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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks in advance! Man its late time for bed ![]()
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WHITE 1983 911SC COUPE! |
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What you need to do is remove the air flow sensor first, the the throttle body.
After you do that, you can get to the tiny screws on the back of the air box flange. Remove all the screws and then carefully pry up the top half of the air box. If it doesn pry up then there may still be some screws holding it together. There are also some screws in the center of the box, don't forget to remove them. Once the top half is apart, then you can get to the rest of the components for removal. Pay attention when you remove everything, so that you will be able to put it back together without any problems. There is a goove in the bottom half of the box which accepts the ridge from the top half. Use a good rubber sealant to secure both half's together and reinsert the screws. Steve |
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I think it would be 'almost' impossible to swap airboxes without at least partialy dropping the engine down. This may be more effort than you wanted. There is a good tech artical here at Pelican on how to do a partial engine drop. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_partial_engine_drop/911_partial_engine_drop.htm
It will just be a huge pain to put all those vac and fuel lines back on in the blind and with little or no clearance. But I must say Ive never actualy swapped my airbox. When mine blew I took the engine out, did a rebuild and went to Weber carbs. But I was amazed at the cobweb of stuff behind the airbox. Maybe some of the pros have some techniques.... |
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i hate to tell you, but removing the engine on 80-83 SCs is the best way to do it. there's so many tubes, hoses, and electrical plugs that it's a nightmare doing it with the engine in the car, especially for someone who's never done one before. the 78-79 versions were a lot simpler without all that lambda stuff. account for every nut and washer to be sure none drop into the intake ports! check all ports with a mirror and flashlight and rotate the engine a few times to check for washer to piston interference before reinstalling the intake system.
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WHITE 1983 911SC COUPE! |
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Just use a good RTV cement. Fill the groove and place the top half on it. Make sure the upper half is in the groove all the way around. Once that's done, install the screws and carefully tighten. If you ever crack the box, epoxy is a good way to repair it.
steve |
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you didn't split the new airbox did you? that is NOT a professional repair method! CRIKEY!
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Unbolt the intake runners from the engine and remove the entire injection system.
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Michael '98 Boxster in Ocean Jade Metallic |
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You can remove and replace the entire intake system without dropping the engine. However it will take a lot of patience and a lot of wiggling the parts around to get them in and out. I did it on my '80 SC. Now that I have a garage, I would probably do a partial drop though.
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Indeed, the partial drop makes it *much* easier!
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Michael '98 Boxster in Ocean Jade Metallic |
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I agree that at least a partial drop is recommended. Partial drops are easy. Unplug electrical (takes about 15 seconds, total). You might want to unhook the shift linkage under the tunnel plate, but I found my linkage could be easily hooked up with no stress with the front of the engine (rear of the car) lowered several inches. This would GREATLY facilitate your procedure. Keep an eye on the oil lined under the car as you partially lower the engine.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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"you didn't split the new airbox did you? that is NOT a professional repair method! CRIKEY!"
![]() Fear not John! I am now in the process of dropping the entire engine and doing the job right! It needs the clean-up anyway. While I have it out I will check clutch and replace all those potential sensors and hoses that could leak and are impossible to get to otherwise. Lots of work but lots of fun!! Thanks everyone for your input!!
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