Buying and maintining Porsche 911 1974-89

[Rulos]

Hello,

I looking into getting a Porsche 911 1974-89, a friend told me is not expensive to maintain them, but I want to know how much I need to consider, if I get the parts on-line and if I have to pay someone to exchange the parts and service it, any help I'll appreciate it!

Thanks!
Rulos

[spence88mph]

$47.50

[Hodgey]

Originally Posted by spence88mph

$47.50

Per smile.....

[Gustyones]

That's a loaded question. It depends on whether you are referring to regular scheduled maintenance or unexpected repairs of some sort. This is driven largely by how the prior owners maintained the car.
I have found that regular maintenance is not that expensive but the modifications and unexpected/unplanned repairs can add up.

On some projects i have found add frustration and cost associated with trying to remove old bolts, stuck parts, siezed items, etc.

[zimmer266]

A serious answer?

It's like home ownership, where it pays have an annual budget allotted for maintenance and unexpected items. It's not that the cars are unreliable, but that the cars are older. This year's unexpected surprise was a fuse box issue for me. But now that it is sorted, I'm confident that I'm ironing out the issues. I had to sort a window rail and electric window lift as well.

Many people here do much of their own work. There is a time and tool stocking commitment to that decision as well. If you pick up a car that has well documented maintenance, you might be able to anticipate how much additional monies would be needed in reserve.

I am more likely to farm out the work. My ownership has been less that two years, but I also have my brother's records, and some older records prior to his tenure. If you stay stock and put less than 5,000 miles per year on the vehicle, I'd guess you'll keep it under $2,000 per year, and possibly half of that if the vehicle is pretty well sorted before your purchase. If a big item comes up, then forget my estimate, because rebuilds are expensive.

This is why a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) is so important.

[steve911T]

Another serious answer!

Owning a 23+ year old car, even well taken care of or maintained is likely to be somewhat expensive. You can save a lot by DIY but if you have other people do the repairs at $80-$100/hour plus parts, the dollars go fast. I would budget about a $1000 a year if you do not DIY. Averaging this over a few years might be accurate but if the unthinkable happens, it could cost thousands. It also depends on the condition/price you pay and make sure you get a PPI. Good luck.
Steve

[McLaren-TAG]

Originally Posted by Gustyones

On some projects i have found add frustration and cost associated with trying to remove old bolts, stuck parts, siezed items, etc.

Never covered in the how to guides, the additional day spent wrestling with a bolt.

[JeremyD]

3% of the purchase price - unless you need to redo the engine or transmission.

if you pay someone to do the work - then double it to 6% of the purchase price...

[andyt11]

I have found some parts to be expensive, but if it's a spare car and you are only using it for fun, you can take your time and repair things yourself. Second hand parts can be found online as can lots of help. It doesnt have to cost a fortune.

If it was your only means of transport though and you simply have to have it repaired so you can get to work on Monday, then it could start to cost. OEM parts can be pricey, as can labour.

[Dave Colangelo]

First off I would go for the 78 and up. The 3.0 and 3.2 engines are great, the 2.7 engines have been met with some negative comments due to there magnesium cylinder heads but I dont know much about them as I own a 3.0. If you are going for an older one go for something post 76 when they started galvanizing. I think it was floor pans only in 76 and full chassis in 77 but if you go got a 911SC which is post 78 to a 911 carrera 84-89 you will have full galvanization which depending on where you live will make a big difference when it comes to rust.

Any way this question boils down to one thing in my mind. How much work are you planning on doing your self. List your mechanic skills here and we may be able to offer a better answer. For example my SC is not my daily driver so it never "needs" to work for me. And I love doing mechanical work (ium an engineer). Thus I do all the work on my car my self no matter the size of the job. This is in all honesty the only reason I can afford the car right now. Being in college does not leave you with a lot of extra money for things like a Porsche. The arts are not super expensive, and they are all available. It really comes down to labor. I usually pay less than 500$ a year in necessary parts (fan belt, filters, oil, spark plugs, things like that). The reason I say necessary parts is because I also pay for upgrades or parts for projects that dont necessarily need to be done. For example my suspension bushings are on there last legs they dont need to be replaced but they will in the next 10K miles (they are original) I have some time coming up so im doing the job now.

Basically these cars can be very inexpensive to own if you do the work yourself, dont be afraid if you are not a skilled mechanic. You will become one. I knew nothing going in to my first Porsche 5 years ago, and now I know a great deal about engines and cars in general. It is a very rewarding experience to learn the skills as well. There is a very popular book on buying 911's by Pete Zimmerman, you may want to check that out, I have never read it but i know many that have made there decisions based on that book.

Regards
Dave

[dhagood]

Originally Posted by Dave Colangelo

First off I would go for the 78 and up. The 3.0 and 3.2 engines are great, the 2.7 engines have been met with some negative comments due to there magnesium cylinder heads

there is no such thing as a "magnesium cylinder head" on any porsche. engines from 1970 through 1977 (2.2 liter, 2.4 liter, and 2.7 liter) have magnesium engine cases, which have proven to be problematic in the 2.7 liter engines. the problem stems from overheating which can cause the case to deform and studs to pull out of the case.

all 911 engines have aluminum cylinder heads.

[Dave Colangelo]

My mistake I knew some thing was magnesium in the engine some where and i knew the studs were pulled out as a result of over heating.

Regards
Dave

[McLovin]

For the first year of ownership, between $100 and $100,000.

Depending on the condition of the car you buy, and what you want to do with it.

But, as I posted in another thread, as one data point, my current 911 is an 88 Carrera, I bought it with low miles (around 70K) and in excellent original condition, and it's cost me around $1000 total in maintenance and repair in the 3 years since I've owned it.

[nick_911]

I think the most important thing as stated by many already is buying a well sorted and looked after car.
Get a ppi done and try to find a car that has had all the relevant upgrades already done which at this age most decent owners have already done.
Parts are usually no more expensive for our 911's compared to most other cars. It's the labour where you get slugged. Firstly it's finding someone that will actually work on the car and when you do they definately charge a premium because it's a Porsche.
By all the recommended porsche books and learn real quick. They are very easy cars to work on and not only will you get satisfaction but you will save yourself literally thousands by doing your own wrenching.

[El_Mecanico]

Rule of thumb is to buy the newest one you can afford. Buying a used 25 911 plus old car can add up the cost of a used 2003 4S. A set of pistons and cylinders for these cars are very expensive and so are transmission rebuilds. The local Porsche dealership charged an individual 12k to remove and install a reman transmission on his 1987 911. Now thats the bad news for cost on these cars. The good news if you buy a good one with all the records and have it checked out by a certified mechanic you will enjoy years of reliability. Most of all they are fun to drive and own. If you really want a Porsche and not get to involved in cost due to the age of the car buy a Porsche Boxster. They are a dime a dozen and reasonably priced. I work on my own cars so I figured the cost equates to someone that sends theirs to the dealership for repairs. I personally would not sell my 1986 Porsche for 20k after rebuilding the trans and engine and all the other work I have tied into it. So be-careful when you may think your getting a great deal there most likely exist an expensive repair. Just my 2 cents.

[RWebb]

1974 is an excellent year, tho it lacks the classic lines on the early cars it does not weigh much more and does not have the dreaded thermal reactors on the later cars

you can always replace the entire motor if the problems are severe and there is no way you would spend $100k

you will want to evaluate the condition with a PPI by a good mechanic who know air cooled 911s

that will tell you what is up with the car

[mickey356]

I feel the need to speak.

I did tons of research.
I found a car.
I had a PPI done.
I know how to work on cars (to a point).
I bought the newest, best car I could find. (started looking at late 60's early 70's and ended up with an 83 because the SC was as vintage I could get yet still a "reliable" car)
I've spent soooooo much money on my car I could have bought a well sorted out GT2
(Ok, some was just for fun, but a lot of money went into keeping it running)

Honestly, the folks who buy cars 25-30-35 years old and have no problems other than regular maintanence are the minority. No one will tell you these cars are "expensive" to maintain because A) expensive is relative to the owner, and B) Most of these guys do know which end of wrench to hold and that saves you 50-70% of a repair bill in labor. The reality is if you don't know how to do your own work (in which you likely don't know much about cars and therefore won't be able to tell a well sorted out car from a timebomb) or you're not rich, you will shell out more money than on a regular car. Hell, these things take 10 qts of oil for every change (and you better use Brad Penn or they'll mark that off the "Well Maintained List" and unless you have it local you have to pay to have it shipped to you.). Finding parts is fairly easy thanks to our host. Browse through and see what things cost (shocks, brake pads, oil filters, items for the CIS system, etc..) and often you can find the hard to find psrts from some one here.

A PPI will cost you $300 for a thorough one. MAKE THEM TAKE THE LOWER VALVE COVERS OFF AND CHECK FOR BROKEN HEAD STUDS (they have to drain the oil do that so you'll get to pay for your first oil change )

They are not inexpensive to maintain if you dont know how to do the work. At best they cost a little more than a normal car.

[Hugh R]

I'd recommend a Carrera, 84+ it has hydraulic chain tensioners which are a plus. On the down side it has a computer, which while great when it works is a ***** to figure out when it doesn't.

[Porchcar guy]

You also need to figure in the expense of a garage to work in & tools to work with. In
actuality, there is no correct answer ...you need to do a LOT of research, look at your finances, be honest about your mechanical abilities and buy the newest car you can afford after getting a PPI and be ready to walk away even though your wham factor sez...do it !

[awk]

The knowledge base on this forum will save you $$$ but you should budget on $1.5 - $3K per year.
With a 30 yr+ car things will need to be done...
Charging problems - Alternator / Battery / wiring / fuses
Clock & Speedo refurb
Transmission bushings for slicker gear changes
Electronic ignition to lose the old school points
Change the steering wheel to a cool Nardi or Prototipo
Upgrade the fuchs from 15's to 16's
Wiper motor that parks
Replace relays with working ones
Oil changes with decent Swepco
Replace the switches with ones that work
And so on...
ask me how I know