torque. I used a 4'X1" dowel on the lug studs to help me hold it down as I torqued, on my post 1000 mile re-torque I asked my wifey to press the brakes.

Torque down the mounts.

Reconnect the Hoses and properly torque them as well. Refill and remember hand crack twice before restart to insure oil gets to all components.

Jim

Take your time, this is the fun part.

Oh yeah, with the partial drop, check the engine tin rubber skirt is properly align. it should be a double skirt, once goes inside the other on the outside of the engine tin for weather sealing :D

I found this out the second time around.

One little thing to do, get the engine and trans in position and before you raise it all the way, connect the wires to the starter, so much easier then doing it when the engine and trans are bolted up. The hardest part for me are the trans mounts/bolts.

I am sure some local buds in Austin can help out. If I was closer I would come over and we could knock it out toute de suite!

Did you put in a new thermostat o-ring? I'd recommend doing so while the engine is out.

Big rookie mistake to avoid: make SURE you put the ring gear on your new clutch.

As far as putting it back in - don't be afraid, taking it out for the first time is the intimidating part. Take your time and enjoy. Reconnect the starter before fully raising the drivetrain (making sure the battery is disconnected before you do this).

Double-check all drain plugs and hoses/lines before putting in fresh oil.

Try to make sure that the axle flanges, CV joints, and bolts are free of grease before reinstalling.

I find I sleep easier if I make a check list - blank piece of paper - Then cross them off one at a time.

Connect your starter with the engine dropped - but in position - makes it much easier.

take your time.

Remove that coil/
you may need that tiny bit of extra room.
I would cut that board down so it just sits under the engine so it doesn't get in the way.
tranny should be in 1st ,3rd or fifth gear so rod is not sticking out very far.
If your by yourself tie up the axles with a coat hanger so the hang high up and not in the way.
When you slide tranny rod into coupler stop for a sec hook up the speedo wires and go under and push in your two backup light switch wires and the lower ground strap.

I like the threaded rod idea (I always fight with the damn thing. Where did you find metric all thread

I always label all the connectors and wires. I've probably done this a half dozen times in the last year, and even so i find labels and photos help me get it right the first time

Getting the shift rod aligned without bending it is my biggest concern. I take that back, starting it up for the first time after I finally do get it installed. That's my biggest concern.<p>Anyway, I like the idea of lowering the car to the engine, I just wish there was a better way than the side to side 2 inches at a time method that I used to raise it enough for clearance. Is there a better lowering method than that?

it really is just reversal of removal. I have done it over 20 times. Three times alone just to fix the transmission 3 years ago.

The trick for the transmission bolts is to loosen the 4 fixing bolts on the transmission mount. This will allow it to float enough to get the two large body bolts in place. Don't forget to tighten the mount back when all is secure.

If you were able to get the engine out, you will get it back in. I think putting it back in is easier than getting it out.

jpnovavk's tip is gold.

We just installed a 2.7 in a 74 last weekend and getting those tapered end trans mount bolts threaded would have went much easier if I'd have done this.

Regarding the angle of car vs. angle of engine. We slowly lowered car, then we slowly raised engine. Did each about three times, putting trans mount bolts in first.

Easy as pie.

I've never had to use the floating tranny mount trick but it is a great idea. Also keep in mind that the tranny mount bolts are tapered. I line up the tranny 90-95%, then insert the bolts and give them a light tap with a rubber mallet. The tapered tip lines up the hole that last 5-10%.

Don't worry about bending the shift shaft, it just isn't going to happen. Complete non-issue. The only issue with the shift shaft is during removal of the drivetrain. Folks sometimes let the shaft whack the bottom of the tunnel - if you hit it hard enough, you can crack the nose cone of the tranny (still won't bend the shaft, though).

Just so I am clear, you put the trans mount bolts first, then engine mount bolts when installing? I can't remember which ones I removed first when I dropped it.

Raise the front end slowly when you have the engine under. Working with a level car is easiest, and safest, IMO.

IIRC if you loosen the 4 tranny crossmount bolts it's a bit easier to align the mount bolts, once its in just sock them back down.

OOps, I just saw jpnovak already said this!

No rule just personal preference.

I like doing the trans first. Then if the motor side gives me grief in lining up the holes, it is easier to manhandle the motor into position.

However, I start them all with just a few threads, then tighten them down all at once. For me it makes it easier to line everything up first then torque it all down.

That's a great idea sir ED! I will do that next time. I agree angle of attack is VERY important.

As far as which mounts first, I felt starting with engine then trans was easier for me. I did have to use C-clamps to align the trans mounts to insure not to cross thread.

Jim

I had the same type of fears
 

I found the problem was more state of mind then it was actual difficulty. I was terribly afraid I would somehow loose control of the engine and drop it on the ground or worse yet, on me.

To ease my mind I did the this:
I bought some 2 x 10" x 10' long boards and cut a whole heck of a lot of 18" pieces. As I jacked the engine up I kept a stack of these wood pieces under each heat exchanger. At any point I could set the engine down on the stacks of wood which were surprisingly stable and readjust the jack. When the jack reached its limit I was able to set the engine down, add some wood between the jack and the engine and get that extra 4" of lift I needed to get the engine all the way up.

Go slow, take your time. Make sure you have plenty of time to put it in and don't rush.

Its not a bad idea to have a helper or at least someone ready to dial 911 :D, but it definitely can be done by oneself without undo exertion.

Good Luck
Paul G.