Engine cleaning

[Brian993]

I was poking around in my engine compartment over the weekend and noticed it could use a serious cleaning. At this time there are 0 oil leaks, can this cause them? I own a nice pressure washer I use at work. I would like to know if you guys have any feedback on this procedure. I have read the tech article, but I would like some other opinions or methods before I approach this. I live by Murphys Law (if it can go wrong it will). What kind of cleaners do you use, should a pressure washer be used, what are the pifalls etc...

Thanks in advance!

[SK]

I used Simple Green and a scrub brush. I did not use a pressure washer, but you could.

[mm86911]

I wouldn't use a pressure washer on the engine (or anywhere else on the car). The best thing I have found is a Citrus based cleaner - excellent for grease removal - just hose it off. Stubborn deposits may require a second application with some brushing.

[Zeke]

You guys know I lurk over here, there's not enough to read at the 914 BBS. But I can second the Simple Green process. Use it full strength and let it sit. Do it on a cool day or out of the sun. Cold engine, let it sit, but keep it moist. In about 20-30 minutes, hose off with a strong stream of water being careful not to dislodge the decals. I use hot water from the spigot on the water heater. (Helps drain the sediment out of the heater which makes it last longer). Blow dry with air, vacuum or leaf blower. To really do a pro job, get some detailers' dressing (I'm not going to promote any brands) and spray on and blow some more. Towel off excess and that sucker will shine. The secret is to not use any more force than necessary to do the job. The power washer will tear things up. Don't foget the bottom of the lid!

I've used this exact proceedure on my cars all along w/o any problems being careful not to get the distributor and electricals too wet. I usually start the motor right after finishing up, but if it acts snotty, I wait untill I know everything is dry. Once or twice (OK several times) I've had to pop the dist cap off and dry with compressed air. Put a baggie over it.

Got an '89 pick up that you could eat off the engine, 175,000 mi.; and the 911 we sold had 185,000. Both cleaned this way. One last thing: I cover the body work paint, if for no other reason, to keep the wax on. An old picnic table cloth with the felt on the back is great for this. It's a 3 beer job, but I quit drinking a while back so it's not quite as fun as it used to be.

[speeder]

Pressure washer that we painters use would be WAY to much force for auto use; fine line between removing dirt/grease and removing paint, parts, etc. I have washed countless engines, (including my 911), using GUNK engine-brite, (NOT the foamy version), and coin car-wash spray. It is just right, maximum safe cold H2O pressure. Sometimes takes two trips if really dirty. I do it w/ engine warm, but let it cool for 10 min. and be careful of hot heat-exchangers.

Best way if really dirty is actual steam-cleaner at a car wash or detailer if you can find someone good. Heat does most of the work so you don't need a ton of pressure. Crud just melts and sprays off. Makes a hell of a difference if you work on your own cars, and no it will not cause oil leaks, but makes it easy to find any already there. Good luck.

[CamB]

I am sure my engine is dirtier than yours...

Some of the stuff I have cleaned needed brake parts cleaner.... Simple Green definitely didn't cut it (grease is the problem - it gets rid of oil and dirt easily).

Cam

[speeder]

If motor or chassis is REALLY dirty, most efficient way to clean is take a small paint-scraper to thick stuff first, then STEAM. Can't imagine amount of aerosol brake-cleaner you would have to use for this job, very inefficient and toxic to lungs, brain cells, air and water ecology, etc.

Simple Green is great stuff, I use it by the gallon for work, car, etc., fine if engine is a little bit dirty because you can scrub w/ suds, but worthless for heavy undercar/hood job.

[CamB]

I'm laughing.

I use Simple Green first (hot or at least warm water), then aerosol degreaser (like Gunk) for stubborn bits. Only the last few bits get the toxic brake cleaner - I don't like breathing it either.