Great images and advice from John and David!
Now, I just hope I never need to use it. :)

Me too, Doug, Me too. But DO follow Otto's advice on the use of NEVER SEEZE...it's made by Bostic, use the regular grade. I bought my can from Stoddard's when placing another order, but I'm sure other vendors carry it as well. The old ounce of prevention thing...

I have had this experience on other cars as well.
My solution was to use a strange socket that has a bunch of little wires inside of it.
I don't remember where I got it...probably a swap meet somewhere...but it conforms to odd shapes easily...and it is surprising how much torque you can get on it.
I even removed one of those special lock type nuts with the odd flower pattern for a friend.
Bob

Ugh!
 

I just had one snap off on me! I wasn't so lucky as to have any hex shape left on mine. Twisted off right at the base.

Boy was I glad to see this post turn up on a search! Will try the 3/4' hole saw. I was just about to start drilling but thought I'd check Pelican first.

You guys amaze me.

John Walker knows his stuff! His posts are generally right on the money, and this situation is no different!!

Hole saw trick probably works great, but here's something easier if you have the tools. I used a hand impact wrench (read you need to hit it with a hammer, no air) to remove the flathead screws in my brake rotors, worked like a charm. I have used this tool many times to remove rounded of nuts etc. Usually I go the next size down (i.e. metric to imperial like someone suggested) tap the impact wrench and socket onto the nut and then give it a few good wacks with a ballpean hammer. Because a hand impact wrench only turns about 1/8 turn per hit it won't spin on the rounded nut and the impact sometimes loosens the threads a bit making the job even easier, top that off with the fact that every hammer blow effectively forces the socket from twisting off the nut and it's a winner in my book. If you don't own one try Sears, they're relatively inexpensive and very useful just make sure it's set to turn in the right direction. ;)

Actually I do have one of those hand impacts. Unfortunately there is no hex left to put it on. I didn't round off the hex, I snapped it clean off. All that remains of three of my lug nuts are the rounded portion that resides inside the Fuchs hole. The hex twisted off right at the base of t he lug nut. Absolutely nothing to grab onto.

antiseize on the threads.
Permatex product or use the Coppercoat product. Copper colored.
Can be purchased from any auto parts store. I use the stuff liberally.
When working with stock lug nuts, I use a thinwall 3/4" 6 point, 3/8" drive socket. It will totally contain the flats of the nut, and provide plenty of clearance for the fuchs wheel. There is plenty of strength to torque the nuts properly.

The 3/4" hole saw works well for removal as as well as some other sorts of "core drills" that can be found at your local machine shop supply store.


Good luck,
David Duffield

I just picked my car up this morning, and was told that I need to get a deep socket to use on my lug nuts. I had been using the factory lug wrench, but the mechanic showed me where the shallower lug wrench was causing damage to the lug nuts. Otherwise, he said, I risked snapping off the lug nuts. He also told me to get a new set of OEM (not aftermarket) lug nuts and update the wheel locks.

scottb,

The Stoddard T52.508.300 Forged Aluminum Lug Nut Socket is the best tool on the market for your lug nuts! It is 1/2" drive and can be used with a torque wrench.

Warren: Do you have a good source for the Stoddard socket?

Interestingly, today at the German Auto-Fest I was speaking with a wheel vendor. He swears by the nylon-lined sockets. He said they don't last as long as the aluminum sockets, but said that as a consumer I probably wouldn't be taking the wheels on and off regularly and that the nylon socket was preferable. Your thoughts?

scottb,

http://www.*************/parts.html

aluminum is the best. the nylon ones just break up. junk.