faulty turn signal design????911sc
 

Hello all, is it just my luck or the place i bought my last turn signal component but it sure didnt last long before my high/low lights started to malfunction again.....seems like the high lights arc on constantly and they have to pulled back....not sure where i bought my 2nd unit but didnt last much more than 3 yrs and not sure if original owner had replaced it too but ill be buying another...any suggestions???

Have you installed a headlight relay kit?

+1 to what Joe Bob said. In my opinion you're just asking for trouble if you don't have the relays installed. Ask me how I know... I learned the hard way.

Easy $25.00 dollar fix ... JWest headlight relay kit,sold right here on Pelican !

Cheers !
Phil

if it's just the high/low part, you can adjust the push bar in the switch to fix that, most of the time. steering wheel and plastic column covers off and take a look at the brass leaves that do the switching. the "push bar" is the thicker steel piece at the top of the stack of leaves. it gets bent somewhat, from doing the porsche greeting, and then the switch won't stay securely in low beam. support the end that pivots while you tweek it straight again. sometimes a slight curve toward the brass leaves is needed. if the plastic slider block that moves with the brass leaves is melted, you will need a new switch.

Dr. Walker is writing about these copper switches in the turn signal stalk:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...417_170151.jpg

Total of 5, four as you see in the pic and one on top side.

After you correct them, +1 on the relay, the relay will also allw maximum 12volts the the head lights as a bonus for maximum light output.

Im not schooled in the headlight relay switch, what is that and why would i need one???....and thks for the responses....johnny walker im going to remove it prob tomorw and see if it can be adjusted i believe it prob can since the switch still locks back and forth...cant say that for the one i took off, it wont lock in the high beam mode....damian

thks for the nice pic Draco....damian

Search on original fix by poster WON and you will see a tutorial on how to fix it. My contribution was discovering 5 switches not just 4

As far as the relay, it will help by pass the current surge thru the stalk and the head light via the realy will draw power directly from the battery, a much cleaner draw.

forgive my ignorance, but how would the relay switch help with my problem with the column switch faultlessly engaging??? Does it have an effect somehow??

thks draco , duk , everyone....im going to look into it...

The contacts can deform at bit due to carbon build-up (pitting/swelling) in the normal config. To remove the headlamp current path AWAY from the stalk assembly switch pads and , instead, through a 30 amp relay contact will help the stalk switches to last longer as they're now being asked to provide very little current to bring in a relay..... (I've often wondered what the factory contacts were rated at,..anybody know? If she's marginal, heat becomes the enemy,..and it's downhill from there).

Electrical aside, I would assume one could experience a "mechanical" wear on these arms, as well, over a long period of time.

Both cases would alter the clearances/pressures causing faulty connectivity.

Best!

Doyle

Please, Professor Walker is the term us mortals use.

3 years mine lasted 6 months!!!! constantly replacing , will definatly look into the old bendem like beckham.
ben

Thks everyone i seemed to have fixed it for now by adjusting back the middle contact so it wouldnt be so close to the first one...works for now but who knows prob need another adjustment in a week or coming months ....thks again

ps...this worked for me cuz the inner components had broken or failed , just need a lil tweeking i gues...