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So some slightly better news. The servo motor does move in the auto controller. I left the controller set to position 10/defrost for the rest of the test.

I am now getting 12volts at the fuse holder. I have a constant 12 volts at pins 3,7, and 8. 12 volts at pin 12 with the key on RUN. When I ground pin 9, nothing happens. Supposedly when pin 9 is grounded it is supposed to activate the heat controller.

If I put 12volts to pin 4 I hear the front footwell blowers kick on. If I jump pin 7 to pin 5 the rear blower kicks on.

I found some other instructions and it said I should get 12volts at pin 11, and I do not.

So good news is, that I don't have to pull the alternator. Now what exactly do these test results mean? From my understanding, all the lines are fine to the relay/controller as all blowers work when jumped from the rear harness. Is not getting 12 volts at pin 11 and when pin 9 is grounded not turning on the blowers the issues? The diagram I found says pin 11 is to the starter solenoid, heat control pin 3. Pin 9 is starter solenoid, heat control pin 4.
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Last edited by djbrand1; 12-22-2011 at 11:56 AM..
Old 12-22-2011, 11:53 AM
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I'm not saying anything else until you tell us how you got power to the fuse block after all this time...

Pin 11 actually comes from the ignition switch before the starter/solenoid. Also, it is the "start" position of the ignition switch that it comes from, so there would be no voltage on Pin 11 after the engine starts or if the ignition is in the accessory or run (on) position.

I believe this (Pin 11) is a "defeat" circuit so the blower does not run when starting the car even if the heater is on.

Pin 2 is the control unit ground. The Bentley manual indicates this goes to a "ground screw on body", find this ground point and check it.

Do you have a Bentley manual to look at the wiring diagram? The '84-'85 diagram is different from the '86-'89 systems so be careful which diagrams you are referencing. Your last sentence above indicates the diagram you are using may be for the later model years.

edit:
One additional question...have you tried a known good control unit? I re-read all the posts and did not see any mention of that. Now that you have power to the fuses, try a good controller to check if yours is good.
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Last edited by aj88cab; 12-22-2011 at 05:32 PM..
Old 12-22-2011, 04:24 PM
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Not really sure how I ended up getting power. I disconnected all the connectors and reattached them, maybe it was a loose connection? I do have a Bentley manual, but the only other controller. I have access to would be from an 82.
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:08 AM
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OK, well at this point check that ground connection, if that doesn't help, I'd start looking around for a friendly '84-'85 Carrera owner with a know good controller to test.

I just remembered I have a controller unit somewhere that I bought used then discovered it was for the '84-'85 models. The seller sent me the correct one and told me to just keep the wrong one. I can't be sure it works since the wiring in my '88 is different. I'd be happy to send it to you. If it works...we'll call it a Christmas present...

Does yours look like the one on the right?

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Old 12-23-2011, 12:40 PM
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Heater Controler Relay.

His '84 is the same P/N as all 3.2 cars.



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Old 12-23-2011, 01:02 PM
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I did the same "research" back when I got the controller and noticed the 16A marking, but the same part number? I have just always assumed it was one of those "undocumented" Porsche changes, or it had something to do with the different schematic for the '84-'85 models. Somewhere I think I once saw the same part number also listed for a '78-'80 930...that might make more sense with the lower amp rating from an earlier car. Anyway, I don't want to get off track here...at this point, if the ground points are good, I'd put my money on a bad controller...

Happy Holidays!
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj88cab View Post
I did the same "research" back when I got the controller and noticed the 16A marking, but the same part number? I have just always assumed it was one of those "undocumented" Porsche changes, or it had something to do with the different schematic for the '84-'85 models. Somewhere I think I once saw the same part number also listed for a '78-'80 930...that might make more sense with the lower amp rating from an earlier car. Anyway, I don't want to get off track here...at this point, if the ground points are good, I'd put my money on a bad controller...

Happy Holidays!
The connections to the relay for the 84-89 seem identical as per the Bentley.

However, the 84-85 nomenclature for the relay is "Heater Control Unit Relay".

And for the 86-89 the nomenclature is "Blower Control Unit".

Did the earlier cars have footwell blowers?

If not, hence the 16A rating?

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Last edited by 86 911 Targa; 12-23-2011 at 01:40 PM..
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There are two relays in this (16A) controller just like the 25A version. So it is configured for FW Blowers. The relay for the FWB circuit is noticably smaller. The engine blower relay appears to be the same.
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'86 944NA, Sunroof Delete, Track Rat, Full Cage
'72 914 1.7 Guards Red / '02 Audi S4 Light Silver Metallic

Last edited by aj88cab; 12-23-2011 at 01:36 PM..
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Relay.

Porsche probably upgraded the relays to a higher current rating
for the later models making them compatible with the earlier model cars.

So, one size fits all.

Let's wait for the thread starter update(s).
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:58 PM
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Hey Andrew, mine does look exactly like the one on the right in your picture. With 83 year stamp, and the 16A. My car does have the footwell blowers. Sent you a PM. Thanks.
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Last edited by djbrand1; 12-29-2011 at 09:36 AM..
Old 12-29-2011, 09:29 AM
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Subscribing to this thread as i have identical situation as dj. Gotta get into mine and trace volts. I will do everything i can to get my 84's autoheat to work. I dont want to go manual. Dj, do you have your sensor between visors? I dont. Id love to get specs so i can build a suitable substitute. Any data would be helpful since that part, 911 659 105 01, is NLA. Rich
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:14 PM
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Hi,

Some data I posted on another autoheat thread.

The Porsche Manual for the SC refers to the mirror sensor as being "1.5kOhm at room temperature". Bentley gives the value as 1.9k Ohm at 20C(69F).

The heat exchanger sensor is listed by Bentley at 1.7K Ohm at 20C (69F). The Porsche Manual lists the value for the exchanger sensor at 135 Ohm at 100C (212F).

The two sensors probably use a similar thermister. The Bentley manual also states that the autoheat will go to full heat when the temp sensor is open circuit. That suggests that increase in resistance is interpreted by the system as a decrease in cabin temperature. It also suggests that you might be able to use a variable resistor in place of the temp sensor to see if there is any reaction from the autoheat system as a basic test.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
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Subscribing to this thread as i have identical situation as dj. Gotta get into mine and trace volts. I will do everything i can to get my 84's autoheat to work. I dont want to go manual. Dj, do you have your sensor between visors? I dont. Id love to get specs so i can build a suitable substitute. Any data would be helpful since that part, 911 659 105 01, is NLA. Rich
Rich, I am supposed to have the sensor between the visors. The little rubber piece is there, but haven't removed it to actually confirm. For all my testing, the autoheat controller was set to 10/defrost which is supposed to bypass the temp sensors and give you full heat. If I get full heat with the relay Andrew is sending me, then I'll worry about the temp sensors. It's nice to have that info though. I should be getting the relay any day now, so I will update everyone once I get to try it out.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:33 AM
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Yeah - I should have clarified. I have the plastic piece between the visors but a hole where (I assume) the sensor should be. So I'm GUESSING I need to build a sensor.

Jim. That's EXACTLY the data I needed. Thank you for the specs. I still haven't received my Bentley (any day now).

Now I'm wondering what the wiring interface was between the visor sensor and the wiring "harness" from the autoheat console. In the parts diagrams, it almost looks like a barrel connector (?) Can any of you guys confirm that there was a little cone-like sensor that plugged into a 90-degree barrel connector that I ASSUME is still behind my little plastic fitting pictured here:



Of course it doesn't really matter. Once I tear into this, I'm gonna make it work, but I'd like to know what my "goal" is as I want to keep it as close to stock as possible.

And I propose we stop calling those sun visors and rename them forehead taggers. I've since removed the right one too (notice left one removed, shall we say, not so gently after bashing my forehead into it one time too many). Sunglasses suffice for me. Even in TX.

- Rich
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:44 AM
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Rich,

There is a nice close up picture of the sensor in this old thread.

What's missing?

The connector looks like a miniature coaxial type. From the picture of your car it looks like it is still in place attached to the cover plate. BTW the cover plate is hard to get and a bit fragile, so be careful when you remove it.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:43 AM
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Wow, no wonder it's missing. What a terrible idea to have it sticking into the cabin like that. The thermister we just dialed up at Digikey should work and will look a hell of a lot more stock than, well, the stock one. Uh - GLEE! - Rich

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Old 01-10-2012, 05:33 AM
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My DigiKey order just arrived. If any of these thermistors work, I guess I'll be in the 911 autoheat cabin temp sensor manufacturing business for at least a little while (at $0.20/piece, it made as much sense to buy half a dozen of each as one). Of course I'll probably destroy most of them screwing around getting the system working. - Rich

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Old 01-12-2012, 10:20 AM
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Ok, found a fellow with a known working controller, swapped it in a viola, engine fan kicked on with key on run. So I know I have two bad controllers. Now to figure out how to wire up the generic bosch relays as covered in some other threads.
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:03 PM
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Glad you figured it out....one of those good news/bad news things I guess Those controllers are pricey little boxes. PM Sent.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:00 AM
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So while I was taking apart my old controller to use it's pins for the 2 relay replacement method outlined in another thread, I believe I found the failed component. At least I think I did. Everything looked great when I opened it up, but found a capacitor that seems to have messed itself.



Then desoldered it from the board.




My luck, Radio Shack does not carry these. On a mission to find a replacement capacitor and try that before destroying the controller.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:17 AM
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